pervitizm

So I've finally made a video or two of my LvL 4 18 in the back of the burban. First vid is with the volume up to around 22 out of 32....subwoofer level is at 0 and no boost. The second video is at 22 volume again with 0 subwoofer level and boost right at 8db out of 18db. The songs being played are "Get Ya Rob" for video 1 and "Hood Star" off of the Three 6 Mafia (Last 2 Walk) album. The sun light wasn't agreeing with me when I was filming the second video so I'll have to re-shoot that one later on this week. Let me know what you thing, although I'm 99% sure that I'm going to rebuild the box with both subs and a single port facing up. name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>"> name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"> name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>"> name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350">

Ronnie Brown of Miami today in favor of Fred Johnson of Buffalo.........Lets just say that was the dumbest thing I've could have done this year. Why you ask? Well Ronnie Brown (who finally started today over Ricky Williams)just put up 4 rushing touchdown, 117 yrds rushing and a passing touchdown against the New England Patriots. That about 40 points sitting on my bench right now that I could really really use. I'm 0-2 in my leauge looking at a serious 0-3 start. And to make things worst I'm the defending leauge champ so everyone's gunning for my title. For two weeks Brown has given me nothing point wise and the day I decide to sit him he wasn't to have a record breaking game. Shit I want to Nacy Kerrigan his ass right now. Oh well, I now know that he will no longer be on the bench for the rest of the year. Period!

What year burban you have? I have an 07 with 2 LvL4 18, subs up port back. I have pics but I haven't had time to load them up on my cardomain page.

I was off on the readings from the DMM. I took the subs out of the box and the coils were correct. One sub and coils that read 1.0 and 0.99 ohms. I have the subs wired in series to show a 2ohm load to each amp channel. I finally got the system to work without it going into protection but I'm still having a slight issue. I'm getting this midrange sound comming from one of the subs and I know it's the amp that's doing it and not the subs. It appears that channel B on the amp is having the issue were its sending a frequency signal to the subs that the subs are not suppose to get. I even went and tuned the frequency of the amp all the way down to 60hz and I'm still getting higher midrage sounds from the one sub connected to that channel. I thought that my radio might be messed up so I hooked up my PG amp to the subs just to see if I get the same sound comming from that amp and I don't. So I guess that elimiates the HU and the rca cables. What would cause this amp channel to produce this sound? I just think that this amp is damaged and I need to get it back to maxxsoince for repair.

If shipping is under $40 to ship to the 63010 zip code then you've got a buyer.

ChevyBoy I tried to check the readings on the subs but I wasn't see anything on my DMM. One coil would say 0.03 the other was like 0.045. ButWhat I did do was this, I disconnected both subs, and the wires used to wire them in series I then decided to wire up one of the subs straight up (+1 from amp tp +1 of sub +2 from amp to +2 of sub....and vis vercse for the - outputs on the amp and sub) Now when I do that the one sub will play......and play loud as hell too. I'm thinking that I'm either wiring the subs up wrong when I try to hook both up, or that indeed the ohm levels of the subs are wrong and it's forcing the subs to go into proctection on the amp.

Ok, I'm now frustrated. I have my Autotek amp hooked up to the subs and when I turn the HU on I get virtually no sound from the subs. When I turn the HU up the amp goes into protection. Now I have my subs( pair of LvL4 18's with the LvL5 coils dual 1ohm) hooked up in series each to give a 2ohm load on each channel. I don't understand why the amp is going into protection nor why it's not playing th subs at all. I've checked my ground point, rca, remote wire and I've just rewired the subs in the box tonight to make sure they were wired correctly and the amp will not play these subs for shit. I'm beyond the point of frustration. So anybody got any ideal on what could be wrong? Is there a way to test the channels on the amp to see if there is output? I have a digital multimeter if that helps.

Resolved my issue. The main group wire to my ground block came loose. So I found a new grounding point and reset the ground. The amp comes on now......which is good. The bad new, is that my t-nuts that I used for my box as speaker terminals are jacked up and the connection is weak as hell. I'm getting very little sound comming out of the LvL4's so I'm gonna have to think of something else. That sucks cause that box is like 200 -250lbs and I hate taking it in and out.

Nope subs were not hooked up yet? This was just to see if the amp would cut on and it did alright. Right into protection. I will find out later on today if my wiring is bad when I test it using my good ole PG amp. I know that amp works. Oh by the way, I though that it might have been because the subs were not hooked up to the amp so we hooked the amp up to the subs and still all we got was protection.

And I don't know why. I've trippled checked all my connections including my grounds and I'm still confuessed as to why this amp keeps going into protection. I've got two runs of 1/0 from my second battery to a Knu Koncepts power block( 2 1/0 for inupt 3 4-1/0 output). All three outputs are fused at 150amp with a mini-anl fuses. From the block I'm running two runs of 4 guage less than a foot to the amp's two power inputs. I have two runs of 4 guage comming from a ground block that is less than 1 foot in lenght going to the ground outs on the amp. I've checked every fuse that I have in this system and none of them are blown so I don't know what else to check. I have a phoneix gold 15:1 mono that I'm going to use tomorrow to test my connections again. I know that amp works. Any thing else I need to check before I try to send this amp in for repair?

