emperorjj1

jon wouldnt in this case 100% coverage do best even if it were an inferior product? just sorta thinking outloud but since the rain drops are many little vibrations over a single big sound wave vibration... idk what do u think

just to clear up confusion alpha damp works better vs damp pro in the same amounts. but with a better working product u can decide to use less for the same results saving u install time/effort OR choose the same amount for better results (depends on diminishing results ect) Both products work the same way so theres no real wrong answer or right answer if that makes any sense.

The HWP is just laying on the headliner. im pretty sure i used glue but i honestly cant remember. the MMP is stuck to the actual roof thou

well alpha damp would be better bc its a better product. but depends on how much ur using too. i would also recommend sealing the gigantic hole in the door as well and getting some overkill to use as gasket for that speaker. those doors on the f150 are sorta a pain

right. i have damp pro and heatwave pro and motor mat pro on mine and i have no noise issues whatsoever. i added the HWP and MMP for thermal reasons but they do help with the sound as well but as jon said u don't get much from the roof anyway. also trying to fit a heavy barrier like Lux Liner Pro prob isnt the best idea even if it did do its job

Your saying that means you missed the point of my post, and so did jon as it seems. oh well, ill carry on misunderstood and y'all carry on selling stuff that doesn't do a bit of good for half the target audience of this forum. Note the gfaphs had huge spikes down low, where most of us want deadening to begin with. so what exactly was ur point then? seeing this i don't see how anyone could argue that peel and seal is worth a damn... yes it does "something" as the test shows but most importantly its not even cheaper when u look at the actual results. comparing 200% vs 25% to halfway equal what does that show people with 4 layers or whatever? looking at the graphs from 100% to 200% you can see where diminishing results kicks in and it does little at some points. at least i think i can (jon can u make a graph to show 100% vs the double layer?)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xx4BsBr2fU

how big is the area ur trying to remove. on a small section i cut out where i wanted removed and took off the foil then used a putty knife to get out the better part and dabbing to take out the rest

hey chode u giving away all them speaker tweakers? top left google plus?

i dont think its spam... but still no bueno

there is shop pack damp pro

ya i didn't plan on being there that long but we joined the line at 9pm when there were like 45 people in front of us. i wanted to go at like 12 or 1 but by then the line would have been huge

nice im down for that. ya waiting in line at best buy for 10 hours wasnt fun. never again

ya fuck running power under the car. i have ground under the car but i wouldnt trust power. like jon said the if possible makeing a notch in the foam so the vinyl stays intact is the best but if not cutting the llp itself is ok as well. i think second skin should just manufact some LLP in my car so the foam and vinyl are perfect and uncut.

^^^ bad idea. and gl to you guys removing that shit not gonna lie but i wouldnt wanna be in your shoes

u can order the caps themselves. should order glue too while ur at it

ah right right i thought u meant breaking the cap itself

ive herd carbon kevlar is stronger then carbon alone depending on the weave. but really you should be able to fold the paper cone before you "break" even the standard abs boob dustcap, so the extra strength is insignificant

they are only being sold to the coo peeps so you need not apply lol jk idk

hell ya lol im the one buggin u about em on caco

in for info on the blue ones becoming avail

yup u made the list bro

lol i know bro i deleted my post bc i realized it said in the post

lemons? idk how u smell that

depends on your goals and rattling situation but yes