Nightshade

Let me guess custom Nightshades with stiffer suspension, cooling option, and longer coil???

X2 on what change was made. Damn Gary you're gonna reach 150 in your trunk car before I do in my hatch.

Same here only on this site though.

Running two seperate amps will help with your impedence rise. If you wire all the subs together and run them off of one amp your rise is going to be greater than if you wired half of the subs up to one amp and half up to the other. For example, I have 2 Nightshade 12's off of a Crunch GP Pro 3000D and the subs are dual 1's. I have each coil on the subs series and then the subs are wired parallel at the amp. The amp reads 1.2 ohms at the inputs. When I figure in the impedence rise after dividing the amps voltage by the amps current I get 3.88 ohms. This means that when I am playing a test tone or music my amp is only putting out power at almost 4 ohms. So, I am only getting 1900 watts to the subs instead of 3000. I am going to get two Sundown SAZ1500D's and wire each sub at .5 ohms which would be the coils in parallel. So that when I get my box rise in the amps will more than likely be playing at 1.5-2 ohms if they carry the same trend as the subs wired to one amp. Do you see what I'm saying about spreading the rise out between two amps? You do that so each amp has a rise, but it's not as great as it would be if you were wired to a single amp.

X10 on the flex. It looks like there are only single layer baffle's for the subs. That's not smart at all. If I were building a box for 16 12's and had 8 of them on each baffle I'd do like 3 layers of 3/4" mdf at minimum. I wonder what it does on the meter.

Specs and how much for the 1400?

Bump for my boy. I can't believe that no one's taking these badass batteries off of your hands. I'd like to have one, but it would be a while until I would have the money. The job search is still not going the greatest. Good luck getting rid of these man. Someone buy them so he can get his 16 volt batts!

Congrats guys on the good showing at finals. Way to go Mike Singer on the 149.9 bassrace world championship!!!!! That is awesome to see a guy I know and talk to win a world title for himself. Also congrats to Jake and Kory too on their showings at finals this year. I'll be there next year with you guys, and hopefully Team Sundown will be taking home a lot more trophy's.

That sounds more reasonable. But like I said those amps don't do the power that they say they do. My car owns his and I have less power and round subs instead of square ones. My amp is only puttin out 1900 watts to my subs, which means that each sub is getting about 950 watts. I have consistantly thrown up 148's out of my car this year, and it's been a little down since I got recones but it'll jump back up when I get my new amplification. I was really just trying to get you to see that those amps aren't all that great at all. You should invest your money in something that will push your 10's to their limit if you're trying to get it loud. I repeat again DO NOT run that Soundstream amp at .5 ohms it will blow up and you will be crying because you lost your amp. Buy something that will accomidate your subs like they need to be. Like I told you before you need an amp that is stable at .5ohms or 2ohms. There are a lot of amps out there that are 1ohm stable that will run at .5ohms, but that Soundstream amp isn't one of them.

If the Sundown's are out of his price range then check out the Hifonics Brutus line. They make pretty solid amps for a very reasonable price. You also might want to check out somewhere like ebay. You can find very nice used equiptment on there for way lower than you would expect to find it. I saw a guy on there selling an American Bass 150.1 for $400, which is a very decent price for one of those amps. It will put out 2500 watts all day long at 1 ohm, but that may be a little too much for those subs. It was just an example though.

What kind of load are you running on the ZX1500.1? Because if you drop it below 2 ohms where it is stable at that could be a reason that you keep frying it. That is the only reason I can think of other than it is just a defective amp to begin with. But it would definately have troubles if you are running it below 2 ohms. I've seen it happen before with those amps. A buddy of mine had a ZX400.1 that he dropped down to .5 and smoked it in like a min. He sent it back to Kicker and got it fixed. I bought it off of him and put it in my fiance's car to run a single RF P1 and have never had a single problem with it. You may just have got shitty luck and each time they've tried to fix your amp something else has fucked up.

And that meter is probably an Audio Control. He said get a TL, which stands for Term Lab. Which is the only mic that matters period!!!

Dude I'm not trying to be an ass, but a 159 with 2 L7 12's and a ZX2500.1 is damn near fucking impossible. I'm sure anyone here will agree that is an outrageous number even in the kick of a car. I'll leave this one right here cause I'm sure if you keep swearing that is a real score you're gonna get flamed by more people than just me.

