Nightshade

The only way you can run an amp at 1 ohm with a dual 2 ohm sub is if you only run 1 sub. You can wire the coils in parallel to get a 1ohm load, but if you were to wire two subs that way you would get .5ohms. Also if you were to wire the coils in series you would have each sub at 4ohms and then paralled they would be at 2 ohms. So your options with dual 2 ohm subs are running the amp at .5ohms or 2ohms. Like I said though if you're measuring in the kick a 145 isn't going to be that hard to get out of two of those 10's. I told you I do 149's all day long in the kick of my car with 2 Sundown Nightshade 12's off of a Crunch Groundpounder Pro 3000D that is only putting out 1900 watts to the pair of the subs. If you're trying to do 145's on the dash that's going to be a bit harder. My score drops from a 149.4 in the kick to a 148.1 consistantly on the dash. If you were to get an amp that puts out max power at 2 ohms or even one that will play at .5 ohms you will get a 145 no problem with those subs. What was the scion that you heard running in it, and what kind of numbers did they see out of it?

It would still definately be beneficial to ground the rear batteries to the frame even though you have a run of negative to the rear. It's only going to help to stiffen the ground to the rear batteries. Do it, it's not much work and will help out some.

The sub still plays like that right? It probably just sounds like shit am I right? If so by regluing the spider back it will stop the sub from making a smacking or rattling sound and it will sound normal again. Unless you actually burnt the coil, but from the pics it doesn't look like that happened. Do you have access to a digital multi meter? If so measure the coils of the sub and see what they read. I can guide you through that if you don't know what I'm talking about.

Oh yeah, a 145 or better is completely possible in that car with those 2 10's. I've seen the exact same 10's in a Civic hatch doing 146.x's off of a Kicker ZX1500.1 If you want help with a box let me know and I'll see what I can come up with, and you will have to use aeroports for the box too to help get the score that high. What kind of comps are you talking about taking it to anyway. Usaci, Db Drag, Iasca? Because certain organizations are harder to get higher scores in. Like for example my car does a 148.X on the dash Db Drag style and a 149.4 in the kick all sealed up which would be closer to Usaci. This is with 2 12's in a Focus ZX3 off of 1900 watts rms.

DO NOT!!!! run that Soundstream amp at .5 ohms. It will fry really quick at that low of an impedence. Go with an amp that makes power at 2 ohms like a Kicker ZX1500.1 or 1000.1 because those SS 2000D's won't even come close to making 2000 watts. You'd be lucky to see 1300 out of it in real world power. Not that it's not capable of 2000, but when you figure in box rise there's no way in hell that you'll be getting anywhere close to 2000. Imo I'd do a Sundown 1500D at .5 ohms on two decent batteries and call it a day. You'll be more than happy with that amp and you can pick one up brand new for $425 for Sundownz here on the forum.

Good luck Jake. I wish that I could have been there with you, Mike, Kory, and the rest of the guys. Too bad, maybe next year. Anyway I know you're gonna do something big cause I talked to Mike a little while back and he said that it's gonna be crazy. I'll be watching on Db TV.

WTF DJ. When you're at work you're supposed to be working

They use it because it's cheaper than epoxy. Jacob at Sundown told me after the CA glue failed on the woofers that we reconed just to go and get the epoxy that I mentioned because it would work better and be stronger. He also said that the only reason that he doesn't use it on all of his woofers is because it's way more expensive than the CA glue he normally does. He also offered an epoxy option on the E8 woofers to help the spiders hold on at higher power when the CA glue was failing. It doesn't matter CA glue is harder to come by and epoxy is easy to get. Use whatever you are most comfortable with, or whatever is available to you.

5 minute epoxy by loctite will work better than any ca glue ever will. Go to Home Depot or Lowes and get a package of it for $4 and make sure it's the one with the tubes with it that will mix the epoxy together in equal parts. Don't waste your time with ca glue, it takes longer to dry and it isn't as strong. The same thing happened to one of my subs after it was reconed and I used the loctite epoxy and I have never had an issue with it since. I also blew a dust cap off of the reconed woofer and used the epoxy to fix it and it's better than ever. USE THE EPOXY!!!

5 minute epoxy by loctite. Use that shit and that mirror will never ever come off again. That stuff is awesome and has something like 2500psi holding strength.

