Forevrbumpn

I just Rhino line, about 2-3 layers, then clear coat, about 3-4 coats. and then I got a damn near scratch resist coating. Looks really clean, and no need for primer, and the rhino line spray paint doesnt absorb like spray paint does, then you can also paint other colors Over the rhino, like to match the car, or interior... easiest way to paint a box in my experience, but it has that wrinkled/tectured look

Yeah, it can be done. How many of those do you have? The SQ on tlines rivals the best Sealed boxes, but with a good 3db gain min (seen 3db gain switching from 2- subs ported to 1 in a tline with a better response) Yeah they can play pretty flat, if you build them based on the subs Fs, but if you build them based on a bass boost, or EQ, you are bypassing the subs FS, and get a descent gain at Boost. But still, the SQ is pretty amazing. If you do a 1/4 wave box with a 40hz boost/40hz length (only boosted about 1/4-1/3rd up) you can get some incredible output. Infact, tonite I learned 1-$150 10" in a tline, with a 250 wrms mono block plate amp, swapped out with a $2000 15" and a 500wrms class D amp in a 4cf sealed box--- The 10" still played deeper, louder, with alot less effort, I would say the 15" lost 3db easy to the 10" in the tline (that was home audio ofcourse) But PM me, I have tons of tline designs I have no problem helping you with

on the Jasper jig itself, there is a chart of sizes in 1/8" incriments, from 7"- 24" or something like that, and depending on what size you need, there is a little 1/8" pin you press in to the hole, and drill a 1/8" hole in the center of where you want to cut... once you see it, and use it once, you will realize its the best investment in wood working, next to a great router, and a good set of useable router bits :^

Atomic was one of the first companies to come out with a over sized woofer. They had 24"s back in the early 90's when most of us were rideing BMXs... same as MTX Iam sure there is atleast 10 companies that have woofers over 20" Jack Hammer is just the heaviest

Iam not a forum guy, but I love this forum. Great sht

I get tues and thursdays off---yayyyyy!! not actually, no kids, or woman home, just me PORN TIME!

I read the exact same thing, 1/4"glass = 3/4" mdf but like said up there, that will depend on curves, not glass laid flat.

Damn Meade.... your the man... The 8s in my s-10s doors look like crap compared to yours :'( think you can make just about anything look good

looks good Meade, love how you did that door

my buddy, he is on here, Piggy, he has a Aerostar, and 2- last year model 18"XXX dvc 2ohm, with those exact same amps-modded, and he was hitting 148@29-30ish hz, that was some throw up lows right there, heh

yeah, what he said... heh dont forget to measure the air space taken up by any port, or subwoofer. Subs usually dont take up more than .25cf, and even that is for a bulky 15" subwoofer.

internal dimension's w"t"d" dev / 1728 (1728 equals how many square inches are in a square foot)

haha... damnit, where is a magic wand when you need one? Thanks for the info.... Guess just the 1f/2r drop will do. And the Extreme rims from the newer models is a good idea. And scratch the transfer case idea... was already told there would be major welding, and frame modifications, which I never would be able to afford, in 10years... Just wanted a second opinion on that part. Thanks Phil

I have a question about 4x4 85' s-10/s15 blazer/gmc... The front suspension bushing wise is all torn to sht, and I have seen a 1" drop front/4" in the back-kit for the 4x4, anyway to get that front end lower? With out $1000's of mods? Its got some fat 245-75-15 tires I hate, would like to jump up in rim size, and down in tire size. Something like a 16" rim, about a 225/60-65- 16"(tires rub easily on the fender original owner attempted a 4wheeler outta this one) and try and keep the tires tucked in as much as possible. And damn, the transfer case doesnt shift, is it hard to take the tranfer cases out, also with out mods to axles, ect.? So, recap- 1) descent drop kit for the 4x4 model- plusssss bushing kits big time- tired of hearing my shocks hit bare metal-same as control arms 2) Cheap-o rims that will tuck in better 3) Transfer case- take out and toss??? I would like to bring this s-10 back to life, and sell it... alot of the interior is being glassed, door pods, kick panels, and rear-sides panels with dual 6.5"s in each side.

hahah... damn dude

if you used 1" mdf, no braceing, your looking at a hair over 19cf with those dimensions. With braceing, port volumn, sub displacement, ect, your looking at about 12-15cf

A few years ago, I looked up on google, "world largest subwoofer" I found that MTX 60inch, but also the worlds largest Home audio subwoofer, which actually consists of 16-18" woofers, in a horn loaded under ground enclosure, tuned I believe to 16hz. 1w 1 meter was about 120db, now thats some efficiency huh? I would Love to build something like this in a home. Its a high end home audio company called Royal Device from Italy. Here is the link www.royaldevice.com/custom.htm

well, sure most people here will say the Type Rs subs up, port back, and tune it at about 28-30hz... any lower the bass isnt going to be playing that loud, will play deep, but will lose the output, because of 2 reasons, cars accoustic transfer function, and speakers ability to play freqs lower than 30hz.... unless you went Meade style and just squeezed a 18 in there and tun it about the same ... and yeah, you can get a 18" in there, and yes, you can find a 18" for under $300...($239) try the SSD 18 from Fi caraudio.... then you should be shitting your pants

read the title yeah yeah... I know... I didnt need to ask what kind of car that was going in, because its the main topic heh :-[

150s is hard to do man. 2-15s with 2-12s sealed, hitting 152? never heard of sealed getting in the 50s, unless its a wall of subs sealed, like 10-10s with alot of power. ALOT of power. Well, unless you use the older out of date meters, like the older ACs other brands, but these days to get in the 50s club, you would need to go ported, large box, large amp, large cones... If you want to do SS subs, and get some good numbers, scrap the Turantula subs, and go either SPLX SS 15s, or the XXX15s (soundstream) and also, what kind of ride is that goin in?

woofer flex? wtf? if you want to know if the woofers are wired right, get a drill battery,camcorder/9v something descently strong, and tap the leads. Both should shoot out the same direction.... If just one wire is out of phase (dvc subs wired ser-parr) The cone reaction time will be slow, if its wired right, the cone reaction time from the battery will be very fast... POP

Thanks Audio. Iam not really partial to either the L7 or Atlas... But installing the atlas, it seemed to be nice and beefy, and ended up playing really nicely, great all around sub, very strong on the lows I may try a few of these personally now, in a crx box in my s10... I dunno yet... I can get non labeled high end subs for cheap, but I would like to represent somethin its like, these, or these... ya know? Image173.jpg_thumb Image174.jpg_thumb Image199.jpg_thumb

a good set up for rock/rap/trance, and affordable, just a trio of descent 10s ported to about 38-40hz... Drums come to life around those tunning freqs, and can still get some nice strong deep bass that rock plays

If you wanted deeper lows, yeah, the corner.... but another thing, if you wanted them to play lower, keep the subs off in the furthest part of the room possibile that you can. Keep the subs close to you, they will sound punchier, keep them in a corner, and far away from you, the lows will play louder, even in a closet, and keep the door only open so much, kind of open, lose it till you find that sweet spot

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