SPLGEO

I did.... now it all gone :'( it was noticable louder when i re grounded teh battery. and cleaner.. teh 1 fard cap helps soem.. but i will never go over 1 fard.

3seconds is all i am lookin for. now at least. Mark Potts(tcab) has never replaced teh ALT on his blaser, and has never had a problem. but he has 2 yellow tops

when i first did it i had teh 2 RF amps 80 amps of current.. and it made a little difference..... but after Christmas i'll see how well stock everything holds up to 240 amps

I had 2 RF 3002 and a 1 fard cap and no problem never went below 12.7.. I had only regrounded out teh battery.. not i have everything out getting readdy for teh big stuff.. full big 3 down.. still stock ALT and battery... and the voltage read 14.8.. all of the time now

I just looked up your stoclalt. 90 amps.. well thats better then my geo(corolla with a chevy body) 70 amp alt.

OUCH.. Amsterdam FTW

according to the Min. battery current chart you need atleast 1500 amps of battery. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7341.html or http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7342.html

also lowes has it for $2.20 a foot cheap there too. i used there wire for all of my stuff.. stiff.. but you can bind it and it will stay bent. I like it :^

have you upgraded teh battery yet. and done teh big 3? if not a cheap thing wuld be the big 3 and at Batterys plus hvae a truck battery that 1125 cca for $85 its big but it shoudl do you well

ok thanks for clearing that up on my part. guess someone needs to write sonic e

Thats cuz sonic electronic is using the ol t3k fuse rating. The T4k has a 500amp fuse....there is no way ur gonna get 4k + rms outta a 300amp fuse.....u might get up to about 3400 but not 4k. Iv seen meades and his came with 500amp fuses.....http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/forums/index.php?topic=297.0 then explain how the t15k one pulls around 375 amps

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7771.html# according to sonic E... its only a 300 amp fuse. and from what i've seen its only a 300 amp fuse.. even the one on MEADES

you mostly can double the impedence rise.. IE.. speaker 1 ohm, in box it be 2 ohms.. smaller teh box and teh higher tuning frequency teh lower teh impedence rise.. teh bigger and lower tuned boxes will yield higher impedence rise....you can do a dual 2 ohm btl with taht amp wire it to 1 ohm.. and you have to set the amp setting ciorrectlyor else it could spell SOMKING THE AMP...... it will yeild more power but.. if you want to be on the safer side dual 1 ohm wired down to 2 ohm

WTF...... i want to how much they paid for that crap..... looks like so CC parts

This is what I started with.. cheap pawn shop Yahama guitar, buzzed like crazy, but still worked Tear Down UPS FTW.. Thanks Warmoth.com New stuff Assembled.. lot of sodering... and the wire they use is not liek speaker wire it looks like 20 awg but strip teh plastic away there your sheilding/ground the under neathe it is the real wire thats 30 awg And all back together Sounds great.. no more buzzing.. great clean sounds... great distoration :^

Happy Thanks Giving from Alabama(non southeren accent )

6x9 don't have that great of SQ.. round is always the best. dayton from partsexpress.com would be the best....I know MECA rules say the sound sound come from teh front.. at EYE LEVEL.. teh rear feel should be liek an echo effect teh sound should also sound like its in a big area not a small car.... I have teh kenwood kdc-828, and it has built in processors that take car of all of that for you.. up front go with a 3 way componat setup(tweeter, 4", 6.5"0 rear do a two way(tweeter, 5.25)..... subs 12's should do. mount your mid range 4" speaker on the a-piller and keep all of your front spakers within a 18" area of each other... that teh rule of thumb for SQ....so teh sound doesn't apear to be coming from different places.. it needs to sound liek it coming from one centeral point above the window and should not sound like its in a small car. hope that helps

I smell another magizen feature coming on :^

so that would be 3/2= 1.5 the 1.5/2 = .75 thats your finally ohm load.. also remeber that your ohm loads will change with frequency

wire each at 1 ohm..... the run each sub to the amp it will bridge it internally.. or you could bridge it and run it to just one + and one -

its not but you can hook one sub up to one set and the other to the other set and it will connect them internally

first use foam to mold it to the shape you want. use resin to make it hard primer paint and attach

possiblle loose connections. battery or ALT........ is not run some fuel in cleaner through it and get a bottle of air intake cleaner, must be safe for 02 sensors, i belive teh spray bottle is white and red from wal mart........sound sliek a loose connection though

the different subs

2.6 is what i use for them tunning soudns about right. you need a good size port I recommed for you 4 4" areo ports from Partsexpress.com , or you can try and flare them out yourself. honeslty that amp doesn't put out that much power I used to own it and It only did about 600 watts. crx style will proble be best, i think subs for port back would be the best for you. flaring your ports reduces turbulane.. some people have noticed a 1-3 db differnce. people in teh extreme classes still use rectangel ports but the flare them out using PVC pipe.. teh smoother you make the the better