Neo_frog

Why is it that I see people running one 300A alternator to power up to 12000W like it's nothing? I have a better setup than most, but I continue to see everybody out do me power wise (wattage). This setup in my car cannot handle a Memphis MCD4KW. 5 Kinetik HC2400s (1 under hood, 4 in bank) Iraggi 300A alternator Big 3 with double runs of 1/0 3/8" copper buss bars in front and 1/4" aluminum buss bars in back 4 runs (+) 1/0 front to back all soldered All grounds bolted through chassis, stripped paint, soldered, etc... MLA module Pro Series Dual Volt 14.7 - 16.1 Seriously, this is starting to really piss me off. I've redone this wiring shit so many times to make it better and find my problem... I've done everything I can do short of rip out my AC and put another alt in there. But I'm seriously considering it. Please give me ideas.

It is all sound deadener, but Dynamat is better. go with the good stuff the first time around so you don't do it again later. Sniper knows a little about sound deadener since his dad tests the stuff so maybe shoot him a pm.

Believe it or not, I know all the words to "Cars That Go Boom" without listening to it.

Same concept as power wire. If you run a strong signal into shitty wire, you'll lose quality. However, you won't "gain" quality by using bigger ones unless you're currently using shitty wire and are upgrading. You'll just get the intended signal from the hu.

Just rub it along the contacts on both sides like you were erasing something and attempt to make 'em shiny. (Doesn't always work) It really depends on how old it is too.. EDIT: Don't abuse them though. It's just a 1st echelon fix. If it doesn't work then you didn't lose anything but eraser shavings.

Well the ones I listed are 6-channel Monster RCAs in one loom and very flexible. Never had a problem and they've been put in and ripped out several times. The only downfall is that you need to extend the sub RCA to reach the amp (depending on your setup). I run mine into a line driver next to my 4-channel and run more Monster Cable from there to my sub amp. Great signal.

My old Pioneer had the same problem actually.. Take a pencil eraser and clean the contacts on face and unit, then put it on and wiggle it. Could just be bad contacts. Especially if it's cold. If not, then might be internal. EDIT: That's what worked for mine anyways..

well it really depends on your price range. They can be really expensive. Here are the ones I use: http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-MONSTER-CABLE-MPCI...%3A1%7C294%3A50

Well depending on how many runs of power you are doing, plan on how you want under the hood setup, and plan amp placement and everything before cutting wires. If you're getting extra batteries, compensate for that too. I would even suggest building the enclosure and running your wires afterwards. You can even go as far as running a ground wire from front to back also if you don't want to drill any holes in the chassis. And yes, you should always leave a few feet of slack and cut as necessary. As sar as amps go, the BLs will take 1000W easily or more. I would suggest run one 2000W amp across Dual 1s parallel/series to 1-ohm or two 1000W amps, one to each Dual 2 ohm parallel to 1-ohm each. Impedance matching is crucial. You can find all kinds of websites with sub wiring diagrams. Just stick with your amp and buy the Dual 1s. Maybe later you can upgrade to a SAZ-3000 or similar amp to raise the wattage once you learn how to clean up your power.

I don't know your experience with box building, but I have to say this anyways.. Don't be like I used to be and rush through your builds so you can hear bass and impress people then realize it's a shit build. Take your time, test fit and measure over and over and over. Think about everything before you do it. Make lists if you have to. If you go through each step before the build phase you'll most likely find something you didn't think of initially and alter your procedure. I always make a check list. If you have any doubts, STOP. Ask someone on here or make a build log and ask questions. Nobody will shame you for not knowing what you're doing, they will help you. But they will if you act like a know-it-all and have a shitty build like I did. I had to learn the hard way, but I learned. Go slow. Never rush your builds and have fun doing it. These guys are world class car audio geniuses on here and can point you in the right direction. And take criticism positively. Just tryin to help out, bro.

I doubt the stock alt is 200A. If it is then more power to you and you'll be fine with extra batteries and 2000W Bls are a lot better choice for your application and will sound very good. Just remember if you don't brace your box, it will just flex to shit and rip apart and the whole setup will be a complete waste.

