Neo_frog

Damn you Ed. You always ninja my responses.

Component sets using a crossover work like a normal single speaker. A crossover is an electronic or mechanical means of separating frequencies in the audio range so that they can be rendered most efficiently in a multi driver system. The crossover just sharply cuts the frequency band on either end of a specific range so you limit the undesireable reproduction of sound (or destruction) in tweeters/woofers. It will separate the input into two ranges, filter them, and send them to the appropriate output. Three ways are somewhat the same, but they have a "midrange" for enhanced coverage of middle frequencies.

So is your av. It looks like she's actually saying my pussy's so fine.

This guy always blends some really nice shit. I find it pretty funny.

You're best bet is to plan ahead. If you know you'll be changing lanes, turn it down ahead of time. One of the many sacrifices we make for bass.

somerandomguy with somerandompost lol j/p I personally like buttercream frosting, but if I had to choose it would be whipped. Easier to take down, less rich.

Agreed. 18 FTFW

Well you are 16 and have no license. How do you plan on putting a $3500 system in?

The Memphis one did me well when I used it (and others). It works EXTREMELY well for getting a strong signal, but if you clip it at all, you start getting really funky reactions and signals. Nothing damaging, but weird nonetheless. Like I said, it starts around 5V on the dial, but I was getting 6+ with the DMM. Also heavy clipping in the line driver input will make it act funky. I don't have a lot of experience with other line drivers, just a lot with Memphis and a few random others I helped install.

Is this directed at me? First off, this is not subjective matter, so my 'opinions' would be invalid. I just explained what I've seen with these batteries, so you are obviously not paying attention to posts. You've never used a triple post battery, let alone run a 16V system. If you already know all of this, then you should know how to charge your battery with the appropriate alternator, so I won't help you with that answer. This immediate know-it-all attitude you show will make people not want to help you. Since you've "been down that road" then everybody who posts here will be wrong. Go ask your buddy for advice since he's supposedly running multiple 16V batteries and should have the right answers since we don't.

Gotcha. If you get one, just check it like a normal head unit with an o-scope. Some of them get really hairy really fast. On a side note, uou'll be lucky to get over 5V from an 8V line driver, which is still significant gains from a stock hu. Good luck.

It's ridiculous right? They need help, then shoot down all advice cause either they know or their buddy's know better. w/e I'm out.

What head unit are you running?

You are only using a portion of the battery to run a 12V system. If you are only charging at 12V, you are getting shit for voltage anyways. Even charging the 16v post at ~17.5v-17.8v, I am only seeing 12.1-12.2v on the 12v side. That is how it will be due to how that battery works..... the 12 volt post on the battery is only using part of the battery, only some of the cells, to supply 12v. Then all of the cells are used to supply the 16v. The alt is supposed to be keeping the voltage up on the 16 volt side, so your 12V side gets charged, although weak anyways. You are only charging certain cells and seeing a higher voltage, while the rest of your battery is neglected. They are designed for 16V application. But what do we know. Why don't you just ask your 'experienced' buddy rather than telling us we're wrong?

I live in Crown Point. Yes, you can run those batteries with just the 12V post, but without a 16V charge, you are neglecting that portion of the battery and it will go bad.

So...you have a 16V battery to add to your 12V system? I don't think you know what you're getting into with this. Sell the battery and buy a big 12V one. You are going to be buying and modifying a ton of shit otherwise. 16V is a hassle with daily drivers.

I have to say that's the coolest story I've ever heard. edit: bro

So who all can make it to this? I'm going to try to have something running by then, but I know it won't be complete. It's for a good cause and I'm all about helping babies.

Why is everybody so hell bent on port area? If you ran with 6-8sq in of port per cube, you would be fine. Smaller ports will also yield better power handling and more tuning availability. There is no set "rule" for port area. Just people's references, and you'll see tons of opinions on it. there's nothing wrong with small ports.

It's up to you. Glue is 100x stronger than screws, but using both will accomplish the effect. It's more HOW you use the screws, not IF.

I once left mine outside during the winter and it froze...

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/44109-decafs-screweddemo-collection/

^ This.

Top of the line shit at Best Buy? And they sound good because they are in a sound room. Not in a car.

Good communication and great sale experience. He bought both of my LVL5s quickly and we completed the sale in minutes. No jacking around either.