Quiet

From my understanding, correct me if I'm wrong, Isobaric enclosures are used when you don't have a lot of room to work with. For instance, in a single cab pick up, if you wanted to have a 18" in there, you obviously wouldn't have enough room for the enclosure. So you build a box 1/2 the size and make it isobaric, as to get the equivilent output of 1 18 with full box volume. Yup. Coupling the drivers doubles the moving mass, and in turn does reduce the size of the enclosure. This design requires double the power for almost the same output... you lose a little in the coupling effect. Generally speaking, Isobaric loading is more for SQ than SPL. Isobaric face to face is a great way to overcome irregularities in linearity in subwoofers by making the irregularities cancel each other out, and having so much coil vs so little cone area makes for excellent transients cone control. Sometimes you can fit larger subs in areas you'd normally have to go smaller because of the smaller enclosures... Isobaric motor to face just seems goofy as hell to me. just my .02

I was gonna say DDZ but now it looks like i'm nuthugging. BTW what's with all these vs threads I see lately? Rule repealed?

Email sent, Jon! Don't forget to add shipping to TX for the quote! EDIT: Thank you! where the hell are my manners?

Find a reputable 4 gauge wire. I ran 8 gauge on 300 watts and get more voltage drop than I like. I say reputable, because on the really cheap stuff the jacket is just as thick but there's less wire inside. You will find sometimes a 4 gauge that is thinner than a decent 8 gauge, no kidding. I'd trust the Stinger kit at Walmart over some cheap AudioPipe wire unless I measured it myself with calipers.

I'm having serious reservations about the port length variations... but if you really wanted to do that, I would suggest adding the same slant to the other end of the port to match. That should get rid of any issues with the port length variances. Maybe. I wonder if Ray would chime in on this thread...

Sub'd and join'd. Thinking already of something trick I can do with these... Thank you, sir!

for simplicity sake, I'd say look for a passive crossover network. Passive xover hooks up after the amp and splits the frequency ranges to your speakers. Conversely, an active crossover splits the signal bands before it gets to your amplifiers, and you need one amplifier for each speaker. EDIT: but if you already got the amps, then use 'em!

I'm thinking just for the subs. I don't think for the engineering effort you'd get much running TL for the woofers. I'd consider using electronic crossovers with multiple amplifiers, or just one amp and get a passive xover network. Mids and tweeters dont' really need an enclosure.

so a t-line would be ideal for use with a subwoofer and a woofer but not with a mid or full range speaker? "and" meaning both in the same enclosure? I wouldn't unless the mids were the "sealed back" type. As a general rule, you shouldn't use two different type drivers to reproduce the same range of music. Doubly so for the same enclosure. Typically you can use a TL for a full range, like the Tang Band or Dayton Point Source drivers. Using a TL on these will help you get the most out of the low end when compared to a ported or sealed enclosure.

TL applies to the bass and sub bass range. Parts express has a TLine kit for home that uses two 5 1/4" mids and a tweeter...

Loss leader keeps you in business

If that target were a burglar, there would be no chest left to find a heart in. Hollow points don't leave much left. In either case, I'm sure it's effective.

You're not going to lose enough to make it noticeable, as long as you use stainless steel bolts at least 1/4" (8 to 10mm), and solder your terminals. The ease of using bolts gives you more flexibility in wiring your subs,especially if you have dual voice coil subwoofers. If you want something more elegant, try these http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1247 although I don't know if they ship to your country, maybe you can find something like this locally. Stay away from terminal cups. Good Luck!

That's right.

Yeah, but she actually did put atleast some work into it... It's not like she just picked up her car from the Best Buy install bay... I wish my wife was as into audio as much as she is! IJS Good Luck Chodette!

Haha! my brother used to turn wrenches in Florida, he's ASE and all that, but his boss decided to start flipping Golf cars and he makes a lot more money doing it. They do all sorts of trick stuff, rims, stereos, electric beer coolers, hydraulics, you name it. I'm all tuned in for this one!

From what I'm given to understand, all a higher preout voltage will do for you is lower the noise floor since the amplifier doesn't have to be as sensitive. Higher voltage head units give a stronger signal out. As far as losing power, no. That's why you have a gain knob. So you can set the amplifier to match the deck. /thread

I am now an educated man in the field of de-clipping music. And I'd consider Timbaland a producer, but not a recording engineer. I've never seen any proof he knows where in a studio to properly place a mic, however he is absolutely bad ass with a drum machine.

Post vids when you build it! I loves me a good T-Line!

When I said CD, I was thinking along the lines of a CD album that an actual recording engineer put his hands on. Anything I'd ever compete with (If I ever decide to compete) I'd make sure it was from an original source, not mp3 or some mix tape. Mix tapes are notoriously dirty. However, I do get what you're saying. I was thinking along the same lines, that you'd have to have some kind of filter to do the work. Meh, I'll try it out sometime, but I usually buy used CDs online for dirt cheap and rip them to FLAC. My ears can't take mp3s for too long. EDIT: BTW good to know about that. Didn't really know if such a filter existed. I haven't moved away from Cool Edit Pro yet (showing my age?)

So how do you apply that to a whole track? how does it sound? and how do you actually do that? move each sample manually or is there a filter you apply? That seems like a lot of work for less than half a second... if a song is 5 minutes long it seems to me that it'd be easier to find a cleaner original. Is my logic flawed?

hey, did they ever fix the Matthews bridge? Last time I drove over it it was raining and I about had a goddamn heart attack...

I was born in Largo and grew up in Gainesville... Home of the original USAmps I remember hanging out in the shop where they were made before I was old enough to drive. The same shop had the original Orion and Crunch gear. Lived in Florida 29 years until moving to Texas. Sucks now that they legalized bass there. All I miss now are the shows and comps. You couldn't avoid comps in Florida but I can't get to one less than 3 hours from me here in TX.

you cant fix it. Read my post ^

Depends on the Qms and Qts of the sub. Some will dip down pretty low below tuning but the tuning itself controls the movement of the sub at the tuning frequency. Below tuning, the sub tends to unload. Port area, enclosure volume, cabin gain and Qts/Qms can all affect how low you can go below tuning. In the most general sense, Tuning Higher = more SPL above tuning, less low end Tuning Lower = Less SPL above tuning, subs reach deeper notes. Maybe not so much in the middle, but a little space off the closed end of the line can help with loading...