pervitizm

Bumping this up. I've been so busy that I haven't had time to really sit down and think up some designs. I have one that I was kicking around back in the fall that I want to re-visit. Now when I plug in the numbers using Expo's Box Calc program I get a really high tuning. Close to 60hz, which is not what I want. However when I use this older excle program that I also got from here my tuning comes out to 33hz. What am I doing wrong? Box Calc New: Box Calc Old: Box Design:

Thanks Mike. At least I know you care.

28 views and no replies. Not even a fuck off?

My 18's are currently in a dual port/seperate chamber box that is roughly around 11.5cuft after displacement is factored in. I want to do a single port common chamber box. I was floating around with a folded horn idea but I don't think I have enough space in the back to do this, since my goal is to try and keep all my seats in the truck. I roughly have the following outside dimensions to work with. 25in Height x 26in Depth x 49in Width You guys think I can do something other than a normal vented enclosure within the restrictions listed above? I figured I'd ask around here first before I start messing with sketchup. My current box is tunned to 34hz so I want to try and stay around the 30 - 37hz range.

Matt, Is this dual alternator kit the same price for the 2007 5.3v8 flex fueled trucks too?

Will this apply if you get this alt as part of a dual alternator kit setup?

Seeing how this guys just wasted like 4+ condoms, we can see it's been a real long time since this guy's been laid.

I guess I'm bias too cause I've got one lvl4 acting up yet these things pound like no tomorrow off of the kickers. I should have switched to the kickers long ago with these subs. So my vote is DC.

I've never done a recone before. Is there a step by step out there? Cause right now, with the house(mortgage), bills, and cut overtime, my funds wont allow for shipping off at this time.

Like a good 1200 miles away. I'm in Missouri (St.Louis). Shipping to Nevada though UPS was like $80 for 4 day ground. And overnight was well into the $400 range. The thought of being without my sub for up to two weeks is kind of hard to swallow, but if it needs to be reconed then it need to get done.

Yeah if I press on the cone it doesn't make the sound. I've got the level 5 coils, dual 1ohms. I've got the gains set low, not even half way on the amps just to make sure I'm not sending a clipping signal. I've been having issue with the boost on the amps too so that's not really on either.

Yeah I didn't have them turned up so you could hear the actual issue with the sub. As for power, I'm running three yellowtops off my factory 160amp alt for the time being. Was gonna get a 250 Rhino alt from Mechman at the end of the month for a dual alt setup, but if I got to get the sub reconed then that's gonna have to wait a bit. Shipping rates to Nevada are hell right now.

I've posted this under Subwoofer/Enclosures section but I figured I'd post it here as well since this is a DC sub. Any thoughts on what this could be? name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="295"></embed></object>"> name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="295"></embed></object>" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350">

What initially made me believe that the Autotek amp was the culprit was I did exactly that. I switched the subs around and the screeching sound went to the other sub, but it wasn't as loud as it was on the sub to the right. All this time I just thought that the B channel crossover on my Autotek amp was messed up. I still believe that the Autotek is fucked, but now I have these two brand new amps and I'm only getting the sound from the one sub. I've switched both subs around to rule out the amps, and only that one on the right sounds like that. I've sent an email to Rusty along with a link to this thread and the video. I'll see what he thinks.

With the HU though, wouldn't both subs be playing that way? I mean for it to only happen to one sub and it's the same sub. I've hooked up three amps to that one sub and it's still play that sound. I guess I'll send an email to Rusty to see what's up.

The kicker amps I now believe that the Autotek amp wasn't the issue to began with. I have no idea what's causing this static screeching sound, so I took a video and figured I'd post it on here and ask you guys. It almost sounds like my sub is trying to play mid bass frequencies. I've turned the amp's feq down to 50Hz and it was still playing that sound. Keep in mind on this video I was playing the subs at really really low volume. My HU goes to 32 and the volume was at 5/6. The car wasn't running either, just in case someone was thinking it was alternator whine. So with that said anyone have any idea's about what's going on here with my sub. It just this one sub, the other sub plays fine. DC Sound Lab Sub Playing Weird F.Y.I. I loaded the video on Myspace cause Youtube was down for maintenance.

Damn right. It would be a bitch to keep clean but shit nothing would kill it look wise. Every black challenger I've seen so far have had that silver race stripes.

If not the Volvo then, this would be my number 2 choice. Hell might be my number one if it's murdered out.

I like the Volvo S80 cars, but after going to their site to build one out the MSRP was well in the $40K + range. If you could find one for your range I say get it. And I've never seen anyone do one of these up.

However I've been searching google for about 4 hours now and I can't find anything on this. Interior panel removal All I need to know is how to remove the driver side rear panel so I can install a battery and run my power and ground wires to it. Here are the following google searches I've tried with no success: "Removing interior rear panels for 2007 Chevy Tahoe/Suburban" "Removing interior rear panels for Chevy Tahoe/Suburban" "Uninstalling interior rear panels for 2007 Chevy Tahoe/Suburban" "Uninstalling interior rear panels for Chevy Tahoe/Suburban" "Stripping interior from 2007 Chevy Tahoe/Suburban" "Removing from 2007 Chevy Tahoe/Suburban" "Changing carpet in 2007 Chevy Tahoe/Suburban"

Anyone know where I can find a write up on how to properly remove the rear trim panels in my truck? I want to install my third battery in the tray where the factory sub would have went if the truck came with one. I've got some of the rear hatch trims panels off and I don't want to go any further till I get a proper doc on how to do it cause the truck has those side curtain airbags. And I don't want to have those bad boys pop off on me.

Jeezy does it to them all the time.

I missed it last night due to my cable company's crappy policy. Since I've moved I have to wait till Friday in order to get tv service back. I've signed up on HULU so that I can try and see this weeks episode when I get my internet back on. I hate that I missed last nights show to cause the one last week was really really good.

I say beat him with with the wow factor. Since money isn't a factor, why not do a single Level5 18 DC sub off a single saz3000d amp. I say go with an ABC box for the fun of it. Do a single 260amp alt and two batteries should be more then enough to take out 4 crv's getting around 125rms each.

Change the accent color from yellow to green name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="295"></embed></object> "> name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="295"></embed></object> " type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350">24x10 on the front and 26x12 for the ass. Yup they had me sold on wide body.