raytard

lost mine today, its been a trooper so far, but after a bit of abuse from 18's it finally gave way and my domelights...which not only broke the covers and the mounts, but now turn on and off on some strobelight shit on some notes safelite has some crazy stronger than glass epoxy that will put it back on, but that just means the next weak link will fail, and it wouldnt be new to see a crack in the windshield or even a chip taken out with it i think mine is just going to be riding shotgun for now, i'd rather have it next to me than have my windshield break

wall it with 2 18's and 10kw that would be good

thats worth like 200spl's

you all have boners for non-mainstream companies /thread how many of you have tried, or even heard, pioneer 8102spl's? no lie they kick the shit out of every other 15inch sub i've ever heard. What makes this site great is that these companies that dont have millions to spendon advertising have us to do it for them, for free, and we all get hyped about it because it is something unique. Even riding on the dc bandwagon I still see maybe one other person at a car show with DC subs, but dozens with mmats, kickers, and alpines. There is a fanboy for every company out there.

so i'm following a bandwagon because I went out on a limb and tried some dc's? was there a kicker bandwagon too? did I miss the jbl one or was I just in time? it may be whats hot right now, but you cant just say "these 12 brands are all anyone is running because they think its cool', or I'm going to come back and say "everyone is driving a gm, chrysler group, or japanese car these days"

so yes, you need a 16v alt to charge your pile, and either another 12v one to run your car (along with an entirely separate electrical system) or a high amperage sepdown module to step 16 to 12 for the vehicle

i've mounted the punch series amps in like cargo holds before (p400-4, p300-1, p500-1bd) and havnt had an issue. The power though, cant say the same. Had a customer with a t600-2 and a t600-4 and they would constantly overheat being mounted in the trunk of a 350z. retuned and all was well. It seems like they work real well until you hit that certain level where they just will overheat and overheat and overheat again

sometimes you just notice the db decrease...I knew when a single coil of my dvc cvr's blew back in the day because it didnt seem as loud, since the one woofer was now 4ohm instead of 2

play a 60hz test tone at a decent volume and use a strobe light set at 60 hz, it should make them appear to stop moving at a certain position (out, or in, or somewhere in the middle, but it should trick your eye into seeing it not move, kinda like a timing belt light) theoretically the blown one should be at a different degree phase, or not moving at all(which I assume isnt the case)

not many woofer out there that will take 1500rms at 28hz and not break a sweat, , and still have punch, and be able to play guitar, rusty did some work on these things must admit though, atleast from my experience, the btl's are pretty close, the sound is definately different, with the dc's having a smoother, deeper, more authoritative bass, and the btl's having a more violent and brutal hit, but that couldve just been boxes

i like em, theyre a little louder than my 8's 8g is a bitch to get into the speaker terminals, and normal woodscrews arent enough to mount them (the heads slide right through the holes) so I had to find and use 2.5in cabinet screws, and then push them through the foam overlap cuz the holes arent pre-drilled, basically i never spent so long trying to put in subwoofers but shit was it worth it, I cant get the smelly, or bottom em out, or distort them. They're begging for more power even though its literally broken my doors and shakes my car enough to make me concerned

you should be fine so long as the box doesnt flex if you can honestly look at it and say to yourself "yea, that definately wont shake whatsoever", you're good, otherwise find an alternative (under the seats, headliner, etc) I ran into the same issue, and ended up double baffling the sides where the amps were (placed along where the port is so it was braced already) and along the double baffled rear. I was confident no matter how loud it was or how high it was turned up, that part would never move

looks like an ib or something....

google it boston sr60 for speakers boston spg555 for subs what more do u wanna know?

something decent under hood, like biggest kinetik you can fit, and the biggest bat you can fit in the back (hc2400/pm3100) dont wuss out on it, if youre going to put in all that work and time and money into getting the equipment, might as well make it work right

do like 16 sets of boston sr60's hell yea and like 4 spg555's, 18's arent cool anymore, oval subs ftw

lvl 4xl's ftw 2 15's should take that amp without too much hassle

if the subs is up, and i'm assuming filling that hole you cut, do a port up or forward, I dont think enough air will get moving to let the port be all it can be

word, like a 96ish? where they didnt have the wiring kit? but whats the plan? 6th order through the back deck with 2 15's?

are you copying me!? j/k, im interested to see what you're doing, and pm me if you got a question about the car, i've been all through mine and cut it all apart and such, nice to see someone else with some balls (and the same car, lol)

the spg is a beast it takes 1krms like a champ and has excursion like i've only seen on hcca's, but plays some great ass sq if you want it to and the coil is field replaceable with like 6 allen keys did i mention it works in like a 1 cube box? I love the thing, it was my plan b if I couldnt bring myself to lose the backseat

sub woofers are usually better suited to play low, but there are a lot of 10 inch mids out there in the form of PA equipment that works fine in cars, hell, they even have up to 21 inch midbasses.

at the end of the day he's running a business and wants you to buy what he has, not someone else's stuff or he just doesnt know dc, and is likening it to all the other non-name-brand bullshit that people bring through his doors to be installed. ugh...thats reminding me of the spx subs everyone is getting from autozone or wherever...

lookin good its usually advised to actually use fiberglass in fiberglass pods though, not just cotton and resin, a t-shirt soaked in resin is just asking to be cracked by midbass or a wandering shoe, a layer or two of glass would make it strong enough to stand on.

he's trying to sell you on memphis, had you bought them and not been on this forum you would never know any better. I havnt heard both in a similar install so I wont pass an opinion. The M's arent bad by any means, I just dont see 2 10's outperforming 12's on similar power and spec boxes...maybe 12's to 12's