kickass audio

I am 53% completed with it and have found all but like 15 cars. I personally drive the lamborghini gallardo with tier 1 nitrous, reinflatable tires (unless i need speed then i go to track), aero body, lightweight chassis, pro short transmission (unless i need speed then i go for pro long). I am up to where i just unlocked the Bugatti Veyron and that car is great for speed but super shitty on turns. The damn thing has such slow response for turning unlike any other cars in the game and worst part is that i cant even get the car to drift, even while holding the e-brake. I have kept the lambo and i am doing great in the game.

It will load a little more than 6 seconds but idk about windows 8. I have windows 7 game rebel edition on my laptop with an OCZ Vertex 4 running off a Core I7-2670QM with an Nvidia GeForce GT555M graphics card. I booted up in 5 seconds without any programs loaded. Once i loaded my programs up it boots in 8-10 seconds. Its only a 256GB SSD but i love it. Nice gaming rig setup steve.

You're welcome bro. Yeah the i-bar compatible batteries have the terminals closer to the edge of the battery and have a little slot built into them so that the i-bar sits in the slot and doesnt move around freely. I cant speak for toolmaker but i believe i saw a terminal on here that was custom built and worked just like the i-bar setup.

No they will not work. The i-bar line up only works on up to the largest battery of the s/d3400. The d3100 you are limited to using the stock bolts it comes with or getting wing nut adapters from XS directly other than that you will need to make something custom. Have you looked into toolmaker on here for something?

Just bought a used 40gb PS3 from Ken and received it today. It was a non functioning PS3 but i knew that right from the start. It came to me in great condition and in a properly packed box. Received the payment request from his paypal to mine the same day and was informed as soon as he shipped it out. Great guy to do business with. Thanks again Ken

Give this a try before you manually pry it apart. If you are looking to sell it PM me if its the older style PS3. I would love to own one.

That sure is one good factor. My old linksys wrt-54g i used before i bought that asus i recommended to you i had the ability to monitor the cpu freq, memory usage and traffic monitors all the time anywhere i was, on network or off network. I only had 3 wireless devices connected at one time as well as 2 100mbps connections on the router. It showed that i was using up 75-80% of my total memory on the router for all the traffic that was going in and out of the router and the sad part is that i barely had any true heavy amounts of data streams taking place. A few big downloads, some video streaming, web surfing, a few times playing BF3 online and thats about it. The RIP tables build up fast and take up a damn good amount of space on the router and slow it down if it runs out of room to process new entries. I only have 12mbps down and 1.5mbps up through my cable provider as i cannot get verizon fios in my area but it works great for my needs. I like having a router that has gigabit on the WAN port because normally they are just 100mbps and the LAN side is all gigabit so you can have the fastest network in the world coming into your home but that wan port will be the part that chokes off your speeds while sharing content locally on the LAN will be fast as they are all gigabit.

It was not his network, it was a hardware problem with the old router/ap. I have taken CCNA 1-4 2 times back to back (no cert as of yet, still have some commands to memorize and am teaching myself some faster ways to subnet) and his problem is not network bandwidth. If that was the case it would just be lagging not dropping devices off in mid air and then making it so he reboots the devices it will re-authenticate and keep the connection up for a little while before it becomes bogged down from all that traffic and runs out of memory and kicks off devices again. Trust me i had the exact same problem with my home router twice before i upgraded to a firmware that was smaller in size and allowed me to kick up the clock rate of the router as well as increase the memory on the router to handle more traffic streams. My new one has one badass processor and memory layout on it and barely gets warm and i have a good amount of traffic that goes in and out of the router. I like that i can get the DDWRT firmware for it right out of the box and perform CLI configurations. Since i have taken CCNA i prefer command driven device programming to get my desired results. I think its more fun to setup that way. and n8, i also have not had the best of luck with d-link. Whether it was for wireless adapters, ap's or anything else they always seem to fail too fast and their quality in my opinion is poor.

