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Found 130 results

  1. Hey guys I'm finally doing videos and updates of all the things I've been doing to my car over the last few years. I stumbled into the world of car audio a little over a year ago so im still learning. Its nice to have a community of intelligent people that I can bounce some ideas off. Let me know what you think! Teaser Video:
  2. Hey everyone, currently in the market for some new subs for daily use. Looking at either one level 5 15 on a 3.5k, or 2 xl elite 12’s on a 2k each. what would be better in your opinion, and why? thank you
  3. Remember the Bucket o' Bass series? Its on Steve Meades channel. In the video he uses four DC Audio Level ones. I decided it was a good idea and built the box and used those subs. My box design is dead near-perfect, my amp has plenty of power, and the subs are high quality. My only problem is during the test bump, I blew one of the subs! I don't know how. The subwoofers were NOT reaching anywhere near xmax, even on the extreme lows. The subs weren't even really being pushed. They were slightly over powered, but I didn't even turn the volume up that far. It was at 9 tonight. I just don't understand what I did wrong. I'm super new to this, but I'm pretty sure I did everything right. Help me! Shit I'm using: QCA4000d: 2000w rms Quantum Audio Amp. (4) DC Audio Level 1 12s Homemade enclosure 01' silverado
  4. No, it's not a porn title... Long time since I've posted. About 8 years. Life hit hard and I'm just getting back on my feet and into some car audio again. So I've owned small Craigslist set ups over the past few years and I'm really wanting to finally just build and buy my own. I did a temporary cheap set up but am ready to plan a real one. I'm currently running a MOFO 10" powered by a planet audio trq3000. Probably 800 rms at most. Amp will be upgraded to a better quality amp. But that's not where I'm stuck. Where I'm stuck is finding the perfect 10". My box is currently at 2 cu ft with a 4" aero at 32 hz. My goal is to find a 10" that's better quality. I know 12s, 15s, and 18s would be better for lows but with the space I have, small is better and I like to be a little different. I'd like to stay around $200 for a 10" but may save another $100 if it's well worth it. Staying around 1k Watts rms and a sub that likes it low. I have a few brands in interested in but with being out for so long, idk what's what anymore. I'd be willing to build a new box too but can't get too big. Here's a few 10s I had picked out Skar evl-10 Seven SS1000 Massive summoxl 10 AB xfl 10 AB TNT 10 Dark audio DKI 10 PSI series 2 10" (with boosters) NEP advanced 10" Soundqubed HDS3 10 Thank you all! Feels good to be back into car audio.
  5. Hi! New here! So I have just ordered this amplifier (don't bash it or anything, I am satisfied with the purchase and the amp's performance isn't in question) I currently have two Alpine Type-R 2013 SWR-12D2 12" subwoofers. They are 2ohm DVC. I ordered this amp http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67935_Hifonics-BRX2000.1D.html Hifonics BRX2000.1D Now, the question or concern that I have is getting these subs wired into the amp for a final load of 2ohms. Normally, this would be easy as there are many diagrams showing how this can be done. What I cannot find is for this amp in particular. It has -/- and +/+ right next to each other in that order where the speaker output terminals are. How exactly do I go about wiring these? I'm a visual learner, so if anyone could draw me a labeled diagram with MS Paint that'd work perfect. Thanks in advance!
  6. i am soon to purchase 3 type r 10's the new ones that run 1000 watts rms so please help me pair an amp or or amps to these subs and any other helpful information would be accepted as well. (please do not troll me i am 16 and on my 2nd system)
  7. I have recently started my build and am in the asthetics stages, i will be redoing my headliner, making fiberglass door panels and doing all my electrical. I am still undecided on what subwoofers to install, i have a 2003 tahoe with the third row of seats removed so i dont think that room is an issuefor the box size. I am thinking 2 15"s and i really like both the Fi.BL and the Audioque HDC315. I want to get loud and would like to keep the price around 350$ a woofer. I also know there are a lot of DC fans on here but i have never researched there products. if you have any input on which one you suggest or what you like from experience that would be much appreciated. I am 18 and this is my first major build and its on my daily driver car so the subs need to be able to play day in and day out. thanks.
  8. anyone know of any grills that will fit a DC audio 12" level 3?
