bobonit

When something with electronics goes, it can go in a snap. Once a rectifier or something like that pops, its done. Not saying thats what happened, but yes, things can go bad in an instant.

Dude, he told you to divide the amount of the port in 2, not divide the box in 2.

The old dude in the first vid is fucking awesome!!

Looks like your SOL.

Just reread the question about the alt. There will be a plug that has some small wires on it, and there should be one fat wire going to a bolt on it. You want to put your wire on the same bolt as that fat wire (its probably 8 or 4 gauge).

Leave all existing OEM wiring in place. The big 3 is in addition to the OEM wiring. Run the 1/0 from the positive terminal on the alt to the positive terminal on the battery. Battery negative to chassis ground. Battery negative to the alternator mount if you can, otherwise to the engine block. If you have 1/0 going to the trunk, lose the isolator and make sure you have a 300amp fuse on each end of that 1/0 within 18 inches of the front and back batteries.

I used 1/4" t-nuts. To help them stay in so they don't spin out when screwing the subs in, instead of hammering them in, I put some wood glue on the side that faces the wood, put a sub in place and used the 1/4 bolts to pull them in. That way they are also lined up perfectly.

The corner of Chea Dr. and Sundown Dr. of course

Nice!! I love how you did the buss bars up front, what did you cover them with? Is that heat shrink?

Pull down the "Analyze" menu and choose "Find Clipping"

I use it to find peaks and clipping in songs.

Get a respirator.

I'm looking at those power wires, what are they, 8awg? 2000w? I don't think so.

I agree the dude shouldn't have been doing double the posted limit, but you trying to stop him and then trying to deal with him in a Walmart parking lot was just plain stupid.

To be honest, I've never tried to rent one, but it could be a possibility. You could check your local equipment rental places, if they don't have them you can ask them if they know of any electronics equipment rental places.

So in addition to not knowing how to use an o-scope to make sure you don't clip your amp and burn out your sub on 4000 watts, you will be running the amp at 0.5ohms. How is the electrical on your car? You need to be able to support that amp at that impedence. You have be be VERY careful with your voltage so it doesn't drop and smoke the powersupply in your amp.

Welcome to SMD! Your truck looks nice, good luck with your upgrades.

As long as you are using the Aero Ports from Precision Port, you can use thin wall sewer pvc fittings. It must be the thin wall stuff and they will match up perfectly. I'm using the 90 degree elbows on my 6" aero's and they work great. If in doubt, just bring one to the home depot and do a test fit.

Go to post 75 here: http://www.stevemead..._1entry934293 Ray has links to the tutorials on diysubwoofer.org . Read them in the order he posted them.

Heheheh, I had that on cassette.

Florida is great because there is no Moondoggy's here. Screw that!!

I can answer number 1, the Aero comes with pre-made flares, pvc does not have flares. Without the flares, you can get turbulence and port noise. However, you can make flares for pvc, its just extra work. I'll take a stab at number 2, I know that if you make the port too small, you will get port noise, like a whooshing sound as the air travels in and out of the port. As the port gets bigger, that noise goes away. But I'm pretty sure, as the port gets bigger, you get a narrower response (more of a peak), where as a smaller port can give you a flatter response (less of a peak). Rounding the ends of a square port does the same as having flares on your aero/pvc ports. It reduces port turbulence and noise.

As the stock wiring ages, it can have reduced current flow. The big 3 will help with that.