Believe it or not but Steve only has about 15000 real world watts in his van. He told me at one point earlier this season that he was only getting 1600 watts a pair out of the Soundstream 2000D's that he's running. He is definately amp shopping for next year to try and get the power those subs need. The way that his van sits now is 161.X on a burp and 158.9 in bassrace. He has a certified 158.8 at a double point show, but I was at the show of his own where a 158.9 was pulled. It was pretty badass too because when he started his run the meter red lighted at a 160.X and then slowly dropped to a 158.9 at the end of the run. My guess is that he's either losing too much voltage throughout the run or the song drops off a little bit causing the run to suffer. Anyway, is Chicken's hoopty ever gonna get in the lanes to Bassrace when it's finished? I'm sure that it would be one of the dominate vehicles in bassrace. It would be badass to see 159.9's out of an Escalade.

I think that Brian should run in that class. That way if he wins and Adam wins in Indy they'll go up against one another. That'll settle a few things of who's the better bassracer. I would love to see that match up. What about the rest of you?

Yeah it's not that big of a secret. In every thread that he's got up on here he's talking about his car. Not hard to put 2 and 2 together.

There are plenty of competitors from Cleveland and I doubt anyone here has any idea who this is anyway. I talked to him about this build recently and also a couple of other teamates of his. It should be pretty badass when it's done. I'm hoping that he does a really good number cause he deserves it

I know that car. Am I allowed to say who's it is? I'll give a hint, he's a competitor from Cleveland, Ohio.

Alpine, I don't believe you won anything. I do honestly think that you're a homo. I love the picture of you on your Termpro stats page. Alpine has to skydive with a dude strapped to his back. Is he there to give you a reach around if you get to scarred. You have no respect what so ever in the Db Drag community. Kimo's the only one who actually made you guys look half way decent. If it weren't for him you wouldn't be shit. Kimo, I think you are a good guy. If I ever disrespected you I'm sorry man. You truly are trying to keep the sport alive and I compliment you for that. As for the rest of your team they aren't worth it man. You could do so much better if you had some decent guys around to support you and help Team Bassick regain their good name. Good luck next year, but I don't plan on ever competing in the SPL Max Cup ever again. I finished 24th overall and I'm still pissed that the integrity was compromised.

If you have a couple of decent batteries in the bank and I see that you already have a ho alt. I would definately run that 3000D at .5 all day long. That will not hurt that amp at all if you got the juice to give to it.

Bump for this cool dude. He needs these gone so he can step up in the game. Good deal for some top notch batteries.

I had the same exact thing happen with my Crunch GP3000D. I don't know if it was touching the heat sink of the amp or not, but when I first hooked up the negative to the amp there were a few big sparks. I quickly unhooked it. I also pulled out the positive wire too to have a look. It left a little black residue around where the positive wire touches the metal contact to the terminal. The part of the metal that is on the inside of the plastic. Anyway I hooked the negative up first this time and pulled the fuse for the positive before I put the positive back in. There were no sparks this time because there was no current in the wire and the amp was fine and has been fine ever since. I had never had that happen with any other amp other than my Crunch. I have always hooked up the positive wire and then the ground and this was the only time it ever did that. Maybe it's something with Maxxsonics amps. Oh well, it has never given me a problem because of that so I'm not worried about it.

No problem. Do yourself a favor, if you're planning on building a new box take a look at maybe doing some aeroports. In several situations I've seen them be .8-1+ db's louder than a standard slot port. I can tell you in my case what I found out. Without changing internal volume at all I went from a 4cuft after displacement box with woofers and subs up doing a 145.7. To a 4cuft box after displacement with aeroports and subs up and woofers back to a 148.1. I don't know what made the biggest impact, if it was firing the port back instead of up. Or if it was by adding aeroports to the setup. Anyway the gain in spl was 2.4 dbs with only making those two changes. Aeroports are the shit. And by using the least ammount to get the desired port area is the best way to go. In the box I have now I have 4 4" aero's which equal out to 50.24sqin of port area. If I were to use 2 6" aero's which would be 56.52sqin of port I would see a slight rise in tuning freq that could be compensated by adding length to the port, but I would also see a gain in spl due to the two ports making the enclosure more efficient that running 4 ports. I have yet to try this, but when I do I'm not changing anything but making a pannel that will screw onto my box that will have the 2 6's and 4 4's and then metering it to see which is actually louder. I'll post the results when I get around to doing this. First I gotta add some new amps before I start doing surgery to my box. Good luck with the build!!!

