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bumonskateboard6

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Everything posted by bumonskateboard6

  1. Finally got around to shooting a video only like 3 months haha
  2. any particular reason for amazon? Sites like sonicelectronix have decent stuff in that price range.
  3. ....no, basically in car audio you get what you pay for, for a pair of Type R's I'd say Diablo Audio Technologies HF 1000.1 (highly underrated) would be best. Check the impedance (ohms d4 or d2) and wire it either at 2 ohms or 1 ohm depending, either way you'll have a solid amp and it'll get loud.
  4. Nope, I got one in my Jeep, don't get me wrong it gets attention and has some interesting sounds but it's not anywhere near as loud as an emergency vehicle.
  5. wat? anyway nice progress I like the remote control system, and the massive piles of wire. Keep up the good work I'm anticipating seeing the new subs....
  6. I've head one of those before it sounded pretty good, but my backseats don't go down either and I go subs and port back and its still hitting as hard as I'd expect I just leave my "trunk access" door down and that's enough room to create a breeze through it. Definitely put some second skin all over that trunk though.
  7. 4 x (pi x 9^2) = 1017.36 inches of cone area... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/01nocomment8so.gif
  8. The Diablo Audio Hellfire 1000 for sure...you can PM kingsuv or david they'll be happy to tell you prices.
  9. Oh there MAY be a 22" AA SMD sub at some point in time...but working out logistics, volumes, and basket may make it not be a reality and I don't think Steve's going to put 22"s in the tahoe with the box space he has. As for the jackhammer who told you it was a good sub? Sure it has it's place for being a 22, but rather unimpressive when it's compared to subs that are way less expensive than it.
  10. It isn't really possible to enhance a picture that much...but I messed around for a few minutes and this may look better than the default stretched setting. Let me know..
  11. Lol i hope you're not talking about James May...but I'll make some videos soon to throw up here now that the subs have had a week to break in
  12. Take the fusing on your amp, multiply it by 14.4, then multiply by 0.65 to 0.75 for power acoustik and you may get somewhere close...
  13. Regardless of what happened I know Rusty gave me great customer support with my order of LVL4 12"s and that's what really sealed me on buying the DC's, and I'm sure if you talk to him he'll give you the same good support. There's even a chance that the coil may have originally had a problem in it that when power was put to it smoked it quickly. There's no company in the world that has a 100% success rate with every product so no reason to blame DC or you for something that could have been a flaw in the coil originally. Talk to Rusty and/or put pics of the coil up here.
  14. Got em in today... I was surprised they were a little shorter than my old Pioneer's that I pulled out but they weigh more than the pioneers and have a lot better construction The box was built by a local shop for the pioneer's it's a little over 1.5 cubic feet per chamber tuned to around 36hz. Overall I'm very happy with this purchase and happy with the install and how much louder and cleaner they are.
  15. Edited...didn't read the description on Fi only RMS
  16. Never heard of them and for that price you can get some more reputable subs that will take roughly the same power and more...along with have dual voice coils not single. Personally I would say LVL2 or LVL3's from DC, or SSD from FI. You'll have a stronger sub.
  17. Just wondering if anyone knows usually how long it takes for Rusty to build them up I do get anxious haha
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