I have had 0 problems with my router. I really think it will work great for you and not give you any problems. The administrative features of it are amazing as well as the speeds since both the Lan and WAN are 1gbps ports.

disconnecting devices may not resolve the problem. It didnt fix mine when i had the same problem of it kicking devices off at random and having intermittent connectivity delays. Idk what security you have on it all but try to see if there are any connections that are not your devices on the network and boot them off and block it. Its easy to spoof mac addresses but i have mac filtering along with wpa2 encryption for all my networks i setup and broadcast. I would really just save a backup of the firmware to your desktop, connect to the router via lan cable just for the update process and look on the d-link site for firmware and flash the router. After its flashed run a restore from your config file you saved before and see how it goes.

This is the router i have and use: http://www.newegg.co...N82E16833320091 I love having it where i can broadcast a separate network at 5ghz and 2.5ghz and make tons of guest networks and segment the network from the guest to normal network out of the box. It has gigabit ethernet on the lan and wan so you get as much speed as you can dream of and the range on it is amazing. I have the stock rom on it for now but will eventually run the dd-wrt firmware as my old ass linksys had that and it worked perfectly on it. edit: have you tried to update the firmware on the router or maybe flash an alternate firmware to it? I had the same problems on my linksys wrt-54g router (so old school but still works) and the only fix to it was to flash the memory and install the dd-wrt54g firmware and i never had an issue after that.

From what i have read and seen the N2 is geared towards daily use where the N3 is geared toward SPL. The difference is the gap between the coil and pole piece/motor. The SPL option makes that gap smaller so its easier to get the sub to rock and get coil rub where the daily sub will take more rocking to get the coil to rub. I myself havent owned either so i cant testify that but thats what i heard was the difference.

Have you checked with toolmaker on here? He makes great buss bars but im not sure if he has a backorder or what for getting them out the door.

I believe you are thinking of set screws. Yes thank you. I was trying to think of the correct name but was coming up blank. lol. I prefer those over ones that require ring terminals on the wire as you can make them neater and fit a lot more on the buss bar than to cram a ton of ring terminals together in one location.

If you can id recommend buss bars. They handle more current than power wire between each battery could and depending on how they are made for you they are cleaner looking and easier to use. There are buss bars out where you just strip back the wire, insert it into the buss bar and tighten down an allen head screw on the wire. Just like what amplifiers have for power input connections. Then if you really want to get it looking cool you can have them engrave the buss bar with something to make it stand out. My batteries perform great off having the tsunami 1/0 wire connecting them all together however if it wasnt for how the batteries arent 100% level with one another id totally get buss bars to make it cleaner back there.

Its just 4 D3100's but this is how i have it in my Envoy. The wires were cleaned up a lot better than in this picture. I just didnt have time to do it in this picture because I wanted to get it installed then worry about the small stuff after lol. I was thinking to get buss bars for them but its probably not possible as the back of the trucks floor twists a bit from the screws that hold it down to the frame so the batteries are not 100% level with one another.

HID's burn way hotter than halogen bulbs. With you having a 50w ballast that makes the bulbs burn hotter and brighter than a 35w ballast could do. Did the light illuminate when it smoked? It could just be some dust or oils on the bulbs. You NEVER want to touch hid bulbs with your hands and if you do you need to wipe them with alcohol pads immediately because the oils in your hands will cause the glass to heat up and get hot spots and break. For the battery harness do you mean a relay harness? It could be that you burned out the stock wire's jacket from that big load on the wire to ignite the bulbs the first few seconds. From what i clamped my HID's from FutureVision draw 25 amps of current when they are warming up, after they are warmed up they draw 9-10 amps of current. You really should use a relay harness with HID's because the ballasts draw way more power than a normal halogen bulb will and getting that power through the small gauge wire that connects to your old halogen bulbs is not possible without risking burning up the stock wire. Using the relay harness gives the ballasts all the power they require when igniting and running.

Wouldnt do that. Windows still keeps the files and stuff that may be infected when you do that. Doing that only makes it worse.

Recovery management is what you want. Different manufacturers have their stock image stored different ways. Yours is under recovery management to get it back to the stock image the computer was shipped with.

