kickass audio

vette, it sounds 100% like your subs are bottoming out on you. my solox did that and if you took out the cone after it did it, you would see coil rub on the voice coil after it happened. maybe you need a higher dropoff on your subsonic. like 12-24db for a cutoff. im going to set my 3sixty to 24db of a crossover point when i get it put in.

for your first edit im not sure how much resistance it matters to your amp. i think (i may be wrong tho) but i believe that the higher the resistance the better it will block out freq's that are NOT supposed to go into the amp For edit2: you are reading it the wrong way. HP (high pass) means that for example, frequencies that are 30Hz and above will be sent to the amp for it to process. So frequencies above 30Hz will be played by your amp/subs Now if it was LP (low pass) that would mean that any frequencies that are lower than 30Hz, it will be played by the amp/subs. So if you have for example a 60Hz frequency go into the amps input, it will NOT get played by the subs because it is higher than the frequency specified. And just to toss this in there because if you get a fosgate 3sixty.2 in the future, they have an option called Band pass (bp) Bandpass makes it so its a combination of Low Pass and Highpass settings. So for example if you have a band pass setup for 30Hz-80Hz, that means that frequencies from 30Hz through to 80Hz WILL be played. Anything higher or lower than that range will NOT be played by the subs. And yea for two 10's .74 per sub isnt bad. It could play in a bigger box to really hit the lows and have that "cushioning" affect on the bass because if you notice, in small enclosures the bass seems to slam a little harder than in bigger ones that are at the same tuning. its just because of how the sub compresses the air inside the box. But i say stick with that box and you can always improve on it if you decide to. You never want to get too big of an enclosure that the sub cannot handle because you will destroy subs fast (when it comes to speaker desctruction i am the king on SMD for that hahaha). You are never truly stuck with one thing for life on car audio, it can always be improved in one way or another.

for a sealed box i may be wrong but i believe you can go a little bit lower than the actual "tuning" of the box because its made to have a certain frequency it will help you out at even though its sealed. i could be wrong im not 100% all with it for sealed boxes like i am for ported. And for the electrical tape either do that or shrink wrap. anything that will help protect them from touching into eachother on accident if you hit a bump in the road or something like that.

yeah that sounds pretty good to get one that is 37Hz. its a lot safer to go a little above the port tuning because then you have a very low risk of bottoming out the sub since its not below the tuning of the box. Those fmods should do a pretty good job for you from what ive been reading on the web. one thing i would also highly recommend if you do get these fmods is to wrap the outside of them with electrical tape because they are so long they can easily touch eachother and possibly short out. it wont damage your amp but it will stop the sound from coming into your amp. just a little precaution that id take with them thats all.

hmm idk. i think i paid like 150ish for mine a month or so ago. mine was used but in brand new condition. there is a guy selling his for 275 shipped with the tuning discs and knob, all the stuff u need. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/98811-rockford-fosgate-3sixty2/page__p__1367261__hl__3sixty2__fromsearch__1entry1367261 Personally i wouldnt pay more than 175 plus shipping for it but thats just me. i didnt get to fiddle with my 3sixty too much because i dont have all my 5 channels of my surround sound going through my car amp but it did sound like a dream when i had it hooked up to my cheap little 2 channel amp. its deff worth the money if you ask me. Just one thing to make sure is to get the 3sixty.2 NOT 3sixty.1 there is a HUGE difference between the two. the .2 has way more control for you than the .1

ok i gotcha. i didnt know what you meant before. that is my fault. but i need to know the dimensions i said before then i can help you decide what one of those adapters to buy. now just to tell you, the adapters work pretty well from what i have been reading but ARENT all that accurate. if anything i can recommend perhaps saving some money and getting a fosgate 3sixty.2. i myself i have one and just messing around with it on my amps in my bedroom it does a huge improvement in sound quality and has the high pass, low pass, all that good stuff on the inputs/outputs. i love it and with fosgate releasing the 3sixty.3 now, ppl will start selling their .2's fast.

