raytard

ive used deck screws if I can find em otherwise its the normal drywall screws i have kicking around most companies will give you screws, some like mtx will give you sweet screws (like the 95 series beefy silver allen key ones) t-nuts are a step above though

ive personally only done it on maybe 5 cars, 3 of which was to eliminate ground noise (i think it was a camry, a suzuki aerio, and some other cheaper unibody imports) its a lot of extra work and materials to use if you dont have a need for it (fix ground noise or need every last fraction of a volt possible)

some cars dont have a "frame" per se, some unibody cars just suck balls for chassis ground. people like meade who run 1300a of alternators and 10,000cca of battery, the lower resistance afforded by extra runs of power/ground from front to back gives you a bit of voltage (like .1-.4 extra volts, which probably gets him like 1000watts extra) and keeps everything working together better.

My cousin has a 400ex raced out, i shit myself on that, its dumb fast, and still small enough to throw around a bit, I loved it. I hate to make comparisons because I dont ride much, but it kept up with a raptor 660 on the streets and chased a banshee through the woods. the raptor is something else though, but every time i've ridden one offroad I felt like i couldnt like push it, it was too fast and powerful, and riding at the limits is half the fun.

the fuse is there to protect the batteries a 180 would theoretically blow with a 2200rms amp, atleast once the back batt was fully drained. The hc600 is good for ~1000 watts as a helper batt, if you're going to run 2k+watts get some bigazz batteries, it will draw a ton of current

whip audio has some of the loudest stuff ive EVER heard that being said, they sound pretty ....eh.... in person, its like a PA system not car audio, its dumb loud though, no sq or staging, but very very loud. The last time I heard them, it was 4 8's, 4 6.5's, and 8 of the tweeters I have in my car now, tw-66 or something is the model. It was painful if you got within 20 feet.

+[batt]-===CHASSIS | | +[rear batt]-===CHASSIS |_________| +[amplifier]- there, updated diagram, hope it helps and yes, + to + to +, -'s to -s or ground (which is negative by definition), its called parallel, it keeps everything at a constant voltage. http://www.bcae1.com/ read through that site if youre going to be doing car audio stuff by yourself, it gives alot of the basics, terminology and formulas you use with electronics/acoustics/car audio

[bat] +....- |.....| +....- [amp] k? the positive to positive, the negative to negative, with wires of a proper gauge run 0g from the front battery positive to the rear battery positive, run the rear battery negative to either a good chassis ground or the front batt negative (and do the big 3) chassis ground is 10x easier

the best part? if you're a comcast customer and write in a complaint they're taking 10$ off your bill, or giving you a rebate, or something like that. apparantly people dont like a little schlong in their family programming.

finkster, please told me you noticed the dog sex in your avatar it kinda ruins the dancing, lol

Im in Sigma Alpha Epsilon keep at your studying, while I was pledging we had "library hours" 5 days a week, 3 hours a night. My gpa want from like a 3.7 to a 3.3, so no biggie. and be thankful you only have 5 weeks, mine was almost 8, and Alpha Phi Alpha goes for nearly the whole semester. just remember, pledging is the greatest thing you would never do again.

try a different source for kicks and giggles, a 3.5mini jack to rca cable if you have one, and hook it to an ipod and see what happens. (both directly to the amp, and from the rca's behind the radio, just to narrow it down to definately being the h/u) some companies diode isolate the rca ground to chassis for some strange retarded ass reason, and if something happens like you pull rca's while power is connected and the prong touches ground, poof, no more rca ground (pioneer is notorious for it, iirc panasonic did it too on some of their h/u's, screens mostly)

im learning more and more that kicker doesnt like low tune most cvr boxes ive seen are 40-43hz, kicker prefabs are like 42 or something, imo at 28hz you're wasting alot of space on a port and lowering output, try for 34 atleast. should make a lil noise=)

ive never heard it called a tard bar before... my buddy runs a cage practically on his truck, front and rear bumper guards(brush/grill/light pushbar monstrosity in the front, rear light guards, side nerf bars he's totaled 3 cars so far, and the worse that happened to him is a scratch on his hood and the light guard got bent (by the b pillar of a rav 4, i made it through the c and d pillar fine apparantly, lol, he rear ended some ass who stopped short for a dead racoon in the road and proceded to push his hatch well into the second row) good luck getting a mirror, is the old one slavagable? if the glass is broken, aid auto or similar places sells self adhesive car specific mirrors, saved me like 180$ when i broke my durango mirror offroading

honestly the reason i asked this question is because it was LOUDER under tuning freq than at or above it, which seemed just so utterly wrong to me i had to ask whats up. turns out when my girl was carrying the amp from my room to the garage for me, she basically had her finger on the knob for the DBO, or dynamic bass optimization control of the amp (fancy jbl bass boost with attenuation point) it had like 12db of boost a like 25 hz so, turned that junk off, sounds much more normal now, still plays very low, but now is peaking more around the 43ish hz i was expecting, and sooo much smoother, volume is very much more constant