I burried one solution in there and it is to decrease the internal airspace of the box. In a smaller box the rise isn't as much as a larger one, but you will also lose efficiency of the sub in a smaller enclosure so you better have the power to compensate for the loss. I've also been told that tuning the box to a higher frequency will also help bring the rise down some, but that may go hand in hand with shrinking the airspace down I'm not really sure.

I'll save you a little trouble and tell you about how loud that car is without you even metering it. If you aren't skipping the deck you aren't doing over a 142. It's jus the way that the focus dash kits are. They just snap into place and don't support the deck very well. I tried Alpine, JVC, Eclipse, and finally Pioneer with a changer under the seat to get it to stop skipping. Also if you haven't broke the welds that hold the back wiper in place within the first week of the install it probably isn't all that loud either. Good luck though, on the wall build. The car isn't all that big and it's gonna be kinda hard to fit that many woofers in there in the proper airspace. The cargo area alone only has 9 usable cubes before you get almost to the roof of the car. Anyway if you get this done anytime soon I wanna see it in action. I just looked back, and 6 15's I doubt that unless it's gonna be a sealed clamshell or an outlaw type compression chamber. I really wanna see 6 15's in a Focus ZX3 :01nocomment8so:

Like he said after finding ac current of the amp and then finding ac voltage of the amp both on the output side you will divide the ac voltage by the ac current and that will tell you what your box rise is. For example, my setup sets at 1.2 ohms nominal and when rise is calculated it is 3.9 ohms reactive. The reactive load is the actual load the amplifier sees and also determines what kind of power it will make. So if you have an amp that makes 3K at 1 ohms and your box rise is in the neighborhood of mine your amp isn't going to make nearly that kind of power, but in my situation I have a 3K amp and with my rise I'm still making 1900 watts at almost 4 ohms. That is some serious power to be made at that impedence. That's why in my situation I plan on doing an amp per woofer in the future to help some with the rise. If I split the rise between two amps then each amp will see less rise then if the subs were wired to one large amp. In my case I will have each amp wired to .5 ohms and if they carry the same trend as when wired to 1 ohms on the large amp each amp should see around 2 ohms after box rise. The amps I plan on getting run about 1800 watts at 1 ohm, so in the area of 2200 or more at .5 ohms. They will more than likely be putting out 1600 watts or possibly more at 2 ohms. This will effectivly give me an increase of 1300 watts, which is adding more than half the power I had before. This should also result in a gain in spl. It might not be too great, but I would expect around a db or a little more. Other variables also may affect it such as the efficiency of the woofer. In my case I do believe that my woofers take more power to move than most, so I may see a slightly larger gain then some because the woofer is in the range of power that it opperates best in. Another way to help out with the box rise is to put the woofer in a smalle enclosure. By cutting down the box size it will also help the rise at the amp. You could also try stepping up port area to get the rise down some, but this can also result in a smaller box with a frequency that the woofer isn't comfortable playing in. Most people never even take the time to find out what their amps are actually putting out. I've heard a lot of guys that have a Sundown 3000D say well I'm putting 3K to each woofer and they're more than likely wrong unless they've clamped the amp and measured the outputs and figured for rise. Don't assume that if you buy a 2K amp that is rated to do 2K at 1 ohm that it will do that in your setup. It will more than likely do that 2K, but only if your reactive load is at that 1 ohm that it is designed to put out the rated power at. A friend of mine has 16 Sound Stream PCA2000D's on 8 solo X 18's. He is amp shopping for next year because the most he gets out of a pair of these amps strapped is 1600 watts. They have the potential to do 4000 watts but in his setup they are very inefficient. To make a long story short they only way you will know what your box rise is, is to test for it. It's also good to do this to know how much power you are actually putting out so you know where you are able to get gains at by adding more power if necessary. Sorry about my short novel here, but hopefully it helps you understand a little better.

I believe that 85 would be switched+12volts, 86 would be ground, 30 is also +12 volts, and 87 is to the amps.

Those were some good videos man. I had fun at the show too, and I can't wait until I can go to another one and get a chance to finish this time. It sucks that the police shut it down before it was even over. They just didn't want me to take everyone's money