HHR Ed

Worked hard editing these to make them look more professional. Also gave away a custom 15" Woofer in vid 2

Actually, 200A alts do not make full power at 8000rpm. It depends on the alt and each has its own rating through the rpm band. Some alts make full power at 2000 rpm. Best way to figure what you need electrical wise is this. First figure what wattage you want to run, how many of what size amplifiers. Lets use a 10,000w amp as an example. OK, so first I wanna choose the batteries to power that 10,000w amp. I want a bit of overhead and have to figure voltage drop as well. Most amps will shut off at 10v so if we use that as a reference, it'll give us overhead automatically. Also, most amps are 65-90% efficient, so we need to figure on making more that 10,000w. Lets choose batteries that can deliver about 15,000w at 10v. So our batteries must be capable of supplying 1500A of current. About 3 XS Power D3100s can handle that. Why not 4 for a bit of reserve, shall we? Because we have the 4channel amps and the engine too. So no we have 4) XS D3100s to charge while playing. They have a total aH rating of 440. So with a draw of 1500A, the batteries alone will die in about 20 minutes or so, playing full tilt. if we use a 200A alternator, we can extend that to about 25 minutes. A 300A would extend it to about half an hour. So now figure your playing habits. Are you playing tones at 100% power for 30 minutes straight? Probably not. How bout playing music at 75% power on average for 30 minutes? Sure. Well transients dont pull full power at all times, so with this, the 30 minute playing time can be extended for hours. And everytime you pause or mute, or there is a break in songs, the alts will be charging the batts. With about 75A of charging to each battery. That is pretty good. Going larger will increase performance. But that'll do well in a situation like this. The smaller the alt, the longer it will take to charge up the batts and let playing time you will have. Going larger will increase playing time and speed up recharge. 75A of charge can recharge a fully depleted D3100 in just a couple hours. When playing with music and once in a while go to 100% power for a few minutes, you may only deplete the batteries a few percent. So recharge to full will only be a few minutes. Basically what Im saying is to get the largest Alt you can afford.

Yep, and that can be with anything. You may want to drag race, or spend money on fancy hats because they make you feel happy, or gambling. It just so happens that fewer people understand car audio so more people will disagree with spending money on it.

in 2002 I took out a loan to build my system. I'm still in debt and cant afford to put anything in my car right now. Let that be a lesson or just a cool story bro, haha

any video converter

Ho Tony, welcome to the forum First off, both those cars are difficult to get loud, so they should be evenly matched. Secondly, both of your setups would be very closely matched so its too hard to tell. You just want to make sure you have the best ported box you can make. If you really want be sure you beat him, you have to step up to a more capable woofer and more power, But you may not be ready to do that. Start with what you have, see where you are at, and you can upgrade little by little from that point.

are you measuring with the woofer connected to the amp? because you shouldnt do that

Nice car, Nice woofers

I feed him Foots

What works for you and what works for someone else, or even whats the best thing to do is all different. As you said, you are hindered a few dB. Perhaps the OP is not in any fuse limited class, does not want to hinder a few dBs, and does not want to pop a fuse every time he plays a song. The BEST thing to do is to fuse for the power wire, not the amp. You would use a few lengths of 0awg for that amp and the fuses are meant to protect the car if that wire were to come loose and ground out. At about 12ft, a 0awg wire is capable of carrying 300+ Amps of current, so your fuse should pop before it reached that point. The key is to get the max rated fuse on that wire as to not restrict current flow but stay under the wire rating so that the fuse would still do it's job. 250A on each 0awg would be great.

Thank you, I do have access to a gravitational model computer program, but i do not have enough data to trace back to the 2nd gen star. I am sure there are many variances in gravity to be accounted for that may not be known, such as a black hole passing by the wave, or even the idea that 2 waves collided. but with enough data and work, I think it can be done.

Nice thread. I love those thoughts I've always liked the fact that we were born from the core of a star. -Our sun is a 3rd generation star. In the core of a star, atoms of Hydrogen are fused together into more dense, complex atoms of Helium. The fusion process continues through all of the natural elements until we have all of the heavier atoms like Iron, Gold, Carbon and the others. Billions of years ago, a 2nd Generation star went SuperNova and exploded all of these elements into space. The elements settled and combined with gas clouds in regions of the Milky Way Galaxy. After condensing under it's own gravity and coalescing, our solar system was formed and thusly so was the Earth, and in due time, you were born containing those vary atoms that traversed the cosmos to become you. I had an idea that may be probable. To trace back through time the movements of our solar system, and find the trajectory of the shock wave that brought heavy particles from the 2nd Gen start that had exploded. Then we can find the radius of that shock wave, then determine it's movements forward through time. Then, if we look in the area of that shock wave and find solar systems, it is feasible that life could have arose in those solar systems as well, given that their atomic signature will be very similar to ours. This would make it that any life in those places would be our cosmic brothers and sisters. -I also have another thought on the model of gravity. I always hated the trampoline fabric bending model. Instead, I propose that Gravity is like the opposite of displacement. Instead of a large body such as the Earth pushing a medium out, it pulls a medium (in this case "Space-Time") Towards itself. This effectively can distort Space=Time to the effect that a "Unit" of Space-Time is smaller as we get closer to the large body. This would create the perception that we travel faster as we get closer and closer to the Earth. This would also make it appear as if the Earth would draw us in, or Space-Time would push us into the Earth.

do you have access to a multi-meter? I'd use a relay anyway. Much safer than going straight through a switch. Is your wire fused?

Emergency Medical situation 101. If someone is laying on the ground twitching from a massive head wound you should do the following..... A. Take a cell phone pic? B. Drag them by their legs into a car? C. Both as depicted in the vid by the group of jackasses?

2) 15s and 6000w is tough to get to a 150 and unless an extreme car, 159 is impossible in this day and age.

JD was just joking. It was under a picture he posted building customers woofers.

I doubt what he said about if there was no JL there would be no AA is true. Scott Atwell who started Fi AA has been around for many years and has done more than just RE in the past. He's a smart businessman as well as designer. He'd be doing it with or without the existence of JL.

And if you watch the vid at about th 6:00 mark. You can see all 6 new screws holding the basket to the motor and I even put dabs of glue to hold them. And I put dabs of GOOP between the basket and motor.

That pic was before I screwed it all down. The motor is from a 10" RE I think, and I put a 12" RF basket on it. Pic was taken before I grinded the basket.

some pics of the day

Ever wanted to see how some veterans recone a woofer. I just did a vid showing my techniques

he's no nerd though. this is our nerd music idol

130-140 dB