str86diesel

Nice vids bro...I've gotta say too...your no smokin vid totally looks like the old circle K off of andrea...lmao.

Well Everyone...got a call from Meade. The Hoe is back on the road!!!

No worries bro..its the least I can do. Let me know if there is anything else I can do

steve...call me in a few, lets do some over the phone troubleshooting..you got my number. EDIT: Guys, steve and I talked and we are pretty sure his pump is bad. He's already got an appointement to get it fixed He swapped the filter and verified that no fuel is coming through the line..so we are happy to know that we got the issue figured out.

Once I get over this hangover from the wifes xmas party last night , I'll see if I can't get myself off of the couch and go get some for ya.

Awesome question bro. First let me start off with Polish's comments. Here's the problem with auto makers and american drivers. Back in the day, auto trannies used to shift pretty firm (helping them put the power to the ground, as the 50's, 60's and 70's were all about speed and power, hense the hotrods). Once we started hitting the 80's and having fuel shortages, people went away from wanting power and started moving over to more fuel ecomonical cars, making luxury cars more popular. One of the marketing scams that the luxury market offered was smooth auto tranny shifting. The issue with an auto tranny is that you can't have the best of both worlds. You either have firm, efficient shifting, or you have soft, slipping shifts. So now cars all have a smoother auto shifting, because the general public wants it. Here's the problem in technical terms now. The only way to get a smooth shift on an auto tranny is to slip the clutch on the shift. So if you are already slipping your clutch with no power mods, imagine how easy it is to slip the clutch when adding more power. Due to this, anytime you start adding power, you really need to address having the tranny looked at by someone qualified to do so, whether its making sure its in adjustment, tightening the adjustment, adding new parts, or whatever. Its just that in every single vehicle I've worked on, the tranny is always the weak link. Ok, now to address the double clutch auto tranny. Actually that has been in the diesel industry for a couple of of years now, but due to the torque of diesels, I can name a couple of diesel trans shops that not only put in a double clutch pack, but also increase the size of the pack, say from a 3 pack to a 6 pack. So yes, that does help keep power to the ground, but the issue still stands that you really have to have the tranny adjusted for the power that you are putting to the ground. So if your putting out 300, the pressures of the clutch should be adjusted for say 325-350 hp. That way the tranny is most efficient in your power range. Whoo...I feel like I'm just babbling...sorry if I am. Last Question..manual tranny What do you have to do to make a manual tranny handle the power? Just add a new clutch in which can hold the power =V^ This is the sole reason why I went to a manual. When I'm adding power to my new truck now, I love the fact that I will not longer be spending hours of my time in the trans shop having adjustments made. All of that is behind me. Now, I just go had a better clutch and I'm done. Does this make sense? I can get as in depth as you wish. Kev

Do keep in account though that bigger rims does lower your gear ratio (making you slower off the line) and just mess up the accurace of your speedometer. (just a little fyi)

Nope, no batteries, he's got it going straight to the equipment, with everything fused off. Its his equipment, so I was just lending a hand.

Just look at them and point to your ears like you can't hear them...lol

My boy got the 80 amp power supply and boy it works like a champ. We got the Alpine 9813, the hifonics 4006 powering a set of mb quart 6.5s and a hifonics 6006 bridged onto a kicker 12. It isn't going to blow the walls out, but sounds pretty decent. Kev

Sorry to hear about your troubles mang..... our thoughts are with your family....Stay positive brutha.

I'm actually downloading the service manual right now. you can find copies over at http://www.hemitruckclub.com/ I'll get you the pages and we'll see what we can't do. Kev EDIT: Here's the page from the service manual http://www.rockiesjeans.com/temp/throttlebody.pdf (nevermind the url, its one of my test urls)

Nice.....sounds like we need a show and tell section.

nah man..just been around the block a couple of times BTW, where's the blown up picture of that avatar...damn! Is that the wife?

