1point21gigawatts

Sell me one of them scv7500s.

Just don’t use a bass knob. Tune your amp to where it needs to be without distorting and be done with it. I’ve never used a bass knob. I never have to turn my bass down short of turning the head unit volume down.

Dude, that’s a 8 year old thread. There’s no need for that. LOL!

Or you could spend more money on 2 evl’s and get one of them amps. The evl’s are good subwoofers too. It’ll be the same thing, you’ll just spend more money that you don’t have to. SA subwoofers are known to be tanks and can take abuse for real. Either subwoofers you pick, you will be happy.

Both them subwoofers can handle about the same exact rms. Just get another SA. You can put 1500 rms on one SA, easy. 2000 rms on one SA if you know what you’re doing. Just get another SA 12 and run both of them on a taramps smart 3 or a sundown sfb 3000d or a Skar rp 3500.1d. If I had to pick out of them 3, I would pick the taramps smart 3 because of it putting out the same rms at 1ohm and 2ohms, so when impedance rise occurs, that feature will help a lot. Make sure you set the gains correctly with little to no clipping.

That is the only reason a regular guy needs a bass knob. I forgot about the family man bass set up and needing to turn the bass down. You’re welcome! Glad I could help.

They have them on amazon too. Bass knobs are kinda pointless though. https://www.amazon.com/SAE-R-Sundown-Remote-Control-Amplifiers/dp/B017HVVF26

Keep your bass boost at 0. Because bass boost creates distortion which is the main thing that blows subwoofers. Nobody uses bass boost that knows car audio. So a bass knob is kinda pointless unless your competing and can control bass boost for quick burps. I’ve never used a bass knob.

It’s unneeded and nobody really uses bass knobs. I don’t. But here’s a link for one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SAE-R-SUNDOWN-AUDIO-BASS-BOOST-AMP-REMOTE-CONTROL-FOR-SAE-SERIES-AMPLIFIERS-NEW/401019607325?hash=item5d5ea1991d:g:Y4YAAOSwPe1T5UpE

I wanted it be 1point21gigawatts, not 1.21gigawatts. Can you make it that please?

Can you change my name to 1point21gigawatts please? Forgot to put the point. thank you dude!

Never mind on the red letters, I just found out that takes a while. But what’s up with letting me add a period after the first 1 in my screen name?

Because I don’t wanna just make a new account. That would be lame.

@meade916 is their anyway I can add a . to my screen name and make it what it’s suppose to be 1.21gigawatts instead of 121gigawatts? I made a typo. Plus is their any way I can change the color of the letters to red? That would be dope?

The SA line can take 1500 rms after rise all day

Closer to the hatch door without being closer than the width of the port the better but not closure to the widow facing up the better. Because sound waves bounce off surfaces and if they bounce off the direct back of the hatch they will bounce forward creating a good and hard hitting sound. If they bounce off the window they will the bounce towards the hatch floor then back up towards the front which creates more sound wave travel, thus less bass and worse sound.

I looked at the box specs and pictures of a Scion tC cargo hatch area.

I looked into it and face the subs and port towards the hatch for sure.

Have it firing towards the hatch. If the width of the port is 4” then the enclosure must be at least 4” from the hatch for good air flow. If not, which I think you will have enough room to have it firing towards the hatch, then have it firing upwards towards the window. But leave that as a last resort. You will get more spl if you have the enclosure firing towards the hatch. Even if you’re an inch or so shy of making clearance then still keep it facing towards the hatch. Towards the hatch will always generate the most SPL.

I would never have a port firing upward unless it was a last resort and I was pressed for space and had no other choice. So no, never have the port firing up. If the back seats in your car pull down to allow access to your trunk then have the subs and port firing back towards the front seats. If the seats don’t pull down then have the subs and port firing forwards towards the hatch of the trunk.

And I don’t think the frequency will change that drastically. The frequency change will be minimal. The only way to take out displacement variables is to invert the subwoofers and change the polarity of the subwoofers by wiring positive as if it were negative and negative as if it were positive. Or if you invert your subs you can reverse the phase instead, 180. Never change the polarity and reverse the phase. Do one or the other. Changing polarity would be my choice. But to be honest with you, it’s best to keep the subs regular loss a little bit of airspace because of displacement and gain a little bit of frequency rise because of displacement. You will not hear any difference like you think you will. It won’t be audibly noticeable, even to audiophiles. Very minimal differences.

There’s no way around it.