eliassami5

looks like Hifonics' XX amps.. Compare to: they look similar on the outside but i doubt the internals are anything alike

cuz no1 wants to buy a v8 suv right now? All suv prices dropped..well all gas guzzling suv prices dropped and Mercedes is no exception

the port has to have the same area all the way through..and when he said bend it he meant make it into an L shape instead of just a straight up port. You dont need any special tools, just have the port 5" away from the back of the wall and then extend it up 1.5 inches to get the length needed for a 30hz tune.

well here's the diagram im gonna follow for now..any comments would be cool

i was thinkin bout something like that but with all the splitters im gonna be using i think ill be loosing a lot of quality. I did that once with an older pioneer deck of mine and it had 2v preouts and i split it to run to two amps and the volume level basically halved itself from when i was only running 1 amp. Im gonna try using one amp as the master and then slaving the other amp and see how that works out. I use these Krystal rca splitters, they are awsome...only 6 bucks too:

True fuckin that lool, ive got their Krystal 4channel rca cables and i nearly jizzed my pants once i got them..such a nice cable for such a low price.

so using the slave output from one amp to the other wont degrade the rca signal?

So i wanna use two 4 channel amps for my front stage, one is an alpine mrp-f300 amp and the second will be a different brand. Im getting confused as to how to run these two amps off of the front stage pre-out on my HU without loosing rca voltage quality. My Pioneer DEH-5000 HU has 4v preouts, not sure if its split between front, rear, and sub outputs. Im looking at line drivers but thats just making things more complicating.. Heres a diagram that i drew up to illustrate my setup Any help would be appreciated thx

you missed a dent lol. But the paint job looks real sick man, ppl are gonna think ur rollin in a Maybach haha, u need to put that emblem on there to finish it off. And trust me i know how hard it is to pull off a flat paint job..but its all in the prep.

Red top is a starting battery, has the fastest discharge and recharge rate of any optima battery. Discharge the battery below 10.5v more than 15 times and the battery will become a paper weight, is not designed to be quickly discharged all at once so your system shouldn't exceed ~2000 watts. = good for audio systems when the engine is running Yellow top is a deep cycle battery designed to be drained to low voltages again and gain without damaging the battery = good if you play your system with then engine off and if you are running more than 2000 watts But then again there are many other battery choices depending on what kind of system you wanna run and what kind of weather you live in

DAMN..shit looks like its gonna be bomb-proof lol

91' jeep cherokee still going strong with only 170k, its got about 150k more in it. All the maintenance is done by me and its well cared for, has never given me problems. Basically if you take care of it, then it will take care of you. I believe that imports are just better engineered and usually have better quality parts used in them compared to some American vehicles. I also believe that American cars are manufactured with Planned obsolescence in mind...gotta keep that economy going!

Aqua Di Jio for the fuckin win, also the bottle thats shaped in a mans body, forgot the name but its the shit also. And ever since a good friend of mine said she liked Kilo the most out of all the AXE's i started wearing it and its rly not that bad. After a year tho it gets old...still have a full can in my jeep just incase i need it. But damn aqua dj is expensive lol

is that 4 gauge wire feeding those amps?? and the negative looks smaller than the pos...i really hope its not lol

ye i guess if you think about where you are gonna store all of the baskets and shipping them and paying for workers and all the expenses and whatnot. But even then couldn't you just design a new basket here in the US and then have it manufactured in china at a factory that already specializes in basket making? Then they can be sold in bulk to subwoofer companies here in the US.

is it that hard to engineer a basket, i mean we have so many things we can draw inspiration from. Like building architecture, bridge architecture, and etc. If its strong enough to support a bridge im pretty sure it strong enough to be incorporated into a subwoofer basket... But mass producing a new design is a whole different story. Im just surprised that there arent like tons of different designs being used by the different companies, something to set them apart from the rest.

Nobody will give you a free credit report, but you can get an credit report from the gov once a year, they made it into a law. They wont give you a "number" but it will show you all your credit and whatnot, go to https://www.annualcreditreport.com/cra/index.jsp edit: nvm someone already posted that link

usless..only work on carbed engines

they hit the lows like no other brand name woofer for the price...other than that they arent a great sq woofer and if its in a prefab box then it aint worth it. BREAK IT IN is the one thing i would warn you about them, they really need to be broken in. I blew my first one in the first 2 weeks cuz i didnt break it in but my second one has lasted 2+ years...although the suspension is almost all but gone now since ive been feeding it 1500rms since i got it.

the wire size that your amp accepts has nothing to do with the "big 3". The goal is to reduce the run of wire while also increasing the wire size in the engine compartment for better, more efficient electrical flow, which means your alt will be able to recharge your batts more easily and efficiently. Your amps will benefit from this because now there will be more current being supplied to them for a longer period of time with less voltage drop..dosent matter if your amps accepts 12,8,4, or 0 gauge wire. You can mix and match batts but its not recommended. People will say that the liquid cell battery will cause the dry cell to run at a lower voltage then it would if otherwise by itself. I personally run a dry cell in the trunk and a wet under the hood and have had no problems. If you are on a tight budget just pick up a dry cell for the rear and when you can just upgrade the bat under the hood for a dry cell also, preferably the same manufacturer. oh and you can get reducers to be able to fit a 0 gauge wire into an amp that only accepts up to 4 gauge. You dont really need it but if you want to upgrade later on to a bigger amp then might as well just use all 0 gauge wire. heres a link to one http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Co...sid/0/SFV/30046

a lot of ppl say to keep the tweeter and the woofer as close together as possible for the best sound, but that kind of defeats the purpose of component speakers. You might as well buy some co-axles if you are gonna keep them right next to each other. But some people prefer their tweeters in different places like under the seat facing up or in the a pillar facing the passenger/driver, or in the center console facing the passenger/driver. It all depends on you and what sounds best for you, If it sounds good to you with both the tweeter and the woofer close together then you might as well just get the coax, but if you like the tweeter higher up then get the comps.

the speakers cost $5000 and the case alone costs the extra $199 lol

clean room you got there buddy

Same thing happened to me when i was building my first box. For the longest time i thought it was something in my eye but i had actually scratched my cornea and everytime i blinked it would open up the scratch and it would feel like something was still stuck in my eye. I just tried not to blink and just dealt with it, the next day the pain in my eye went away and all was good. You just gotta live with it till it heals up, wont take long.

my mom wants met to get one lol but im like HELL NO, id rather be riding a motorcycle