The only way you can run an amp at 1 ohm with a dual 2 ohm sub is if you only run 1 sub. You can wire the coils in parallel to get a 1ohm load, but if you were to wire two subs that way you would get .5ohms. Also if you were to wire the coils in series you would have each sub at 4ohms and then paralled they would be at 2 ohms. So your options with dual 2 ohm subs are running the amp at .5ohms or 2ohms. Like I said though if you're measuring in the kick a 145 isn't going to be that hard to get out of two of those 10's. I told you I do 149's all day long in the kick of my car with 2 Sundown Nightshade 12's off of a Crunch Groundpounder Pro 3000D that is only putting out 1900 watts to the pair of the subs. If you're trying to do 145's on the dash that's going to be a bit harder. My score drops from a 149.4 in the kick to a 148.1 consistantly on the dash. If you were to get an amp that puts out max power at 2 ohms or even one that will play at .5 ohms you will get a 145 no problem with those subs. What was the scion that you heard running in it, and what kind of numbers did they see out of it?

It would still definately be beneficial to ground the rear batteries to the frame even though you have a run of negative to the rear. It's only going to help to stiffen the ground to the rear batteries. Do it, it's not much work and will help out some.

The sub still plays like that right? It probably just sounds like shit am I right? If so by regluing the spider back it will stop the sub from making a smacking or rattling sound and it will sound normal again. Unless you actually burnt the coil, but from the pics it doesn't look like that happened. Do you have access to a digital multi meter? If so measure the coils of the sub and see what they read. I can guide you through that if you don't know what I'm talking about.

Oh yeah, a 145 or better is completely possible in that car with those 2 10's. I've seen the exact same 10's in a Civic hatch doing 146.x's off of a Kicker ZX1500.1 If you want help with a box let me know and I'll see what I can come up with, and you will have to use aeroports for the box too to help get the score that high. What kind of comps are you talking about taking it to anyway. Usaci, Db Drag, Iasca? Because certain organizations are harder to get higher scores in. Like for example my car does a 148.X on the dash Db Drag style and a 149.4 in the kick all sealed up which would be closer to Usaci. This is with 2 12's in a Focus ZX3 off of 1900 watts rms.

DO NOT!!!! run that Soundstream amp at .5 ohms. It will fry really quick at that low of an impedence. Go with an amp that makes power at 2 ohms like a Kicker ZX1500.1 or 1000.1 because those SS 2000D's won't even come close to making 2000 watts. You'd be lucky to see 1300 out of it in real world power. Not that it's not capable of 2000, but when you figure in box rise there's no way in hell that you'll be getting anywhere close to 2000. Imo I'd do a Sundown 1500D at .5 ohms on two decent batteries and call it a day. You'll be more than happy with that amp and you can pick one up brand new for $425 for Sundownz here on the forum.

Good luck Jake. I wish that I could have been there with you, Mike, Kory, and the rest of the guys. Too bad, maybe next year. Anyway I know you're gonna do something big cause I talked to Mike a little while back and he said that it's gonna be crazy. I'll be watching on Db TV.

WTF DJ. When you're at work you're supposed to be working

They use it because it's cheaper than epoxy. Jacob at Sundown told me after the CA glue failed on the woofers that we reconed just to go and get the epoxy that I mentioned because it would work better and be stronger. He also said that the only reason that he doesn't use it on all of his woofers is because it's way more expensive than the CA glue he normally does. He also offered an epoxy option on the E8 woofers to help the spiders hold on at higher power when the CA glue was failing. It doesn't matter CA glue is harder to come by and epoxy is easy to get. Use whatever you are most comfortable with, or whatever is available to you.

5 minute epoxy by loctite will work better than any ca glue ever will. Go to Home Depot or Lowes and get a package of it for $4 and make sure it's the one with the tubes with it that will mix the epoxy together in equal parts. Don't waste your time with ca glue, it takes longer to dry and it isn't as strong. The same thing happened to one of my subs after it was reconed and I used the loctite epoxy and I have never had an issue with it since. I also blew a dust cap off of the reconed woofer and used the epoxy to fix it and it's better than ever. USE THE EPOXY!!!

5 minute epoxy by loctite. Use that shit and that mirror will never ever come off again. That stuff is awesome and has something like 2500psi holding strength.

Believe it or not but Steve only has about 15000 real world watts in his van. He told me at one point earlier this season that he was only getting 1600 watts a pair out of the Soundstream 2000D's that he's running. He is definately amp shopping for next year to try and get the power those subs need. The way that his van sits now is 161.X on a burp and 158.9 in bassrace. He has a certified 158.8 at a double point show, but I was at the show of his own where a 158.9 was pulled. It was pretty badass too because when he started his run the meter red lighted at a 160.X and then slowly dropped to a 158.9 at the end of the run. My guess is that he's either losing too much voltage throughout the run or the song drops off a little bit causing the run to suffer. Anyway, is Chicken's hoopty ever gonna get in the lanes to Bassrace when it's finished? I'm sure that it would be one of the dominate vehicles in bassrace. It would be badass to see 159.9's out of an Escalade.

I think that Brian should run in that class. That way if he wins and Adam wins in Indy they'll go up against one another. That'll settle a few things of who's the better bassracer. I would love to see that match up. What about the rest of you?