RFkickin - First off, I gotta ask. If you go out to the flattest, straightest road you can find and from a dead stop, put the hammer down. I mean put your foot through the floor. What are your shift points for every single gear? Exluding final drive? I'm guessing you have a 4 speed (with OD) 42re trans. Can you do two runs for me. First, lockout od, what are your shift points for: 1-2= 2-3= 3rd-lockup= Then with OD engaged, what is your 1-2= 2-3= 3-lockup= unlock-4= 4-lockup= The easiest way to adjust shift points is by doing the following. When you pop your hood, you'll have a roundish looking plastic box with 2-3 plastic rivets, this assembly will be connected to the throttle body assembly (mine was on the driver side). When you pull the cover off of this plastic box, there will be a cable inside of it, with a retaining clip on it. Before you do ANYTHING, mark where the cable is connected!! This cable is actually how you adjust your shift points (its called a kickdown cable, or also called a throttle valve cable). I'll see if I can't get you a picture of it, plus some info on which way the cable goes. I'm about 98% positive, that if you pull the cable out, it will increase the rpm of your shift point. Which means in your case, you'd want to push the cable in. But for the case of speed, you want your shift point before redline and right at the point where your power starts to hit the peak of the power band. Kev EDIT: I went to go take a pic for you, spacing that I just swapped out for a manual, so I can't get you a pic without visiting a dealer. Ok, I just flipped open my service manual, if you have a manual its on page 21-288 and it is as I thought, as you pull the cable, your shift points will increase in rpms, but only adjust 1mm at a time (Yes, I am serious, 1mm at a time). PM me if you want me to scan some prints from my service manual for you. Kev

Ya'll are makin me want to go buy a 360 :'(

Sorry for the confusion guys, I had AC on the brain trying to figure out how to just throw a step down transformer on the existing 110, but you guys are totally on board. That ain't gonna fly, as its AC/DC and I'd have to have a Power supply in which could change to direct current. My brain was on shutdown and I couldn't figure out as why why when I'd search power inverters, I'd get AC/DC and couldn't find DC/AC. I'll go throw them urls on his email and let him take it from there. Thanks!

Sorry to hear about your loss man...she sure was a nice car.

The 1606 has dual 80's, so I'd fuse it off around 200 to be safe

Here's how it goes, your dealership can not directly void your warranty for swapping out parts. They always threaten shit like that, but: #1) if you don't tell them that you upgraded your alternator, they will not know. They are not going to purposely search your vehicle for non factory parts when you take it in for warranty work, unless you give them reason to do so. #2) unless swapping out the alternator, which is not covered under the factory warranty, causes some type of damage, to parts that are under warranty, then the dealer will not pay to fix the problem. Bottom line, your vehicle warranty is only as good as your dealer and if they feel like working that day. Kev EDIT: Their is a federal legislature that backs up what I am saying above, it is called the Magnuson-Moss act.

One of my buds wants to throw a car stereo and 2 hifonics amps (I believe he's got a txi4006 and a txi6006) that he's got laying around in his garage, but we can't seem to find a power inverter big enough. I'd guess 50 - 75 amps should be plenty. Does anyone have any connects on where to get one? Thanks kev

I read another post that your located in CO. Where abouts? I'm actually 20miles north of Denver. If your in CO, it might be easier to see your ride and show and do some OBD's, so that you know what its potential is.

So with age, your vehicle is losing HP? I'm confused. You need to keep in mind that adding HP to a vehicle is not just plugging in upgrades. All power from the motor is distributed through the trans, the driveline, the diff, then to the wheels. All parts need to be looked at when upgrading power. Not just the motor. See my point?

but you've still go the same issue. It was not built for that kind of power. You need to address the weak link before you start working on the core of the power. If you do not, you tranny will give our very quickly and the cost to fix it will be alot higher than fixing it now.

Syko...any word on the Bronc? It seems like the guys on here really know there stuff and are leading you in the right direction. Thanks everyone for the great troubleshooting advice