philrab

That is awesome looking, very clean. Steve, you feel like adopting a couple other "kids"?

Was kinda wondering what caused that. Were those the brackets originally for the shocks, and just weren't built to handle the full load of the vehicle? Or all the weight from the audio in the back? Kinda a sobering moment in any case.

Love the fact that you never half ass anything, everything ALWAYS looks clean and well thought out, never thrown together. Your "making it work" looks better than most people's "neurotically planned out for weeks".

GTFO with that. Post in the appropriate section.

SMH, you don't listen very well.

Gotta know something about it to make a judgement. This'll help though: 1. Outside dimensions. Also need to know if any or all faces of the box are double layered. 2. Need to know the port dimensions, and also if any of the faces of the port share a common wall with the box (ie, is one of the port's four sides made by the outside box panel) That'll at least let us look at what your gross/net airspace is and figure out the port area and tuning. Without those four bits of info no intelligent conversation can be had about whether or not that box will do shit for an SA12.

Well, spit out the box specs and perhaps we can give a comment. All I know so far is "strange box". Net airspace, port area, tuning frequency.

Budget? Are you doing the install?

Thanks for updating my info, and for taking ownership of this.

Thanks. That's the answer I was looking for haha. In other words, Someone validated his opinion, now he's off to clip and blame SMDForums.

Curious how many of these little improvements are destined for the rest of the SA line. So far, I love my SA12, and I'll likely be a Sundown convert after running one.

Am I the only one that's aroused?

I always giggle when someone tries to critique Steve's work. Not saying you can't always learn something new (sure even Steve would admit that) but the average keyboard warrior on FB doesn't know enough car audio to lace up Steve's shoes.

I like the fact that Steve's son is putting in the work himself, instead of having Daddy do it for him. It'll mean so much more to him that way. Tuned in for this for sure.

Damn, I need a bigger car now.

Somebody's neighbors are gonna be pissed when those roll out. Love how you guys keep pushing the product line and not getting lazy.

Gonna be a little hard without knowing the maximum dimensions....

No prob. Just follow the provided instructions step by step and you should be in good shape.

Like I said, deck power for me capped at 25, through the RCA's/amps I maxed out clean.

My DD1 on my Kenwood Excelon does the same thing, every notch on the volume knob the clip light blinks really quick then turns off. It would illuminate HARD at 25/35 on deck power, RCA's read through the amps were clean all the way to 35.

Also curious what tone you're using, -5 vs -10. Some prefer to set with the 0db tone for safety's sake.

the chest primarily by the nipple area, the sternum area and the belly, particularly the sides nearest the ribs. Some spots are unbearable, some are like nothing....this one was a 4 out of 10 on the pain scale. Not bad at all. But i did stop for a double crown-coke with the wife at a bar right before we showed up I can concur on the ribs, that shit feels like you're being stabbed with an ice pick. Very top of the shoulder in the nape of the neck (right by that bunch of nerves) hurts like crazy too. I used to do 4 hour sessions in the chair and fall asleep cause I apparently have a high pain tolerance (or at least I did when I was in the Army). That lettering I got on my ribs had the tattoo guy worried I was going to punch his lights out. Very uncomfortable. Steve, just the artwork I can see in those pics is awesome man. Top notch work.

Yeah, I'm planning on a round of Damplifier through the back hatch and all four doors, can't hurt. As far as hunting down rattles in the hatch, I'll just have to seal the car up and crawl back there (easier said than done, I'm 5'11" 240 lbs, it'll be a squeeze that would make a cockroad proud.) As far as the doors, I find most of the rattle seams to be coming from around the speakers, which is probably those silly plastic 6x9 - 6.5" brackets from Scosche flexing. I'll try a line of silicone RTV to kind of glue them to the speakers/the brackets to the doors, and if that doesn't work and room allows I'll just cut a set out of 3/4" MDF and call it good. I did find the source of two of my rattles: my wife left her plastic toll tag in my passenger front door, and my daughter had dropped a pacifier into the cupholder in the passenger rear door. Pulled those out, cranked it up, no more weird rattles only at certain freqs. SMDH.

I'm running comps front coaxials rear, have an 8" ported now but building a bigger enclosure for an SA12. I figure if I already have rattles now, it's gonna get worse with a bigger sub and more power (currently at 4 ohms, will run at 2 in the near future.) Any other opinions?

This is probably a ridiculous question, but I searched and can't find an answer. I'm looking at getting a Damplifier B-stock bulk pack in the near future from Second Skin, and doing as much of my car as humanly possible. At least the hatch, spare tire well, and all four doors. What I'm primarily frustrated by is panel rattles on my interior (door panels and hatch trim on the inside all rattling at certain freqs high volume.) The question is should I be applying the deadener to the inside of the plastic panels, or to the sheet metal/inner door structure if I'm trying to kill panel rattle? Any other suggestions besides Damplifier, I'm open to suggestion. I really want to get all these rattles in the doors and hatch under control, cause they are frustrating the shit out of me.