HHR Ed

its easy to look at the class matrix on the dB Drag site. SS = unlimited batteries. Ext = mods in front of B Pillar OK, example = 6" thick plexiglass windshield.

good rough numbers for an example. But only true in a prefect world with a 100% efficient amp. Most good amps will be 80-90% efficient, tops. then you measure your voltage drop when playing. So if an 85% efficient amp does 2000w on a 14.4v source that drops to 13.8v (example). It would have to draw about 175A or so. (not exact, done in my head)

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if your amp does 2000w @ 1 ohm and 1000w @ 2 ohm. It can draw almost twice as much current at 1 ohm as compared to 2 ohms. As a general statement,most amps will draw more current at lower ohm loads. Lower resistance on the output means that more current will flow through the output. Voltage input at your battery source remains constant so more power has to come from raising current draw.

TSNS can handle 9K daily and 24K for burps

I agree, need a better host, like that cute blonde girl from Truck Universe. Or someone that is more of an expert on the products. I am excited to see them moving in this direction though.

Has any one ever seen an audio manufacturer with a commercial? I dont think I have. T3 Audio is gonna have on on Speed Channel. http://link.brightcove.com/services/link/b...bctid1811520555 http://link.brightcove.com/services/link/b...bctid1468266723

are you going for good sounding or just high SPL? there are plenty of box design programs that you can use if you have the specs of the sub. Personally, I just build a box to what I feel would be good, then fine tune the port afterwards. But I have been building boxes since 1992. I would put the subs on the passenger side and the port on the driver side, make the port as high as the box (12" if the box is 12" high) Then do the width about 10" and length of 16". Then I would shrink the port area or length as I see fit. Or I would use a 10 or 12" round flared port and adjust the length to fine tune. This is how I build sometimes and it always works for me.

SPL wise, the best for a trunk car is to fire the sub and port forward and totally seal off the trunk from the cabin. 2 cubes may be good for that sub but I am not sure. SPL wise it would be best to have one port at least 75-100 sq inches of port area. You currently have 2) 25 sq in ports for a total of 50 sq inches, thats too small for SPL, but can be good for regular listening.

I dont have experience with those subs but can tell you that more port area will help. what kind of car?

I tested my Maxximus at 12K of output. It'll take alot to have me switch cause I love that amp. I can say that I will be testing the twelve.1s though.

eventually there will be, just have to debut the line first and see how it goes.

roughly a 100 x 2 125 x 4 500 x 1 800 x 1 1200 x 1 9000 x 1 these ratings may change once testing is concluded.

there are also partial sponsorships. I talked to JD today and it is official. The amps should be available in February. They are all going to be rated by Horsepower and there may be a small block series and a big block series.

got a Turkey day rumor that T3 is naming and rating their amps by horsepower. what do yall think? there is half.2 one.4 one.1 two.1 and twelve.1 (big boy) pic on Jan 1st and amps sold in Feb.

I have only been studying car audio for 16 years out of my 28. I still have yet to see a benefit from a CAP in any setup, no matter how you use it, but I guess I need more experience as well. Although I have yet to see a car with severe ripple in the DC voltage line that warranted a CAP in the first place. Could happen (in theory)

I have tested many times with varying sized systems and various sized CAPS. each time I found the same result, no benefit, no harm, nuetral. They simply did not do anything. Nothing can beat a properly setup electrical system with a properly size alternator and batteries. If your system is having issues, try not to add a bandaid, fix the source of the issue. thats what I say.

that link looks like alot of theory and sales tactics. Too bad that has never matched any findings in the numerous tests my colleagues and I have done over the years. Oh well, to each his own.

you should never have to use a CAP. they dont really do anything.

exactly, just part of the motor. i.e. the coil

you heard wrong. Even if a sub moves a little it will still move air enough to cool, and besides, there isnt enough power to heat up the coil that much anyway. too little power cannot blow a sub, its impossible. What too little power can do is cause you to turn it up too much and play into distortion. Distortion is not good but also cannot alone blow a sub. Its the extra heat caused by the distortion. The setup you listed will be fine though

Does more than rated actually. I tested one at over 4000 watts output on 14v DC dropping to 13.5v. Strong amp. Its a dual mono design so its benefit depends on your setup. This amp does well in street classes

Big speakers came into my house, disrespected my family.

buy a new USB keyboard. can get one on the cheap if there is a Circuit City nearby.

If loud is your main goal there are better choices in sub brands. However, out of those 2 choices, the 2 12s would get louder any day, the W3 just cant be pushed hard enough to compensate for the lower cone area.