  9. This will be my first post here on the site. Im currently running the American bass xfl 12" subs in a q bomb pro box off a hifonics brz 2400.1 with a red top under the hood in a 95 Avalon. So I need help designing a box where my subs face the rear but my port is facing the cab. I want the port in the center bc I want it blowing through the "arm rest hole" of the back seat. I will be posting a few drawing of what I have drawn up. no measurements yet, just ideas im playing with. This box I've designed is an L shaped ported box with the port in the back. what do you guys think??? will it work?? *******The blue represents the air flow. I also drew braces in the back....
  10. Selling 2 DC Audio M2 Xl 18's Rated @ "2200 Watts rms" Both have just been reconed and have never been mounted or seen power. With D1 coils, blue Carbon Fiber dust caps, upgraded AR cone, 1 extra stiff spider (5 stiff spiders total) and Direct leads. I will put the white DC logo sticker on them if you want. $880 shipped for the pair *Remember these are not stock XL's They have many upgrades.
  11. Hey, I'm buying 2 jl 13w6's and 2 audiopipe 1800 watt amps (750 at 4 ohms). i was wondering if this buy is gonna be loud and sound good for the price. Thank you for all helpful replies.
  12. Hey guys I had a question about car audio builds and I figured what a better place to ask it then a forum dedicated to car audio and all that fun stuff. I just got rid of 2 12" Pioneers because I wanted to upgrade my system. I am looking for something within the $250-$400 price range as a whole. I drive a 1999 Lincoln Town Car, so the trunk has adequate space for a big set of speakers. I have a couple ideas of maybe what I want but i'm not sure which one would sound the loudest for the price. I was looking and I found a couple different setups I like, I'm not sure if I'm allowed to post links or not but for my sake I will not unless notified I can. I want to get a 15" DVC Sub and A monoblock amp. Any suggestions? If I'm allowed to post links please let me know so I can show you what setups I was going to look into buying.
  13. Which brand is better? a guy at work says audiobahn is better then Orion and that Orion is shit. so i gave him a demo and now he doesnt think they are shit but still thinks audiobahn is better. what do you guys think?
  14. Need some help, I can't seem to get winisd to cooperate, joe x helped me last time and I love the box, I can do small hair tricks off of 2-10" ab xfl @2200 rms in a mustang so here is what I have to work with in my daily driver 97 2 dr s-10 blazer 2-15 orion xtr154d dvc wired to 2ohm sub specs are fs:24.5 vas:4.377 ft3 qms:12.044 qes:0.51 qts:0.495 re:7.20 z:4 xmass:12.075 rms:750 speaker diplacment:0.145 ft3 mounting depth:8.54 in each sub has it own identical amp at around 600rms @ 2ohm should the box be divided because of this? ther're going into the back of a 2dr blazer the room I have is 37" wide 22" deep 19" tall subs up / port back trying to tune somewhat low, trying to make the subs breath also I'm not keeping these subs for too long, maybe through summer if they last, will be upgrading at some point ANY help would be great, I can cut and build, just not the best with the math, Thank you
  15. ok so my set up is i have 4 gauge wire running to my trunk area and have a second battery running 2 ken wood 1800w monoblock class d amps. 4 kicker 12cvrs and 4 gauge grounding the amps 80amp inline fuses(3. one from front battery, one to each amp from second battery). everything has been running fantastic until today my inline fuse to one of the amps blew so i replaced it, then the fuse in the amp blew, i replaced it lol, then the inline popped again. idk what the problem is with it but ive checked the power wires and ground and there is nothing wrong with them everything seems to be fine. so if anyone has had this problem or has a general idea how to fix this please let me know. i would greatly appreciate it
  16. I need help i need to know what to put my eq settings at to max my subs ability. i know my amp sucks and i need to get a 1000 watt but for now wat should i put the settings to on my pioneer head unit. bass boost? sub woofer controls, hpf? again i have a kenwood 5 channel pushing 150 watts rms to each kicker which can handle 300 rms. please help and tell me how high i can turn them up. ive already blown my stock subs but my door speakers still work. PLEASE HELP asap much appreciated
  17. so a friend of mine is moving and he had a couple extra subs that were just going to go in the trash as they were slowly dying. the visonic needed reconing and the diamond sub had a blown coil so here is how the video went
  18. i have an 01 tahoe with 4 rockford p3 12s. they sound good but i really want something that can hit the lows REALLY well. i have to rockford p1000x1bd amps. the birth sheet says they put out almost 1400 rms each. So basically im looking for the best sub around that power rating that truly excels on the lower end. enclosure size doesn't matter. sub size and price don't matter. i was thinking about 15s because i listen to a lot of rock and metal in edition to rap and stuff and i have heard that 18s have a hard time keeping up with the fast bass drum of metal music. maybe that's a load of crap i don't know. so feel free to school me on that as well. any suggestions are welcome.
