Neo_frog

I think you shouldn't bother trying to double up the head units until you understand how one works. It's going to be more trouble wiring another one in there (especially since you would have to pull the old one out anyways) than to just put the new one in. And I doubt it has inputs being that old so you couldn't do it properly anyways. *EDIT: If your 6-disc changer is attached to the HU then you most likely have inputs, but it's taken up by the changer. Something in there would have to go.

A very good read. Nice find, RHoughton! EDIT: spelling

Umm...why wouldn't you just install the new Alpine in place of the old one?

You don't know what what is? The values or what the variables are? The Le may play a role for advanced boxes, but for most it's not necessary to play with. Why not try to find some similar drivers with Le listed and plug some numbers in to find out what's affected. I'd like to know too so keep me posted if you do! *Oh and Sd is just surface area of the cone if I misunderstood what you were asking.

#1 is pretty much worthless in car audio #2 is probably the best of the four #3 is an awesome battery and also a good choice but < #2 #4 I hear good things about, but pretty sure it doesn't compare to #2

As far as converting sq cm to sq in x (sq.cm.) * 1 (in) * 1 (in) 2.54 cm * 2.54 cm I'm assuming that's what you were asking since mH isn't a distance measure. I tried to find the specs, but still looking...

I love debating with someone who knows what they're talking about. But glad I could give my input.

You are completely correct in that post. I'm not arguing what the law is or how it applies. But someone cannot, having only that law handy, design a box that has a wide, flat response. You're correct when you say that lowering your f3 will "broaden" the range it will play by either adding power, size, etc.., but that's only because subs are limited to what they can effectively reproduce in any enclosure. A 6.5" speaker in a sub box would act as if it were in an infinite baffle application. Dropping box size would raise the f3 making the speaker reproduce a "broader" range of frequencies. It works either way, but you are not wrong. Not many know of the law, but they do at the same time. We all know that a bigger enclosure will play lows better. And smaller boxes require more power to compensate for lack of efficiency. If you look at all the equations and "pretend" to raise and lower values on either side, you can see how Hoffman's law applies. But even using THOSE equations will not help you design a box with a flat response. And I might have just figured out where we're missing each others' points. He said "broader range", and I read that as "flat response". So our ideas about the question might be conflicting.

T-nuts are the shit for mounting heavy subs. But if you gotta use screws, just make sure you torque them properly so you're not busting the heads.

All that law shows you is the relation of box size, efficiency, and cube of f3. It has nothing to do with what he asked. You can't use that law to determine a flat response from a box design. But maybe a general idea of how to power and how big the box should be.

Just check for it before you apply it. Worst case scenario, you miss it and just tear it off and try a new piece. It won't just happen while sitting there.

Well I guess that's what I'll do then. Thanks guys!

First off, this will be my first time going to a big car audio/show event so I'm not sure how they are run. I'm thinking about registering for Bass Race for SBN, but I'm worried that I won't have time to go look at everyone else's stuff! If it's really going to be an issue, then I'll just spectate, but I really want to compete because I think I would be a formidable opponent in 149.9. What should I do?

100% correct. It really is amazing.

That's not quite what he's looking for. I think that program will do you good as far as seeing your frequency response. That's honestly the best way to do it... You could really apply everything in car audio to graphs and seeing it helps put everything into perspective.

Yeah, I meant to ask...where is this deal eh?

Most of that fabric is stretchy too so it'll conform to complicated pieces if you place and stretch correctly. Only thing you gotta look for is "runs" in the fabric (similar to nylon) that you can't see until you stretch the piece you're wrapping with. Other than that, it's great to work with. I use Loctite Super Adhesive Permanent. It's $14 a can, but it does the trick. Just follow directions on it for the best adhesion and works on anything.

Yes. With that you shouldn't have too much of a problem assuming you have 16V alts on a separate charging system. I'm running one 300A 12V alt with four HC2400s in the bank and two HC1400s under the hood with 14.7-15.3V MLA and I power my 4KWs fine.

I love pwnage.

There's really too many factors to answer accurately, but more than likely a wall will be louder than a normal box.

It's not often you see a mattress just chillin on the highway. Let alone run it over...

USPS really sucks with the delivery confirmation. I once sent a package to Pennsylvania and after making its way to Wisconsin, suddenly turned up at the buyer's door... They don't have any reliable tracking. At least not out by me.

All I gotta say is, the glass is incredible! Immediate communication, sealed deal in 15 minutes, super fast shipping with outstanding packaging! I'll definitely be contacting you again for more. Great job mang. Only sad part is my camera had a meltdown so no pics...but you guys will see the glass incorporated in my build.

That's why I'm scared to use tools. It's not always my car I'm taking apart and I'm too cheap to risk scratches.

I'm willing to take the challenge. I haven't had a car yet that needed anything but a phillips to pull the dash apart. But I must admit, I almost gave up on a couple of them... Work out those finger tip muscles!