Coolwazabi

thats what i was thinking too but would it happen so quickly ? its like it was running great then suddenly like poo... same with the catalytic converter ?

No answers ? Guess I got everyone stumped.

realmofexcursion.com and voltage and even music quality plays into the factory and getting the right rms out.. if you tune your whole setup with a 92kbps cd and play a 320kbps CD.. will effect your original settings.

its a quick simple way to do it yet... but.. if the amp can't do the power or is clipping your not gonna know until it too late.. BURNIN !!! smelly... aww crap... fried

yep... gotta set it right.. thats why reputable amps are more popular.. cause they put of the RMS + more... a lil cushion i guess

wtfff.... how did this pass inspection ?? its a POS.. its dangerous... but hilarious !

lol.. what a POS.. its plastic.. talk about gorilla in the trunk !! OMFG !!! HE WRECKED IT !!! HILARIOUS !! thought maybe it had some sorta balance system within it..

and i really wouldn't worry too much about box imp rise.. its something you can really get a grip on since it changes pretty much all the time with the diff. frequencies

oh and... when you talk about a sub being 4 ohms, that's a nominal or "average" impedance. The DCR or DC resistance of that usb is actually about 3.6 ohms at rest. A speaker is a reactive load. You're sending current through a coil of wire when producing sound with a speaker , and this generates inductance. As a result, the impedance of the speaker will vary with the frequency of the alternating current going through it's coil (the frequency of the sound you're playing.) The box also has an effect on this change in impedance, and the rise in impedance as you approach the Fs of the driver and enclosure is directly proportional to the efficiency. (weird but that's how it works.. balances out in a sense.) but to answer your question, yes you can load match an amp and sub combination with the enclosure you use and the box's tuning frequency to get the most power from the amp at a certain frequency range for SPL events, and that combination may not be what would sound like an ideal match under normal circumstances. I've seen people run amps at 1 or .3 ohms with big subs (nominal) to get ideal load at their burping frequency because the math worked out that way. The trick is how long you plan to run the system at those loads. quoted from someone.. read most of it.. sounds good to me..

http://www.stevemead...-chart-updated/ KABOOM ! say for instance you have a pretty good higher end model head unit that has 8v outputs... you have to adjust the amp to make up the amount to acheve what ever that chart accounts for... http://mobile.jlaudi...php?page_id=143 Blammo !

Alright that cleared up the first part cuz im probably going to over power my subs for my next build but still need to fully figure out the gains. Basically it matching the volts of the headunit with the amp? im guessing uh... no. its sorta like... head unit + amp = a certain voltage which depending on what ohm you have it wired to will determine your wattage.. "pending on if the amp is clipping, box rise, etc."

u said overpowering twice... i don't get it.. and setting gains on an amp is to adjust it in cadence with the head unit to make proper power at a certain voltage

Hey got a 94 Cadillac Deville with nearly 100k. The car was having some issues about a month ago. The car would idle odd and jump around. Took it to a mechanic and he said the idle speed control sensor is no longer working. Replaced it.Also was having a leaky water pump gasket and radiator. Had the idle control sensor, the water pump plus gasket and the radiator. Now it runs a little better, but seems to idle a little too low, car has very little power, is extra loud and gets crappy gas mileage. Mechanic said it could either be the catalytic converter or the throttle body being dirty, but no leaky exhaust pipe "maybe thought it was loud because of that". Cleaned the throttle body real good, helped a little but still has the same issues. I was told the catalytic converter would smell like poo if it was too clogged. I could adjust the idle control sensor a little to make it idle a little more, but not sure if its gonna do any good. But has anyone had similar issues and maybe a quick fix or just a reliable fix ??

maybe settings on the amp is going into protect because the amp isn't set correctly.

Anyone have a link ? My usual isn't working

um... not really a difference except just the coil config.. if you plan on running an amp that puts out power at 1 ohm and is 1 ohm stable.. you'll want 2 dual 4 ohm subs... so you can wire them to 1 ohm... NOW !!! if you wanna get an amp that does the same amount of power at 2 ohm.. you'll want dual 2.. so you can wire them to dual 2... generally amps that are not 1 ohm stable but 2 ohm stable.. IMO i think there more expensive but easier on the electrical on you car.. but are kinda rare.

looking for trades ? i have a 4 channel amp and a 8000k HID kit.. idk if that'll interest you.

on the alpines though don't get dual 2's... get dual 4's so you can wire it to 1 ohm. also i'd upgrade your battery to something bigger maybe a yellow top. also DO the big 3.. its cheap quick and effective.

and can you not hook up everything threw HDMI ?

check all the connection ? or trying the xbox on another tv ?

you could try ups or fedex.. although they start with low pay "$8.50 for Nashville, TN" those drives can make up to $40 an hour.. i've been working there almost 3 years and i'm making okay money at $13... although i live on my own and may not have the fanciest things.. good enough..

well when i crank the car "and you know where the gauges so all the way across the board before starting ??" it'll work doing that.. just doesn't read temperature

WEll i have a 95 chevy caprice. the temp gauge is going nuts.. 99% of the time it'll seem off and stay at 0 degrees. every once in awhile it'll kick all the way to the red "HOT" and my dash has a light that says "check gauge"... i crank the heat to see if its really really hot.. "it isn't" then it'll randomly turn off.. no harm.. NOW i just want it fixed. I already replace the temp sensor "like a brass lookin spark plug" but it didn't fix it... any ideas ??

Looking for a 95 chevy caprice HO alt.the engine is a 4.3L v8. would like something more mainstream and reliable but output and being reliable are my 2 top priorities. My max is $300 shipped to nashville tn.. thanks

how old is the battery ?