i think aznboi is right on that one, and when you model excursion v. frequency in something like winisd, it does give you a drop in excursion right around tuning freq thanks for the comments on the interesting idea, and feel free to try it if you'd like. make sure you wear some safety goggles and have someone standing by with a wet towel, and a few extra grinding disks, i took a fresh one down to a nub in no time I get what youre saying boon, thankyou. I figured it was something along those lines, but just didnt realize how severe the difference in in car v. free air responses could be. If we have a slow day at work I'll break out a sealed sub and our trusty AC mic and see what kind of transfer function I can find, and see how it compares to the vented response, which may be cool for everyone on here, just to see how stuff works in real world applications, because this really has me intrigued. I also have to make it prettier, im about to just cut a big square out of my rear deck and cover the entire thing in grillcloth and put it back on, i'll sprayfoam it when i get back to work and buy my L7's. Put the armrest back in and maybe flectone the port too, just to make it pretty

thats a good one, lol such a front

personally, ive had 4 pioneer decks so far (the old 5900, a 690, a 600, and now an f90), and have grounded the rca's on every one. ive used the little chrome screw that holds the rca's to chassis, its worked very well every time, and usually holds better than wrapping it around the rca's, i always manage to knock those off one way or another.

dont be like me when i fix holes in the walls break out the sandpaper and make that shit smooth, or else its going to annoy the crap out of you when you see a ripple/seam

i figured it was something to do with transfer functions, but i wanted to know details=) port is NOT LOADED, it is in an armrest, firing straight into the cabin, and at ~18sqin/cube, its friggin massive amp gains/setting are untouched from last install, subwoofer volume on deck is low for break in (like -8 when amp does full potential at 0, subs cant really take full power, so its going to be staying lowish, till i get L7's) and the subs, i dont know how much they can be loading off glass about a foot away, thats what was bugging me, that it seems so darn open, i knew cabin gain had something to do with it, but jeeze, playing 15-20hz below tuning is kinda strange IMHO. Ive been told to tune to 32-33hz for daily, but come on, if i get more spl out of 42, and it can still play high 20's, what could possibly be the upside of tuning low? edit: 2 pics so ya'll know what i mean, i know i cant explain worth a shit port: subs: i know its ugly, im cleaning it up when i go home, it was a day before going back to college cuz i need bass job, in the middle of the night in snow

I know L5's kinda defy what you normally think about subwoofers, with playing well with higher tuning, wanting a vented box when t/s parameters point to wanting a sealed box. I was told that going below a box's tuning sends the subwoofer into free-air essentially. I was also told that going below tuning ruins the "sound" off bass, and it turns more into air whooshing around. My last subs, totally did that, it was tuned to 32 hz, if I played 28, they bottomed out at max volume, and made no real bass, just whooshing That being said, these L5's do the opposite, they don't really come alive until they drop below the 42 hz tuning, they overheat before they bottom out with the power i'm throwing them, and they go like a full friggin octave under the tuning, they beast 28 hz (i say that cuz that song by rich boy-she wanna has 28hz in it, after a 58hz constant beat. They barely play 58, they are noticably louder at 28) Can anyone explain this? I'm just really curious

theres an iphone app for it too and a blackberry one i believe but, its 151, its gonna have some bite no matter what

my local law, but fairly general © No lamp shall be used on a motor vehicle having a light source greater than thirty-two candle power, unless such lamp is approved by the commissioner as provided by this section. The provisions of this paragraph shall not apply to any light which is permitted to be displayed only on an authorized emergency vehicle, a hazard vehicle or a vehicle which is permitted to display a blue or green light pursuant to paragraphs four and five of subdivision forty-one of this section. (afaikm all halogen bulbs are pre-approved) 32 candle power is a weak flashlight...like those giveaway keychain ones(most hid kits are rated like 3200 lumens+), there's also a provision for dazzle or something like that, so they can get you on the fact that your lights are brighter than a shitty flashlight or that they create "dazzle" which isnt legally defined, so they cop is free to say whatever they want. that being said, i have 8k highs and lows, for about 2 years now, ive gotten 1 warning and been pulled over about a dozen times for unrelated things. Its such a gray area because there are legal HID's out there, and its hard to prove which is which.

i'm assuming you have a gmos or equivalent harness to install it (metra is down, i cant rele check which one is right, you're prob able to get away with an xsvi harness) if you get a metra or scoche dash kit, it should come with instructions on how to install everything, unless its a generic kit as far as steering wheel controls, check peripheral and axxess, its more so reliant on the headunit you're putting in than anything, and its generally a pita to get working, make sure your headunit is "wired remote capable" or soemthing along those lines, or you're SOL some that you would think would do it, just dont (like pioneer's flagship avic-f90...1200$msrp nav that cant even have steering wheel controls