i was thinking of this last night. the only time i would think of putting tweets in the b-pillars would be to have them aimed at the rear seats in your vehicle. if you have them aimed straight (flush mounted on your pillar) then you will be blasting the highs right into your ears and you will have some serious ear damage. hearing the highs is wayyy worse than the lows in my opinion. So unless you can get the tweeters mounted at an angle on the pillars to have them aimed toward the seat in the rear of your vehicle then dont bother putting them in your pillar. just drill a small hole in your door panel toward the top and put them there for the back. thats what most ppl do and its sounds pretty great there.

ok. good luck with the amp. i have heard so many good things from audioque that id go with them.

good point jam, if your amp has a bass boost turn that all the way off. its the smartest thing to do for your amps. bass boost=clipping=burnt coils. like i said i toasted every damn sub i have owned and its sucks and gets expensive. And jam its no big deal. i always stand my ground. its just the kind of guy i am.

i believe that what you just said can apply to you as well sir. setting a amp like a volume knob is not how it works so i did tell him how to do it correctly. im sorry i got your panties in a bunch. op, you can get around with the dmm, just go to someplace like harbor freight, lowes, home depot, or any hardware store like that and get a DMM for like $20. it will do a pretty decent job for you but like i said, set the gains close to the voltage that is on the chart that was previously posted and then turn it back a small amount from that to be safe because amps are not all the same and clip at the ratings that are on the chart, trust me, i know. (let the second round of bashing begin)

a dmm will half-ass what you want to set your gains. like i said, i tested the same guide that was posted here and it is not close to making a clean signal at all. the only perfect way to set your gains is to get an oscope but if you cant afford one, a dmm will get you buy but id say turn the gain back maybe like a little less than 1/8 of a inch for safe measure.

wtf are you guys smoking???? the gain on a amp is NOT a volume knob. the gain is used to match the voltage rms that is going through the rca cables into the amp. if your amp is rated at 1000 rms and your sub is rated at 1000 rms you cant set the gain all the way up thinking "well if its up all the way that means im getting 1000 watts out of the amp" that is NOT AT ALL how amps work. if you dont know then dont respond and have someone else fuck up their system.

i have a stetsom 2k6d. its the 2 ohm version and its been modded so there is no internal fuse and i had it work great. only problem is that i never clamped it because when i was using it a few months ago before i melted my solox from it (totally my fault lol) i didnt have my oscope or clamp meter. its a powerful amp and sounds very great. Ill do 350 shipped if you are interested. let me know.

lol youre welcome. and yes i know the site is badly designed. i could have my parents make a better site and they suck at computers. lol. but i found another site that had them as well that is easy to navigate through: http://www.earmarkcaraudio.com/Xcart/product.php?productid=17089&cat=269&page=1 and http://store.hlabs.com/pk4/store.pl?view_product=10 the second one in my opinion is better. more to select from. but they are very easy to hook up. its like a 2 second job. just take your rca cables that you normally will put straight into the amp(s) you are using and then plug one of these adapters/modulators into the amps rca inputs and then put your rca cable right onto the module itself. basically it goes inbetween your rca wire that runs from your headunit to your amp to your amp. If you look close, the fmod adapter has a male and female RCA connector on it. The male RCA end is what gets connected to your amp(s) where the female RCA end is what you hook your rca cables into that run from your headunit to your amps. Hope that clears things up.

hershey just to warn you, that chart that loud civic posted is NOT accurate. I used it just for the hell of it with my amps and no matter what you do or how expensive of a DMM you use, it still has a bit of clipping going on. the ONLY and i mean the ONLY way to avoid a clipped signal is to get yourself a o-scope. they really arent that much, i was hesitant to buy the tpi scope like everyone and their mother uses on here but for how cheap it was and all the things it can do i was a fool not to get one.

