str86diesel

Any Muffler shop should have these.

I'm not dogg'n on HJC helmets as I have one in the garage as a beater, but what sucks about them is that they are HEAVY. Comparing my Arai to my HJC, my Arai is literally about 1 - 1.5 lbs lighter, there is a huge difference in weight and you have to take that weight in consideration of a high side accident. On a high side you are thrown from the bike, so all of that weight turns into force which pulls your upper body thus having the chance of causing more bodily damage. That helmet will do great for learning the bike, but as you start riding harder and harder...seriously take this into consideration. Kev

X2!!!!

Yes, you will have no problems. What I reccomend though, is make sure you drive your car around and get your existing oil nice and hot (as contaminants stick to hot oil better), then when you get home, let your car cool down for a good 30-60 minutes, then change your oil. Kev

Changing a fuel pump is easy and is not a big deal (pending on the car). Do wear latex gloves and make sure you clamp the fuel lines before and after the pump (if your pump is not in the fuel tank), and be prepared to get fuel all over. Where people get scared in dealing with fuel pumps is that they never disconnect the battery and when they pull the pump, they realize that there are power wires going to the pump...and well we all know electrical sparks and fuel don't mix. Unplug the battery, clamp the fuel lines, replace the existing pump, unclamp the fuel lines, hook the battery back up and whoola. Before changing your pump, have you happened to change your fuel filter? If your filter is clogged, this would explain why the pump can't hold the pressure, as it is working too hard. Kev

SV650's are da bomb... I love sport'n those things around town, great power, lots of torque and tons of fun. Just be careful. Take your time in learning the bike and as Burrito said...ALWAYS, wear your gear. Get your self a good helmet and jacket thats suitable for your climate with crush pads. You'll hear me preach this a lot in the motorcycle world....Don't go cheap on a helmet!!!! Look at some of the major brands, Arai, Shoei..etc and suck it up and pay the $700 price. Good helmets are expensive for a reason and after all, we are talking about protection a brain protector. Congrats on the bike. Kev

Guys...this is a FALSE statement. Truckers have been doing it for years. Has no one here ever heard of "Synthetic Blend" oil? This is typically a 50/50 of synthetic and conventional oil. YES it is ok to switch between the two oils. http://wiki.answers.com/Q/If_you_use_a_syn...onventional_oil http://www.autocarepronews.com/default.asp...p;id=86055& Myth 3: You can’t switch between conventional oil and synthetic oil. Switching between synthetic and conventional oil will not cause any harm to engines. Synthetic oils and conventional oils are formulated to help protect your emission system, including oxygen sensors and catalytic converters. http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/pr....asp?product=19 Is it okay to mix synthetics and conventional oils? Some of the first synthetics offered were formulated with high levels of ester that were incompatible with conventional oils. Today's modern synthetics are designed to be compatible with these conventional mineral oils. So, if you have synthetic oil in your car and would like to top-off with conventional oil, that's okay. SynPower is fully compatible with all conventional motor oils, as well as other leading synthetic oils. http://www.castrol.com/castrol/iframe.do?c...ntentId=7027529 Can I switch between a synthetic and a conventional oil? It is a common myth that you cannot go back to a conventional motor oil after using a synthetic. All of Castrol's oils are fully compatible with one another, and there is no cause for concern if you choose to switch from conventional to synthetic or vice versa. Another common myth is that you cannot switch from a conventional oil to a synthetic oil without first flushing your engine. If you currently use conventional oil, you do not have to flush your engine before you switch to Castrol SYNTEC.

With the quality of today's oils, Yes you can switch between conventional to Synthetic and or back to conventional and have no problems. Synthetic oil has many advantages, but dollar for dollar, the only real advantage of switching to Synthetic is for extended drain intervals. As far as what is the best oil...that is all preference. The standards are so high for oil today because of the demand, that they are all pretty comparable. Use what is readily available to you. Me personally, I use valvoline (this is what Cummins reccomends and their shop is about 2 miles away) for conventional and Amsoil for synthetic (only cause I'm an Amsoil Dealer).

Congrats Meade.....I'll definately be tip'n some back this weekend for ya

Putt'n down 2 shots of Grey Goose right now 1 for my never forgotten brutha Danny and 1 for the rest of my fall'n sohabs during the rough times.

The easiest way to tell if the clutch is fried is that when it is engaged it will slip. If you have no slip, than its just out of adjustment.

I'm on the clock 24x7 and in the office over 100 hours a week I'm part of a team of a whopping 2 people in which supports all of our global sites

To be honest with you, without having a service manual for a duramax, i'm not sure if they will give you back a trouble code on which one is bad. When i've worked on fords in the past, the only way that I knew how to determine the bad one was by pulling them all out and inspecing them. Usually when one goes bad the others will follow soon, so I've always just replaced them all. I'm doin good..same ole same ole. How you doin? did the doc finally release you to work?

Check the main fuse in the distribution block (main fuse box) on your car. Usually when you get a really big spark like that, this fuse is the first to go. If you pop open that big black fuse box, right where the battery cables come in, there will be a 100+ amp fuse right on top.

There are plenty of chips on the market, the issue is that they are all geared towards Horsepower and the issue with HP is that it takes additional fuel to make. The only way to conserve fuel is to cut back the timing of the pump or cut back on HP, thus not needing as much fuel. The problem with diesels is that typically no matter how you drive them, they typically always get about the same mileage. I've been after a way to conseve fuel on my truck as well. I'm tired of paying the current prices like many others and to be honest with you, the only item that I have found works is using the cruise control as often as possible. My truck has gone from 17.5 to 18.2 by just doing this...lol I'll keep my eye open for you and see what I can find.

I couldn't resist on that one..you know i'm just mess'n with ya.

Carefull what ya'll say....we being watched by the 5-0 j/k brutha.

Read my edit above. I wouldn't release all of the pressure, but I would definately release enough to get it back into the safe zone. When your compressor is on, is it leaking oil? As stated in my first post, i'd take it to a professional and have it inspected.

Typically if you have pressure like that in the lower on the lower pressure side, it means that the system has too much fluid, as coolant is installed on the low side. EDIT: 4. Close the valve so no more refrigerant escapes, then quickly connect the other end of the service hose to the LOW pressure service fitting on the A/C system. CAUTION: DO NOT connect a can of refrigerant to the HIGH side service fitting. The operating pressure inside the A/C system when it is running may exceed the burst strength of the can, causing the can to explode! This should be impossible to do because the service hose for recharging the A/C system will only fit the smaller LOW pressure service fitting. Even so, you should be aware of the danger. http://www.aa1car.com/library/ac_recharging.htm

sounds like your AC is overfilled. I'd take it to a professional and have them inspect it.

Whichever plugs you get, make sure you get them in the same temperature range that you have now. The temperature of plugs is mainly based on 2 factors, compression and the octane of fuel that the car requires. But for the Record..a real motor doesn't require plugs

Dayummm...Bill got BUSTED..lol

The Buell's are nice..but they are definately not a sport bike if that is what you are looking for. They are v-twin motors and pack much more torque than a sportbike and lack the top end. I totally like the look of the Buell's but will never own one. They had major problems when they first came out with leaking motors and such...i'm not sure if that ever got cleaned up, as I haven't followed them much. Definatley take it for a test ride before purchasing it.

Cause they are a pain in the ass to move into place with all of the equipment installed

My chi's do the same thing..its what the vets call a reverse sneeze. It's a genetic thing typically found in smaller dogs. It usually happens when the dog gets excited and their windpipe closes, in which causes the dog to go into a form of an asthma attack, as they are trying to re-allign their windpipe.