Four would honestly be better with those M1s. Like said above ^ just build it as if it were for very powerful subs so when you upgrade you will just swap out. i.e. brace the shit out of it. Look at Steve's Tahoe box and Hoopty build and grab ideas from that as far as how to brace. As far as batteries and alts go, we need to know what kind of car you're in. I ran my first wall on stock alt with two extra batteries under the wall 2000W. But it all depends on the type of battery and the current your alt is rated at. Someone here WILL know what you're running if you say what you're driving. And when you upgrade to 4 BTLs, you planning on adding more amps, batteries and alternators right? That'll be an 8k - 16k system if done right.

Well with that electrical system you'd be better off with running two 1500ds at 1-ohm. If you haven't bought your subs yet, then figure out what your best bet would be. But personally I would run one 3000D at 1-ohm on two D1s.

Now when you say a 2000W amp, are you talking about the Hifonics amp you mentioned after it or two amps? I don't recommend running 2 M1s on 2000W. They really aren't that great of a sub IMO and they can't take much more than 500 a piece. I would even recommend less since you're new to car audio. Depending on the coils try to wire to a 4-ohm total load to be safe with that amp. I just don't want to see you blow them before you can run them. Your enclosure does not have to be ported, but it's probably better for those subs if you did. Call Jay at Memphis and have him give you some specs on the box. PM me for a number if you don't have it. For optimal sound, your best bet is to seal off the front face of the wall from the back of the car. What kind of wall are you doing? Just a flat forward facing wall with a port, or something different? For those subs, you really dont need any fiberglass. It always helps in solidifying the box, but it's not necessary at low power. It's really your call on that. You can just build a box with a port and make a front fascia out of MDF that conforms to your car to create the "wall" effect.

And he will go deaf way before you. I don't bother running extra speakers with a ton of bass. I'll install them but keep them off until a show or something. I generally only use my front door speakers. In all of my rap songs, I know the words up until the bass hits and after it ceases I know the words again. But in between I could care less what they are saying. I'm humming the bass.

I sat in 150+ on music in my first wall daily for six months and I still pass a DOT physical and military deployment screenings. Very strict hearing policies. I think Randy mentioned he takes those hearing tests too and he hits way more than me in his. Men lose their high and midrange hearing over time. It takes a lot of bass to be damaging to your hearing. It's the 15 midrange speakers and tweeters they put behind their head that make them go deaf and they don't know it because the powerful bass waves distort the perception of sound while dampening the pain threshhold. Hey since I'm coming up to see you anyways I'll bring mine. For a price, I'll make that drive to meter whatever you want, but it's a ways out for me.

Don't make any kind of permanent setup just yet, but hook it all up and try every application to find the optimal SPL. Every car is different, and it's all about trial and error. Once you find the best sound, make it look pretty. In most applications though, facing forward would be better.

Excellent choice on the TV! Aren't they wonderful? I have a Samsung in my bedroom but I kinda stick with Sony Bravia for my movie watching. You got a hell of a deal.

It's in his sig. 11.75 cuft wall after displacement tuned to 31.08 hz

What kind of amps were you running though Bigg Boy? I'm running 4000W on 300A alt, 4 runs 1/0, MLA module and I see almost 2V drop at full tilt.

Wow I actually forgot about this question. I feel like Billy Madison answering the Industrial Revolution question. For the record, I do not have a clipping problem and if anyone's noticed, I've told other people to do the same thing you're telling me. I tune with a DMM and I know all of my numbers by heart from the charts and I use good equipment. I was only asking if it was TRUE. And like Billy said, a simple "no" would have done just fine.

Too bad.. I just sold 16 of them recently. I would have to go with bigbody on this one. The PRs are kick ass for their price and they come with a lifetime warranty. You really can't beat it. You can talk most dealers into dropping the price also. You could probably get 15s for 80 bucks new with the right smooth talking. I would say do 4 on your amp. Any size will work. You'll be very impressed.

Not too sure about verizon, but the way I've done it is have the ppl I'm buying it from just call up the company and say they are going to Europe and they need their phone unlocked to continue service since they are still paying and they usually do it right there. Hasn't failed me yet. No effort required. I literally did it again about a week ago. I bought my buddy's AT&T phone and he called and said what's above ^ and they unlocked it. Now I use it for T-Mobile service. EDIT: This is the SIM card method btw.

It really depends on the bitrate of the MP3s for quality. Higher the better. An iPod will do just fine if you can hook it up and use high quality rips with no clipping. Downloads tend to have bad quality or clipping so rip from your own CDs.

I'm guessing there's not, but I heard once that there is a module you can put into a system that smooths out clipping as it goes through it with RCAs. Is this true? And if so, where can I get them?