Chris from Mi

I've got a 15" D2 Elevation audio Execution rebuilt with a titanium former, 8 layer flatwound copper coils. I had an orion 2500D powerin it without even breaking a sweat. I dont wanna see it go but i need the $, here's me email if you want more info/ pictures [email protected]

i sent db-r a message, and apparently they no longer repair these amps but they did recommend that i take it here: amp medics Anyone ever hear of them? At the moment i was running the amp at 1 ohm, i've burped it before at .5 and i know the previous owner was a competitor so i know for a fact it was run at .5 or lower before i got it and that was 4 years ago. Nothing looks burned up, but i did notice that a couple of the caps on the rca end of the amp have black tips, which i never seen before (if it were ink or something), how about you guys take a look (sorry for the quality) right now i'm f'n broke from bein in school so i dont have any $ to fix it. I can do some minor repairs if it only involves soldering, but till i can figure out whats wrong with it, i have to run my sub at a lousy 200 instead of 2500 ...not

cool, thanks

humm, i noticed that n8ball has 4 of these guys, so n8, do you know if the amp has a specific light when it goes into protect? the only light i have now and have had since i've owned this amp is a red light.

power light is on (not sure if it has a protect light) what would i be checking for on the output? just ac voltage? cause all i'm gettin is what sounds to be like a dc pop through the sub

well, after owning this amp for about 4 years, it finally took a poop today (i think) got in my car started playing at about 1/3 volume, the sub cuts out, and now all i get is a constant click from the sub (about 2 clicks per second) unplugged the rca's, same thing, getting proper voltage at amp. Anyone ever heard of this happening? No burning smell or anything coming from the amp.

man made global warming is a myth. scienists have proven time and time again that the earth goes through a regular cycle of warming and cooling. your paper is cool and all, but shouldnt be confused with anything other than fiction. That is definitely true that the Earth does indeed go through a regular cycle of warming and cooling. However, the rate at which the temperature of the Earth is increasing is much faster than what the norm is, and wouldn't you know it, but the amount of carbon dioxide has a direct correlation with the temperature of the Earth, and we've been creating excess amounts by burning fossil fuels. What a strange coincidence. Also, due to the increasing temperatures the polar ice caps have been retreating. Not only this, but the albedo affect of ice is far greater than the ocean; meaning that ice reflects far more energy than water does. So as the ice retreats there is an exponential increase in the temperature of surrounding waters. The Earth is definitely very dynamic, but how far can we push the limits of living sustainably?

Hmm maybe Im reading it wrong? Dunno. Click Here<-- This is the specs for it, I got the n212's No worries, learning is life. But the link takes me to the specs, but do not specify D1 or d2. Knowing this will be important when figuring out an amp, and how it is wired. Yeah theres an option there that lets you select whether its d1 or d2 all the specs are custom made for the buyer and they machine it, then send it. I know, lol, the point is do you have dual 1 ohm or dual 2 ohm. Im soo confused haha, I have no idea. what are you confused about? The sub has an option of having to coils per sub that have a resistance of about 1 ohm or 2 ohm each. heres a link to a great site for info, if your not going to be installing these for a while, i suggest you read this sight for many hours to get a hang of whats going on. www.bcae1.com

if your looking for a decent set of front speakers, i have a set of scosche efx 5.25 component speakers f/s, 40 shipped

its very simple, you are drawing way too much current through that small of wire, you need to upgrade to 1/0 with big 3 done and a second battery wouldnt hurt. Running an amp like that under those conditions will fry it.

whats your price range? oh, and for wire i would go hereKnu Konceptz wire look under amp wiring kits

damn, if only i had $

take a picture of the amp settings

the only thing i can think of is that if you have an automatic the load on the engine will make it rev a few hundred rpm lower if it is in gear than if it is out of gear, that extra little bit may be enough to keep your voltage up while in park

It could definitely be on the larger side but unless i build the box in the trunk that is the absolute largest enclosure i can fit back there. The guy that build the sub said the sub performs best in a small enclosure with a ton of port, (he recommended 2.4 with 80 sq in but i had to get it to fit)

looks good, its awesome that they starting making those x's again, damn good subs for the price, a buddy of mine had 4 of the older 10's off 1600 rms and it got down. What is the enclosure going to be?

thanks, i finally got around to installing the 2nd skin i won on here about a year ago lol, the sheet metal made getting the doors back on a bitch, but i love how my front stage sounds

Whats up guys, i just installed my 2nd system and wanted to know what i can do to make it louder! heres whats goin on to start off with: some deadened doors: and some peerless mids- only 10 bucks a pop on parts express, couldnt pass it up the woofer: custom 15" d2 8 layer vented flatwound copper coil (next to a flea market 15" lol) box: 2.2 tuned to 35 60 sq in, its carpeted and turned sideways now, pics in a bit amp: orion 2500D h/u: alpine cda- 105 amp: jbl gto 75.4 oh, car is an 02 neon 4d.

when installing anything in the dash if it wont fit, dont just try to muscle it in there, you'll probably wind up breaking something. Removing door handles- slip a rag behind the handle to remove the spring clip Removing door panels- use a putty knife to slip behind door panel to pry off at each clip Always remove neg battery terminal anytime you tamper with a car put the clutch on your drill to its highest possible setting when drilling through firewall, if it grabs you wont hurt your wrist/smash your knuckles

^x2 thats a lanzar?? damn the only lanzar stuff i've seen are cases that big with 1/5 of the internals

g/f bed ftw

bass boost: boosts a certain frequency (sometimes variable) I NEVER use bass boost on my amp because it usually adds distortion (only sometimes on my hu if the song severely lacks in bass and i want to add a bit more when my sub level is at max on my hu and i know its not clipping) subwoofer level boosts/cuts the gain for the entire frequency range that the subwoofer is operating at.

its simple, if you still havnt bought an amp, buy one with high level inputs on it; no need for a high to low level converter. If its a car what i usually do is CAREFULLY solder some speaker wire to where the tinsels are soldered to the factory harness on the speakers in the back deck, this way there is no splicing of the factory harness. run a remote wire to the fusebox (usually acc) wire the amp up and your done

damn how big is that port? its huge! and ^x2 you could have easily used half the screws and the box would be just as strong assuming you used wood glue. oh, and one last thing, that box would prbably like some bracing in the middle, i usually use 3/4" or 1" wooden dowel. Other than that the box looks great, how much airspace?