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About 1gggman1

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  • Birthday 03/21/1967

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    Car Audio, automotive mechanics and cycling

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  1. When I had my CAB amp die on me it was doing something similar... the subs were moving wildly like it was trying to play some death note WAAYYY below tuning.
  2. I 'd check to see if your port is intact internally... If your subs are still moving, maybe a terminal on box blew out? Broken box?
  3. My EVL's do the same when I play DJSNT or some boosted stuff... I'm clippin' I'm sure because I've got to try hard to get them to smell on studio recordings. My power is probably just under 1000 per sub and that's less than rated... but if I clip them... I'll kill them... just don"t slag your coils... turn it down a hair... Hey, maybe that stinky smell is a good thing? Seriously... If it's that offensive you'll be sure to be aware of the issue! A $350 sub is NOT one I'd want to burn up... $$$
  4. Those CAb amps will certainly do the job... Yes, I've had some issues " possibly caused by me"... but warrantied with no issues and I'm running them at 2 ohm each into EVL 12's in a small box tuned to 28 hz or so... it doesn't make water ripple in China like some systems do, but I'm happy for now... I'm sure I'll tear it all apart again eventually... LOL ! I'd recommend this amp to anyone who is tryin' to save a buck!... this was when I ran 3 12's @ 2.66 strapped... still have same amp rack... This is the current setup... tuned to 28 or so... each amp loaded at 2 ohm...sounds good to me!
  5. Sounds good, I guess I was overthinking it... thanks!
  6. I am considering adding a third battery in the rear of the vehicle, how can I do this as I am now running 2 lead acid group 75's in the engine compartment and my single Alt has only one output? I'd like to have this third AGM battery for the audio system only, but I am not certain how to do this correctly. Do I need to run an Isolator on the dedicated charge wire for the third battery, maybe a charging relay instead or am I way off base here? I thank you in advance for any advice.
  7. I did run the amp at 1ohm ...got another woofer, then went to .67.. then upgraded all 3 to EVL Skar and screwed up because I ordered dual 4's and did not account for the lower impedance when strapped. I realized this after they arrived and the car was all in pieces. I knew that .33 was never going to happen so I never even tried and ran it at 2.66 strapped. My mental acuity really shows when I placed my order... I had a really bad stroke a year ago... this build is therapeutic and essentially a large part of my physical rehab to regain my motor skills... but the mental acuity is still a bitch sometimes. These amps were soldiering on like champs, really powerful and no problems... until one day recently. I'm not going to say anything negative about these amps or agree with any good or bad opinions at any point... Its is possible that I caused the failure, but in my defense, I've never had to mount any amp as carefully as I'm being advised to do. Well I guess I've learned something here... it's a whole different ballgame nowadays with the newer gear... it goes lower,louder and that translates to more vibration. And thanks to all for your advice.
  8. Possibly the first box I had when I first got the amp did the damage... when I did my rebuild is when i noticed the board had moved in the heatsink... Live and learn, I guess... any Ideas on a 3K that is good into 1 ohm that is reasonably priced but well built?
  9. They got back tome quickly this AM and I shipped it off... I might change to a single amp now, we'll see. The things I hear about this brand are making me nervous... hell, mine only lasted 8 months. Lots of power for sure but it is not doin' me any good right now. Any suggestions for a reasonably priced true 3K into 1 ohm?
  10. The board is shifting in the heatsink!
  11. I suppose I could put a center brace under the amp rack and isolate the amps with rubber bushings as well... this should help...right? It's already attached to the box firmly at the top and sides, you can see this in the pics. Does anyone think all this extra bracing and isolation is necessary? It's only at around 2500 watts or so at 2.66 ohms.
  12. Yes, sorta... the amp rack is 1.25" from the actual box to allow for the wire runs. I was hoping that this would insulate it from the worst of the vibrations. What do you think... should it be sufficient?
  13. One of my CAB amps is inoperative, I'm running 2 strapped at 2.66 ohm and my older amp... Bought in August 2016... is cutting out with a weird scratchy sound. If I slam the door of the car it cuts back on briefly the repeats the problem. It's still under warranty so I don't want to break the seal to see whats up. The amp appears to have the board shifted in the heatsink about 3/16" one way it had been like this for some time now and I had no problems... what do you think has caused this? I am not going to fix the amp myself... I'm just wondering what can be the possible cause?
  14. I haven't even tested it... I bought the budget option... ebay $135... It's a larger case and probably overrated but one hell of an improvement over the stock alt... Takes power to make power they all say... I'm almost embarrassed because I already knew this... tryin' to save a buck by keepin' the stock alt was idiotic on my part... If you get a BIG single alt ... Singer,Mechman ... etc... you should be fine.