If you have problems with it booting up you can sometimes do a startup repair and fix windows when it has problems booting up. In your case i dont see the startup being a problem. What you would go in to perform a full system restore to get the laptop the way it was out of the box would be to select system image recovery or recovery management. I believe the system image recovery is what you want. There should then be an option to do a factory restore. Last warning, if you do this right now all of your data and programs will be erased and the computer will be restored to the condition it was when you opened it up from the box at the store.

im not sure exactly what you are describing. Does it give you multiple prompts like command prompt, startup repair, memory check?? And yeah its possible. My laptop is a damn good gaming laptop, Dell XPS L702X with a 64gb OCZ Vertex-4 solid state, 750gb Western Digital 7500rpm drive, blu-ray reader/writer, 3gb Nvidia GeForce 555M with 3-D glasses, 1080p/120Hz lcd panel, 8gb DDR3 ram, its loaded.

That happens. I backup at the very latest every month. Ive lost too many files from failed drives, windows screwing up and all the random problems that can happen with data. Im not too worried about it like i used to be since i have 3 external drives, 2 of which i do direct backups to and i have two hard drives installed on my laptop, one for the OS and programs and the other for my music, pics, vids, docs and downloads. Since you cant get in and stay in long enough i think your only chance is to rip that hard drive out, put it on a desktop and boot the desktop up then copy the files from her drive to an external hard drive or your desktops hard drive if there is enough room. Note: DO NOT backup anything but the content that is under the directory users\(her name)\ just backup the folders that say favorites, videos, documents, music, pictures, desktop. Everything else leave alone because its pointless to backup as it will not help you out at all in the end.

It sounds like your computer is too far gone to fix easily. If you were close to me id look at it for you and fix it. Virus issues arent that hard to fix most of the time but it takes a good amount of experience with them to know how they work and how to kill them. When you press f8 before windows boots is there an option called "repair your computer"? Usually its the very first option toward the top before it goes into saying safe mode, safe mode with networking, etc. If so there is a slim chance you can get into the command prompt and then type the command to start the combofix program but you HAVE to know the directory its stored under (c:/users/.....) combofix is just a command line utility so you can launch that from just command prompt if needed. If that doesnt work then the easy way out would be to just format the hard drive and start windows fresh. I dont usually recommend doing it but if you are like the 99% of people whose computers i work on and the data is not backed up you could take out the hard drive and install it on another machine to recover your files then wipe windows and start over. Again i dont usually recommend doing this because there is always that chance that the virus is lingering on those files and can unleash itself again. edit: for your warranty they never cover things like this. All that they would do is erase windows and start it from scratch and charge extra if you need the stuff recovered from the hard drive. Thats the easy way out and a ton of companies do it that way. Its too time consuming for big companies to waste time with looking into why a system crashes and fixing viruses than it is to reimage the computer and leave.

Can you boot up into safe mode? If you can id get a program called combofix and run it. Its free and fixes a ton of problems ive had on the computers i work on. Only beef i have about it is that sometimes depending on what it finds it will cause application shortcuts to break and say that they were marked for deletion. The way around that is if you can either make a new user profile on your computer then run combofix on that new account or run combofix and after its all fixed do a system restore back to the latest restore point and its fixed. First id see if its a local profile issue or an entire pc issue. Make a new user account and see if you can run a virus scan on that and if it finds anything. Most stupid viruses/malware out there just do stupid things to your local profile not the whole machine. Let me know what you make of this.

Those connections tend to rock a bit side to side. Finding one that will fit tight and not move around is hard to come by. If you have a multi meter (digital or analog) check the resistance on the tinsel leads (the wires that attach to the rear of the terminals that go to the inner area of the sub where the spider assembly is). Check and tell us the resistance it reads. Then try to do that but with the multi meter connected to the spade terminal on the speaker and wiggle the tinsel leads around one at a time. If you get a reading that changes then you have a loose tinsel connection and may just need to solder the wire back onto the terminal to fix it.