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Colin - STAPUFT

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Everything posted by Colin - STAPUFT

  1. Oh, that was a daily ritual after bumping the subs! Play the subs, check for stray tacks! The entire headliner is gone. All I have left is the fiberglass undermatting, and I am going to have to patch and strengthen it. 20 year old van- so I guess it was time anyway. The foam under the headliner just turned to dust. It wasn't even much of a chore to clean the old foam off- because it wasn't foam anymore! It wasn't really that bad taking it down, just not something that I enjoyed. The driver's side plastic runs from front all the way to the back and the passenger's side is 2 piece. So... any Ideas on designs under the fabric?
  2. Click: Edit - select all or part of song to slow, speed up, edit, etc.. Effect - you do all the business here... you can change the speed, add bass at specific frequencies, etc.... Save - as whatever file type Pretty easy- just don't over amplify something and clip the track. Clippage = blue smoke.
  3. So... I decided to tackle this tonight and into tomorrow. I have had these wonderful tacks holding up my headliner for going on 5 or 6 years now- and before I put in the wall, I figure I had better put in the headliner. This really sucks in an Astro btw.... Super Dirty... Cleaning them up... Time for a break- Home made Fig Wine FTW!!! Wine is even better when you make it yourself! So- do I put any designs or anything under the new headliner??? I don't want to go stupid with it- just something that is different but won't be dated. So- that means no big chevy symbols, no names, no brand names (heaven knows that will change at some point...) What you guys think? A touch of flame around the center console? Some stars? Nothing? It will kinda' be like a tattoo- once it is there, it isn't coming back off! Any input is appreciated. I have some patch work to do, so prob. in the morning I will do the fabric.
  4. I live off of my laptop with work and I have had every charging problem you can imagine. Just for your future references: I have had batts get weak and get a memory or won't hold a charge, the dc side of the inverter will get jacked up because that wire is so small, it gets twisted and begins to break the strands- so you are trying to run you laptop & charge the battery through just a few tiny strands so the wire gets hot, or you could get my newest problem: laptop will run off of a charged battery, and will run off of the charger- but won't run OR charge a battery if there is a battery in it. Not the battery and not the charger. Something inside the laptop is screwy. It has been a great computer other than the charging issues. That is the only thing I've had issue with my Dells.
  5. 4 McIntosh silk dome tweets. Loud and clean.
  6. There is a guy in a town about 35 minutes from me who has 2 of those but they are red. One is bone stock, and the other one has big wheels and is lifted- not as much as that one though! Maybe I should knock on his door and see if he wants to go to CA!! Different strokes for different folks I suppose....
  7. That works for me! I likes to tinker and tune anyway. I really think this is the winner. I will prob. make the port really long at first and then just cut it down if things need changing. Makes sense that it would need a longer port to help the subs load- especially if this was designed for a little car and I will be putting it in the back of an Astro with much more air in front of the enclosure. I def. looking for tha' :hairtrick:
  8. I could do those back in the day... I would peel the stickers off!
  9. That's cool! Yeah, I have more room than that box, because I can square off the back for a bit more air space (would put some 45s in there). I could always build it and see what it sounds like- Build the port a bit long and cut it if too low, extend it if too high. ...Then again, if built with the port running horizontally- and the angles in the back it gives me room for amps up top and on the flat part- with additional batteries later on bottom. Basically- it is time to start cuttin! Thanks Boon!
  10. That is def. the hotness. Doesn't the guy from Australia have a setup like that? I can't remember his username- the red truck with the DDs and gobs of power that does retarded hairtricks? That def. has the wow factor too. What if the port were turned upright instead of vertical? And how do you determine the tune? The smallest space at the back of the port would be the measured area? My wife likes that one too- it may be the chosen one.
  11. You guys are surprising me with the flat wall instead of the Bandpass Wall. Thanks for the votes though! All input is appreciated, especially before I cut the wood!
  12. That's my vote! It will be loud anyway- and it will meter good.
  13. That's my old 1605. Yeah- kinda hard to get 2 to match that one. Still not as old as my 10 year old MTX amps! LOL!
  14. Good call! That is the design somewhat- just with ports on either side. I will have plenty of room in the front to add additional wood around the center port to vary the size and depth. It will never look as good as Oki's stuff though! Geez! that man has mad skills. Gonna' take a while until I get started. I have been gutting the thing and getting the van road worthy. My next big thing is to replace the headliner front to back. It is being held up by freakin' tacks right now. I don't look forward to redoing that headliner. Among all of that, my brother in law is getting married in April, but there are a billion showers and meetings and pre-wedding parties to go to and they are 4 hours away. This thing will get done, but it won't get rolling for at least 2-3 weeks.
  15. I didn't really think about doing it the way that 12volt link has it... The way I was thinking is pretty much exactly like the Hoopty- just some smaller differences. The center area would be considered a port, but I may not have it completely open like in the Hoopty. I kinda' planned on choking the face of the box in just a bit around the "mouth" of the center opening. Not much of a port, but technically a port none the less. The 6th order would tune the lower frequency (the ports on either side box) at about 30-32 and would tune the upper (center chamber) to about 68-70. I don't know if I have the skill or nerve to build a Quasi 6th order! When I can't model it in some way and have a wet finger in the air- it scares me.
  16. I should re-word it from "style" to "type" It is going to be set up more or less like the Hoopty box, but mine would be a 6th order. So... kinda' like it but not really. Let's call the Hoopty and your PT inspiration! I knew what your vote would be PTCary. I have def. been tuned in to your build. Great work and attention to detail, sir!
  17. Ok... So I have all of this swag: 12 Cerwin-Vega Vega Series 12s. I am going to run 4 on each Hifonics Brutus, so they will get almost 400 wRMS at 1 ohm per amp. I have appx. 25 cubic feet GROSS to work with- I am going to wall my Astro just behind the middle seat. That way I still have space to carry people and stuff when I open the sliding door. My question is do I go with a flat wall that is ported- tuned to around 30 hz, or do I build a Hoopty style 6th order Bandpass? I have done some modeling (for what it is worth) in Bass Box Pro. The Red is the Ported and the Yellow is the 6th order: Normalized Amplitude Applied Power Impedance As you can see, from what I have got, it looks like the vented will play louder way lower- but we are talking whale summoning low- like sub 30hz. The 6th order has a good bit on the ported box above 30 to 60 hz- where it counts for most music I listen to. Also, the 6th order allows the subs to take more power and has much less impedance rise. All that being said- I haven't heard a 6th order before. Assuming I do this right, what will sound better? The Ported or the 6th order. I want it to get loud, but I want it to sound good at lower levels. Let me know what you guys think! I have to have this thing done by Mid June for Scrapin' the Coast in MS!
  18. I noticed that too! You def. got it sealed off good. I see much more breakage in you cars future! :hairtrick:
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