  19. Just getting back into a build again after 20 years out of the big game. I have had everyday stuff 4-10's in a king ranch and 2 15's in an escalade but I just bought a 1995 Chevey SWB truck and I want to built a truck like back in the day. I'm going with 4 T2-D2 12's by rockford and want the best box I can get in the bed of the truck. This is a regular cab truck, want to port through the back wall. Going to run a T-1500dbcp to each sub. Is this too much for these subs or should I go to a different sub combo. I have a budget but still looking for the best I can do. any and all suggestions are wwelcome and I can't wait to buy my stuff next week and get started. I'm building a competition ride, I had an old friend that is still in thegame tell me I did not have it anymore and we have to prove hiim wrong. Here is what I'm thinking of for the system: 4-T1500 dbcp 2-T1000-4 AD 4-T2-D2 12's 2-P3s-8's 2-sets of Focal 6.5 anniversary editons with tweets 1- set of Focal 4" 1-3sixty.3 6-batteries, looking for help here on what kind 1- 270 Amp Altenator. please anyand all help is much apreciated.
  20. So just to state this is not a VS thread. I just want to know what the advantages or disadvantages of say running 2 12s that are 1k rms ea over say a single 12 at 2k rms or even a single 15 at 2k rms
  21. When i am listing to music and the bass drops heavy sometimes the subs stop... then i change the song and they come back on.. this is while im driving Maybe i have a loose wire somewhere? any ideas
  22. Sup guys, First off, I apologize if this is in the wrong forum section. I couldn't decide where it fit best, but I knew it wasn't SQ or Ground pounders so here's the deal: My friend is going to be getting his car soon. He does have a job, so I don't have to scamper around looking for crap equipment, but I'm still on an ultra tight budget. Basically I'm looking for equipment that is from good companies but that won't break the bank. Here's what I'm thinking so far: Sub: 1 12" C2 Audio Threatcon 2 (the one with minor cosmetic flaws is 110 dollars) Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-150MP (65 bucks) wire: Knu 4 gauge wiring kit (27 dollars) and 6 ft of knu 8 gauge (3 dollars) with a knu 1x4-2x8 distribution block (10 dollars) The part I've been having trouble with are door speakers and an amp. Since the budget is so limited, we are focusing on the front-stage only. His brother has a cadence 5 channel amp laying around that we will use to power whatever door speakers (hence the distribution block) but I think it'd be best to use a seperate amp for the sub itself. As far as speakers I've seen, RE makes some decent looking cheap components / coaxials, and Cadence makes some that look ok too. What else looks good? I don't want to spend more than 70 for a pair. As far as amps, I've looked at a couple. The alpine mrp m500 does 500rms into 2 ohms. You can get it for about 125 on amazon. The other one that I like is the Sony XM-ZZr3301. I would usually avoid sony at all costs, but this one is Cea certified so it should do the 600rms into 2 ohms that it is rated for. It's 100 bucks on sonicelectronix. So what do you guys think? What would be some other good options? I don't want to spend more than 125 for the amp, and I'd like it to be in that 500-700 watt range. Thanks alot!
  23. Hey guys I need help on how to set my gains on my amps with my multimeter. I have a planet audio ac1600.4 for mids n highs and a planet audio ac1000.2 on my subs. (Budget build). I know the formula is ( the square root of ohms x rms power) I just don't know if I use the rms power of the amp or the speakers on the amp. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks
  24. I just bought 2 12" Pioneer sub TS-W309D2 from Best Buy on sale for $40 each thinking it was a good deal (was it? lol). it's a 400w rms 2ohms 1400 peak sub and I'm having a hard time deciding which amp to get so i can get the best out of them, im new at this trying to build a decent system so if someone can shine some knowledge on me i would really appreciate it. thanks in advance
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