Nightshade

Yeah it's not that big of a secret. In every thread that he's got up on here he's talking about his car. Not hard to put 2 and 2 together.

There are plenty of competitors from Cleveland and I doubt anyone here has any idea who this is anyway. I talked to him about this build recently and also a couple of other teamates of his. It should be pretty badass when it's done. I'm hoping that he does a really good number cause he deserves it

I know that car. Am I allowed to say who's it is? I'll give a hint, he's a competitor from Cleveland, Ohio.

Alpine, I don't believe you won anything. I do honestly think that you're a homo. I love the picture of you on your Termpro stats page. Alpine has to skydive with a dude strapped to his back. Is he there to give you a reach around if you get to scarred. You have no respect what so ever in the Db Drag community. Kimo's the only one who actually made you guys look half way decent. If it weren't for him you wouldn't be shit. Kimo, I think you are a good guy. If I ever disrespected you I'm sorry man. You truly are trying to keep the sport alive and I compliment you for that. As for the rest of your team they aren't worth it man. You could do so much better if you had some decent guys around to support you and help Team Bassick regain their good name. Good luck next year, but I don't plan on ever competing in the SPL Max Cup ever again. I finished 24th overall and I'm still pissed that the integrity was compromised.

If you have a couple of decent batteries in the bank and I see that you already have a ho alt. I would definately run that 3000D at .5 all day long. That will not hurt that amp at all if you got the juice to give to it.

Bump for this cool dude. He needs these gone so he can step up in the game. Good deal for some top notch batteries.

I had the same exact thing happen with my Crunch GP3000D. I don't know if it was touching the heat sink of the amp or not, but when I first hooked up the negative to the amp there were a few big sparks. I quickly unhooked it. I also pulled out the positive wire too to have a look. It left a little black residue around where the positive wire touches the metal contact to the terminal. The part of the metal that is on the inside of the plastic. Anyway I hooked the negative up first this time and pulled the fuse for the positive before I put the positive back in. There were no sparks this time because there was no current in the wire and the amp was fine and has been fine ever since. I had never had that happen with any other amp other than my Crunch. I have always hooked up the positive wire and then the ground and this was the only time it ever did that. Maybe it's something with Maxxsonics amps. Oh well, it has never given me a problem because of that so I'm not worried about it.

No problem. Do yourself a favor, if you're planning on building a new box take a look at maybe doing some aeroports. In several situations I've seen them be .8-1+ db's louder than a standard slot port. I can tell you in my case what I found out. Without changing internal volume at all I went from a 4cuft after displacement box with woofers and subs up doing a 145.7. To a 4cuft box after displacement with aeroports and subs up and woofers back to a 148.1. I don't know what made the biggest impact, if it was firing the port back instead of up. Or if it was by adding aeroports to the setup. Anyway the gain in spl was 2.4 dbs with only making those two changes. Aeroports are the shit. And by using the least ammount to get the desired port area is the best way to go. In the box I have now I have 4 4" aero's which equal out to 50.24sqin of port area. If I were to use 2 6" aero's which would be 56.52sqin of port I would see a slight rise in tuning freq that could be compensated by adding length to the port, but I would also see a gain in spl due to the two ports making the enclosure more efficient that running 4 ports. I have yet to try this, but when I do I'm not changing anything but making a pannel that will screw onto my box that will have the 2 6's and 4 4's and then metering it to see which is actually louder. I'll post the results when I get around to doing this. First I gotta add some new amps before I start doing surgery to my box. Good luck with the build!!!

I burried one solution in there and it is to decrease the internal airspace of the box. In a smaller box the rise isn't as much as a larger one, but you will also lose efficiency of the sub in a smaller enclosure so you better have the power to compensate for the loss. I've also been told that tuning the box to a higher frequency will also help bring the rise down some, but that may go hand in hand with shrinking the airspace down I'm not really sure.

I'll save you a little trouble and tell you about how loud that car is without you even metering it. If you aren't skipping the deck you aren't doing over a 142. It's jus the way that the focus dash kits are. They just snap into place and don't support the deck very well. I tried Alpine, JVC, Eclipse, and finally Pioneer with a changer under the seat to get it to stop skipping. Also if you haven't broke the welds that hold the back wiper in place within the first week of the install it probably isn't all that loud either. Good luck though, on the wall build. The car isn't all that big and it's gonna be kinda hard to fit that many woofers in there in the proper airspace. The cargo area alone only has 9 usable cubes before you get almost to the roof of the car. Anyway if you get this done anytime soon I wanna see it in action. I just looked back, and 6 15's I doubt that unless it's gonna be a sealed clamshell or an outlaw type compression chamber. I really wanna see 6 15's in a Focus ZX3 :01nocomment8so:

