CR Boom

I would not, but that is up to you.. It will not blow anything up, but you may be leaving a little bit on the table..

No problem man that is why this site rocks,,,,, Remember to put the processor some where that you can get to the adjustments...

updates guys,, what is going on???/

Ok I will try my best to explain this to you. Assuming you are keeping your stock radio, that is the only reason for this processor..... 1) stock radio, your speaker outputs from your radio goes into the input (speaker wires coming ouy of the box) of your processor, remember to hook them up correctly, lf -lf, rf to rf, etc,etc... 2) Processor out puts, to amp "rca wires" 2A) ON THE 4 CHANNEL AMP, RF to channel 1 input on amp, LF to channel 2 input on amp, RR to channel 3 input on amp, LR to channel 4 input on amp. 2b) subs from proc to sub amp. 3) Amps to crossovers, and then speakers out put 1 froout put 1 from amp to the "box you are talking about" YOOU HAVE TO USE THESE WITH YOUR SET UP which is your individual speaker crossover hook your RF door speakers to this box out put 2 from amp to the 2nd "box you are talking about" which is your individual speaker crossover hook your LF door speakers to this box out put 3 from amp to the 3rd "box you are talking about" which is your individual speaker crossover hook your RR speakers to this box out put 4 from amp to the 4th "box you are talking about" which is your individual speaker crossover hook your LR speakers to this box 4) I WOULD SUGGEST ONCE YOU GET THAT DONE GET SOME HELP FROM SOMEONE , TO HELP YOU SET THE PROCESSOR AND THE GAINS ON YOUR AMPS. OR WE CAN TRY TO TALK YOU THRU IT......

Looking for another 7K2d or 10k

Looks good man, Nice numbers...

Did you fix it yet?

Nightshade, untill I can sell them. can you help me with a box. If so I'am looking to use 3 12's that will put me at 1.33ohms. starting from the passenger side, with the port on the driver side. There are no aero ports here, so I will have to make one, so if you think on big one 8" is better than multiplies, just a standard pvc size that I can heat and flare. Oldschool, I read your build log after I had my subs ordered.. congrats on your switch and bump up in DB's, sweet for a trunk car..

Did battery test, all subs in phase..

DT == I did that, I have a Audio control 3.1, with a master volume. I have to roll it up nice and easy, I get 1 more DB before going into protect.

It is a four door mid size truck, comparable to a 4-door (ranger, S-10)...... Great wall ( So cool)....

I know the stetsom won't run when wired at 1/2 ohm nom.. so I say impediance rise is not very high, I'am going to clamp it soon to see what it really is. The amp is at 106 volt ac, no clip,

They are dual 1's... could go with the 3 each wired in parallel, then go series, should be at 1.5 then the power will be up to 2000+ each I know about the space that shit was tight to get in there, The more I think about it the box may just suck ass. the two middle subs are tight against the top lid and the bottom of the sub is tight against the port, the two outers are tight against the out sides, it did do 147+ but big f'ing deal. I feel the same as you it should be over 150, 153 would be sweet... What is your feelings on, do subs need to be equally shrouded??? If you think we can get more out of three with the aero's I'am up to build again..lol... after all that is part of the love.... here is the steps I think is going to happen. 1) Going to build another sealed box to double check the res. FReq of truck... 2) pull this box out and get rid of the internal bracing for the glass windows 3) RE-measure internal space ( make decision to go smaller) I am pretty sure it is at 2.25 cubes each after bracing and displacement. 3.5) the only 45 in the box, is in the bottom, back, wall behind the port, maybe finish the rest in 45,s. 4) RE-TUNE THE PORT 5) Build another with three 12's and aeros all you guys have to do is give me a "it should be louder"

These are max outside dimensions. looking at the box from the front of vehicle Max of box Tall 21" Top Width 48" Bottom Width 60" Depth 48" Opening of port Max Tall 12 on outsides of cab 13.5 in middle.. Top width 38.5 Bottom width 45.0 I only tuned the port, never tuned the middle section and window size "port"

Nightshade, hell yah I will take your help. The box sits on the bed rails, inside a cap, and comes thru the back window... The opening at the window is not as big, I will measure tonight. The box now is double layer, with steel braces that are screwed and glassed to the box, and heavy as shit ... Did you take a look at my build to see, how the box is and what I have to work with. The port is that big because, I used the port calculator, and because of the of the longer stroke it said to increase port size..

I had those problems at 140db. Now the roof it self is good at 147+. I added 3/4 mdf glued to the roof and screwed to beams, then spray foamed every hole, then put the sound deadner over the mdf and roof bows..... Go to my build log and you will see, worked really good.....

remember guys...... I want to get to 150 so bad..... I think the current box has some more in her, but not 2+db's ..... I have some braces to hold the glass in, that could be holding back so air and then retuning the port a little higher to the truck..

Current set-up 4 re-mx's on stetsom 7k2d, at 2-ohms 5200 watts 1300 each 147.6db I think they are under powered, can't run at 1/2 amp goes in protect. Don't want to recone subs are new don't have the money for another amp SO. new box. three 12's at 6200watts 2075 each will it be louder????????? or will I lose or 2 subs at 7200 watts 3600 each will it be as loud????? has any one tried this before???

Congrats best of luck man.....

I don't know how many of them it it would of took to kick my ass, But I know how many that they were going to use.... Ron White

Don't send to hot of a signal to your amp....IE more voltage than the max it can take... My suggestions. leave your head unit flat.... Put a test tone cd in your Deck 40hz or so, use a dmm and measure voltage don't go over the imput limit of your amp.. then set the gain on your amp to the voltage that goes with the rms output of your amp..,. This is kind of confusing but if you don't have a O-SCOPE, that is the only way I have to do it... Watch steves video's on how to set gains....

I have worked with lithium for a couple of years,,,, This is going to get real real interesting....

Mix some black in clear coat, keep on putting on layers untill you get the level of darkness that you want.

I turned the damage into my insurance company and they then got it from the towing company.... Call your insurance Comp.

I would say multiple amps, run each at 1ohm or higher, less amp draw and a little more head room.. It is easier for a amp to run just one speaker at 1 ohm, than four speakers wired at 1 ohm. I believe that you can hear a Dynamic difference.. I'm running one amp at 2ohm currently and hope to be running 2 each at 1ohm soon.. What I have learned with big power is, if you can do it, Get as much if not more alternator to match your amp draw that way your not playing of your Batteries. This will also keep your volts up and more watts.For every day use this is nice. And it is easy to tell, you know your resting voltage of your batts, if your voltage goes lower than that you are using all alternator power plus also pulling from your batts. Example: 1 stetsom 7K2d at 2 ohms, Batts resting at 13.1 Exp1...1- 250amp mechman + 1-stock 60-80 alt on music Voltage drops to 12.9 volts....pulling off balteries.. EXP2- 2-250 amp mechman + 1- stock 60-80 alt on music Voltage drops to 14.1 vollts, more watts and more dynamic beats... Burps EXP1 I didn't even bother EXP2- at 2-0hm voltage 13.3 at 1/2-ohm voltage dropped to 11.1.. where I stopped testing before bad shit happened.. With the voltage drop abusing the amp at 1/2 is not even worth it untill I get my third mechman hooked up, the power gain is minimum...