SmallTruk

That was something else I thought about too. Everything looks fine with the back cover removed though. I'm honestly stumped, not sure where to go with it right now. I kinda want to insulate the end cap so it can't contact the case in a conductive way and then solder in a wire to the outer connection on the RCA's to the ground and be done with it. But I know there's something wrong and it's gonna bother me no matter if I get it to work with some half ass setup.

I swapped the end piece that holds the RCAs and their soldered connections with the other amp I had and it was fine. Took it out and checked everything again. Noticed that the power AND protect light are both on. Also, with the end piece in place if I touch the outer metal of the RCA and the case I get shocked. Nothing major but enough to feel it and know its there.

So here's what I figured out: All solder joints around RCAs are good, swapped end cap with RCA's to confirm. With the RCA piece screwed in place on the amp, it goes into protect. If I remove that piece and just leave the two plugs from the RCA's connected to the board it starts up fine. The high pitch tone is there when the amp isn't in protect (end piece not screwed in place) but if I ground the outside of one of the RCAs the high pitch tone disappears. Any idea what's going in here? I know it ain't the RCA's on the amp but I'm thinking it's some type of ground problem in the amp. Help...

People that post on forums, Facebook, emails etc and do it in a matter that looks like a 13 year old girls text message. I don't care if you're using your phone or not, it just makes you look like an idiot to me.

The RCAs on the saz are connected to the board via a set of cables with plugs that go into the board. So with that I'm kinda thinking it's one of the RCA plugs that's tightened on the end cap that's got a bad joint somewhere. Might just swap those pieces from one amp to the other to confirm that's what it is. Easier than taking all the time to re solder only to find out its something else.

Finally got a chance to yank it out. Pulled the cover and didn't see any broken joints. Put it back together and hooked it back up to try pinpoint it better. Figured out that if I wiggle the RCAs it'll make the crackling sound. Also found out that if Im holding the RCA and touching the plate they're mounted to I actually got a small shock. I'm guessing that the tone I'm hearing is AC voltage that's being induced into the RCAs from that one amp. Just need to yank it out again and try pinpoint where it's bad. Any ideas?

I'm hoping I'll get my sub before april the way things are going. I ordered it on the 24th, a week ago I email for an update and was told the motor and some soft parts were done. A week later and it still hasn't been shipped. Basically pay no attention to what they have listed on their site as far as build time goes lol

i had some PIAA's that had the same problem; that shit wouldn't turn on until i smacked the housing. i swapped in the factory bulb and it worked fine. before you get a new housing see if swapping the old bulbs back in makes a difference. might just be the bulb crapped out on you already.

Maybe because they were minors. Cops can't/wont give out details initially if it's something that's involving anyone underage.

I've had an annoying high pitch, low volume tone coming from my speakers and narrowed it down to one of the SAZ3000's I have strapped. RCA's disconnected from the amp and the sound is gone. I also diacovered that if I tap on the case of the amp that's causing the noise it'll make a crackling sound from the speakers with each tap. Everything was fine until I put in the 2nd amp. Bought it used so I don't know the total history. Anybody have an idea of what inside the amp could be causing this issues?

I'd do the two 4ohm setup, it'll make things easier in multiple ways. I'd skip the super tweets too. If you want some cheap, decent tweets my fav is the Vifa XT25's. MadiSound, Amazon and Parts Express all sell them. Usually about $28-35 a piece.

Knukonceptz dot com

Nice! Congrats bro, that's some good shit

You have glue in there right? What kinda wood you using?

Why not just figure it out yourself? There's a handful of free calculators available or you could go with a program like bass box and get into detail even more. Sorry, I just can't see how someone could take on such an extreme type of build without even knowing how to calculate it.

Just start searching for stuff online, I'm sure you're gonna find everything you could ever wanna know and then some. Civics are kinda popular to say the least haha

Adding an intake, short or long, isn't going to change the sound of your exhaust. It's gonna make things louder just because the stock intake and all it's silencers will be gone. I'd save up for the real CAI, don't even mess with the short one. Either that or make your own with ABS pipe. As far as installation goes, google it. I'm sure you can find a million and one how-to's on Civic stuff lol

It won't harm your engine. But a short ram intake is somewhat of a waste because even though you increase airflow, you're sucking in hot air from the engine bay. If you really want to upgrade it then look for a true cold air intake, one that'll suck the air from down in the front bumper/fender area. Down side to those is if you go through really deep puddles you can suck water. But anyone with a brain knows better than to go fording 12" deep water with a civic.

My experience with them lately seems to show that they're behind with things. I'm thinking Xmas and the SP4 release may have messed things up, not sure though. All I can say is it seems to be about a 4-5 week wait on orders for subs. Good luck with it though, I'm in the same boat as you...

Trying to get all the same names on all the forums I visit regularly. Can I get mine changed to "SmallTruk". Thank you!

Trying to get all the same names on all the forums I visit regularly. Can I get mine changed to "SmallTruk". Thank you!

Looks awesome, noce work man. But IMO building a small box and sticking it in the corner of the cargo area against the seat woulda been easier and less intrusive. With that sub sticking out into the open area like that it looks pretty vulnerable.

It's generally recommended to set the knob at about the halfway point and then set the gains. Bust out the DD1....I'd do the gains again

Alex.....If there are no measurements given for port pieces in the cut list section, what measurement is used for port length? I just DL the calc and with all my numbers where I want them, I have my port length entered as 17". How do i find the measurement to make the pieces for the port? And it says "yes" for the port bending. Sorry to threadjack, I just was getting confused with the calc too.