Like he said after finding ac current of the amp and then finding ac voltage of the amp both on the output side you will divide the ac voltage by the ac current and that will tell you what your box rise is. For example, my setup sets at 1.2 ohms nominal and when rise is calculated it is 3.9 ohms reactive. The reactive load is the actual load the amplifier sees and also determines what kind of power it will make. So if you have an amp that makes 3K at 1 ohms and your box rise is in the neighborhood of mine your amp isn't going to make nearly that kind of power, but in my situation I have a 3K amp and with my rise I'm still making 1900 watts at almost 4 ohms. That is some serious power to be made at that impedence. That's why in my situation I plan on doing an amp per woofer in the future to help some with the rise. If I split the rise between two amps then each amp will see less rise then if the subs were wired to one large amp. In my case I will have each amp wired to .5 ohms and if they carry the same trend as when wired to 1 ohms on the large amp each amp should see around 2 ohms after box rise. The amps I plan on getting run about 1800 watts at 1 ohm, so in the area of 2200 or more at .5 ohms. They will more than likely be putting out 1600 watts or possibly more at 2 ohms. This will effectivly give me an increase of 1300 watts, which is adding more than half the power I had before. This should also result in a gain in spl. It might not be too great, but I would expect around a db or a little more. Other variables also may affect it such as the efficiency of the woofer. In my case I do believe that my woofers take more power to move than most, so I may see a slightly larger gain then some because the woofer is in the range of power that it opperates best in. Another way to help out with the box rise is to put the woofer in a smalle enclosure. By cutting down the box size it will also help the rise at the amp. You could also try stepping up port area to get the rise down some, but this can also result in a smaller box with a frequency that the woofer isn't comfortable playing in. Most people never even take the time to find out what their amps are actually putting out. I've heard a lot of guys that have a Sundown 3000D say well I'm putting 3K to each woofer and they're more than likely wrong unless they've clamped the amp and measured the outputs and figured for rise. Don't assume that if you buy a 2K amp that is rated to do 2K at 1 ohm that it will do that in your setup. It will more than likely do that 2K, but only if your reactive load is at that 1 ohm that it is designed to put out the rated power at. A friend of mine has 16 Sound Stream PCA2000D's on 8 solo X 18's. He is amp shopping for next year because the most he gets out of a pair of these amps strapped is 1600 watts. They have the potential to do 4000 watts but in his setup they are very inefficient. To make a long story short they only way you will know what your box rise is, is to test for it. It's also good to do this to know how much power you are actually putting out so you know where you are able to get gains at by adding more power if necessary. Sorry about my short novel here, but hopefully it helps you understand a little better.

I believe that 85 would be switched+12volts, 86 would be ground, 30 is also +12 volts, and 87 is to the amps.

Those were some good videos man. I had fun at the show too, and I can't wait until I can go to another one and get a chance to finish this time. It sucks that the police shut it down before it was even over. They just didn't want me to take everyone's money

I love's me the buckeyes. They are my favorite college team. I was born and raised in Ohio, and I now live in North Carolina. It sucks because I don't always get to watch the games, but none the less they are the greatest!!!!!!!!!!!

Stay away from those Audio Pipe amps. They are complete crap. There is a guy that was on Team Roadquake with 3 of the 3000's on 6 15's and he was only making something like 4000 watts out of three of those amps. They will NOT do the power that they claim they will. I am going to be selling my Crunch GP3000D and if you're interested let me know. You won't be able to get one of these new ever again. Maxxsonics is discontinuing them and replacing them with a new amp next year. Mine is in almost mint condition except for a minor scuff to the heatsink. Pm me if you're interested in getting something done. I can tell you that you won't be able to touch one of these amps for under $550 anywhere on the net right now unless it's used. This amp will run at .5 ohms all day long with the proper extra battery upgrade and would even help to add a ho alt with it, but can be run at .5 and has without a ho alt.

Check the subs to make sure that they are all in phase. With that many coils it's possible to have one wired out of phase, and that would affect your number quite a bit. Also what frequency did you burp the truck at? I know you wanted a box tuned super low for daily, but you can't expect to get great numbers tuned that low with the limited amount of space you have.

Some big long word I don't know how to spell, but it's used to glue subwoofers and also for hobby use like model airplanes and cars together.

5 min epoxy made by loctite will work awesome. You should more than likely use CA glue, but that's what failed on my subs so instead of regluing it with CA I used the 2 part loctite epoxy. That shit is way stronger than CA. Use it for anything and it will hold forever.

This is just an idea too, but I'm curious what a Nightshade would do in the setup with no changes. I bet you would see at least a 148.5 or better out of it.

Jake, you should throw the meter in the kick for the hell of it and see what kind of number you'll pull there. Also are you going to be bringing your meter on Saturday? If so would it be possible to use it for a little bit? I understand if you aren't going to take it since it's kind of a pain in the ass to bring along. Anyway good job man. I'm really impressed with the single 15. How are the 2 1500D's per 3100 holding up for you? That would be exactly how I plan on running my car for now and I just wondered if they hold up on the single battery per 2 amps.

Imo, 15's are nice, but if you are worried about space why not do a pair of 12's. Or you could even do a single 18. A single 18 has more cone area than 2 12's. I have a small hatch and happen to have 2 12's in it in 4 cuft after displacement. My point is that if you lack in space use what space you have to house woofers that can fit. I have the space for 15's in my car but I went with 12's. I'm not disapointed at all since I'm doing awesome numbers out of the 12's, and they sound bad ass for a daily ride. It's just something to think about instead of trying to cram as much crap as you can in a space that won't hold it.

You're right it may not be him, but they are still disrespecting his name. Haters

That's no way to treat a legend.

You could do it if the amps are strappable. In your case I don't think that they are so you would need a Maxxlink to do it.

Here's another that was kind of cool. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYUL8unD3uo...feature=related