Dude this is great. My first vehicle was a 1986 Dodge Ramcharger Royal with a 318. Man I loved that truck. I'm looking into getting another one but I gots to buy a house first. System looks good though, way better than my first system in my old Ramcharger. Can you say 4 pyramid orignal 12's off a American Boss 4 channel amp..... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/mega_shok.gif I was young then and that was my very very first system.

Weird but Kool at the same time. Cardomain has a write up on it.

Danm nice jeep. Can't wait for you to put out a vid with all three of them playing.

Thanks guys for the suggestions. I kind of knew I was gonna need a bolt lenght of at least 1.5L I did a double top baffel on my box. I just wasn't sure on the diam size of the bolt to use. So I'll go by Lowes tomorrow and pickup some 1/4 diam bolts and t-nuts for my box. I'll use the 5/16 t-nuts and bolts for my box terminals.

I was at home depot yesterday trying to buy some t-nuts and coarse threaded bolts to use for my subs, but I didn't know what size to go with. I was going to use 5/16 diam t-nuts but they seemed a bit to big for the hole opening on my Lvl 4s. So my question is what should teh t-nut and bolt diam be for use with the subs?

Man with all that engine reving you have to do I would start charging for the demo. Nothing for those that just want to experience that tremendous amount of bass and $2.00 per song for the non believers/doubters. That way at least the doubter can pay for the pleasure of sitting in your ride. By my calculations that guy owes you about $12 in demo fees.

That green candy is sick.....SICK! I can't wait to afford me an ol skool. Although I want to us an old mopar C-body car. I haven't seen anyone with a old plymouth fury or a chrysler 300.

Is it possible for you to make it a direct bolt-in for an 2007 Tahoe/Suburban? If so then I'm intrested. Also did the quoted price include shipping cost?

Hey Rusty no problem I'm just glad I got them and in quick time too. You had them shipped to me within a matter of 4 days after I had purchased them. Now I'm just waiting on my wires and isolator so I can get these subs in the truck.

Wait a minute. I brought Lvl 4's with lvl5 coils and my box didn't say lvl5. What gives Rusty?.................Oh well I guess well find out if I did indeed get those coils or not within the next week are so. Good luck with your build May03LT. If your like me I know you can't wait to hear your gear.

Let me asks you guys this. When I was looking at the shop owners suburban, I notice the he went from the alterntor to the isolator then to the battery. All of the dual battery setups I've seen went from the pos of main battery to the isolator to the pos of the aux battery. Is there anything wrong with going from the Alt to the isolator? Seeing that this will be the first time that I hook up two batteries in any car, and this is still a brand new truck, in my own mind I feel I would be safer if I included the isolator. So the isolator is in for now.

Man, Now I know why I hate going to local audio shops. Everyone wants to down the shit you have just so you can buy the shit they offer. I went to one shop today just to see if they carried some memphis speakers that I've been trying to buy for the truck. I notice that the owner of the shop was rolling an 2007 suburban as well so I figured I'd ask how much they would charge me to hookup my second battery since I was already there. They asked me what I was running and what not. I told them I was running the dual DC's off my autotek and that I wanted a single aux battery for now cause I'll be going to a with an additional alt at the end of the summer. This guys goes on to tell me how many watts my amp won't put out, that I don't need two runs of 1/0, and that a second alt isn't necessary if I just go ahead and ditch my factory alt. I then told the guy that I wanted to keep the factory system in tack and that the purpose of the second alt would be to power my sound system. I told him that I was intrested in running the Powermaster Xs series battery thinking that he carried it cause he had mentioned to me that he installed their alternators. Guy tells me this story about how powermaster didn't make their own batteries that some other company made them and that the Kinetik were way better batteries. So guy goes ahead and quote me $580 to intall an isolator and a single HC1800. They didn't carry the battery in stock so I would have to wait fo them to order it, which would take about a week. I'm like okay let me think about that and took his card and left. I hate shops that are about trashing the stuff you have. Why can't I go to a shop and when I tell them what I have they respond with a "how can we assist you with what you have" as appose to "yeah that not as good as product A that I carry maybe you should buy this instead". The messed up part about this was that He has some Bravox speakers there that sounded pretty good. I was about to buy them, but then he goes on to trash Diamond Audio (I just brought a pair of the D363.5 for my front doors). He says that their quality went down due to them selling the company to some korean company. Says he's down for selling only American made products but offered to sell me some speakers made from Brazill? Well I guess they are American made.....South American. I then go to shop number two. Here I just ask for the price they would charge me for an HC1800. Again they didn't have the battery in stock. They wanted $350 for the HC1800 battery and then I was gonna have to pay to have them ship me the battery so total cost was gonna come out to around $435. . So now that I know I can't find an Kinetik or a PowerMaster locally, I'm now more than sure I'm gonna run an Optima Yellow Top. I stopped by Autozone tonight and picked up a battery tray and battery hold down. Tomorrow I start on the box build and order my wires. I'm gonna go with KnuKoncepts. Do you guys think that a Yellow Top 800/700 cca battery is good enough for now? That seems like the biggest battery I can find locally.

Thanks for the tip. I'll swing by my local Costco tomorrow after work to see what they have.