heres what another member on here suggested to me because my stetsom 2k6d amp i have doesnt have a subsonic filter and is the reason why i blew up my subs because my box was tuned high and the low notes were hitting it and destroying the cone because the sub was bottoming out: http://www.hlabs.com/technical/crossovers/ They are called fmods. i personally havent run one but was about to get a set of them for my stetsom amp but i am getting another 2 amps from a guy on here that has a subsonic filter.

im sure someone on here will start slamming me for it but i have my first fuse for the wire going from my front batt to my rear batt about 5 feet from the battery. the shorter you can get it, the better it is so then if the wire gets punctured and touches the frame, fender, etc. it wont keep arcing because the fuse will blow and stop it from damaging your stuff. if anything for how you described having that plastic cover over the battery, see if you can either drill a small hole for the 1/0 to fit through or cut a small corner off the plastic and sneak the wire under that. but if i were you, put something around where the plastic is just to protect the wire from getting cut or anything with that mud-cover.

good luck with doing the cabling in the cold. one thing i noticed myself is that my 1/0 wire does not like to be moved around when its cold. it gets so stiff that its hard to re-route. if its in the 50's or higher outside you shouldnt have a problem. and just a fyi, if you try to get around using that bolt i linked to you, you will soon find out that the bolt that GM throws on the batteries is larger than the hole on your 1/0 terminal so you will either have to drill it out more or ream the hole of your 0 gauge terminal.

heres what id say to buy, i used them before in my old car before i had the xs power batt to hook right to the top leads and they work great: http://darvex.com/store/pc/XScorpion-Standard-GM-Battery-Terminal-14p234.htm Its just like the stock bolt that is holding the positive and negative lead on your battery itself but it has an extra nut on it dedicated to the extra power/ground wires for your amp and alternator. Id suggest to get 2 because since you are doing the big 3 upgrade you will need one of these to hookup 2 of your wires to the positive terminal and another 2 to go to your ground terminal.

personally id say go straight to the batt, just make sure it is protected/covered well to prevent it from shorting out. i have a co-worker whose truck has the same style setup but his battery is underneath the air dam for his truck and the guys who installed his system for him put the positive wire of his amp to the aux wire on the engine. You have to remember, that wire that they have running to the extra post that is relocated in your engine bay is probably at most 4 gauge wire and its meant to run ONLY your cars accessories and a few other small devices, not a 2kw system. So if i were you, and you can, get the positive wire for your amp(s) and put it straight to that battery because then its a dedicated power wire just for your amp(s) and isnt sharing a heavy load with the rest of the cars electrical.

just a suggestion... I myself own a dc audio 175.4 amp and i love it. the quality is very good, only complaint is the settings for band pass since its directed toward subs, not door speakers which is no big deal to me but i love the quality and how well it performs. Maybe a dc audio 2k will do justice for you. They rate it at 2000 rms at 1 ohm which personally i think you should do because like everyone on here you will always get more subs/speakers and bigger and better stuff in the future and buying amps all the time is a pain. From what a friend of mine on here said is that dc amps are under-rated quite a bit. Now i did not have my 175.4 clamped so i cannot say off hand that they are but i can imagine they are under-rated. And just to clarify, you are wiring them im parallel too. If both your coils on the sub are dual 2 ohms like you said then you would wire it in parallel to get a 1 ohm load (positive of voice coil 1 to the positive on voice coil 2, negative of vc 2 to the neg on vc1. Just wanted to make sure you were aware of that.

lmao i thought the same. i was waiting for when the match was dropped to see it turn into an inferno but it was just a joke. hahaha

nah, i dont need a souvenir, i have pics of that pile of shit in my computer. i still say you should strap that to a rocket and see if it launches up in the air. haha

Thank you cody for taking this POS off my hands and doing what id do to it. you did a great job with it im happy.

if you think his laugh was bad you should have heard my evil laugh when it blew up and just wait until he posts up the second vid. if he does the suggestion i made it will go out with a bigger bang than the best woofer in the world.