kickass audio

Ok, so heres the deal. My current amp (precision power pc2350) is a 2 channel amp with a variable high/low pass crossover. Its rated for 350 watts rms per channel on a 4 ohm load, 700 watts rms on a 2 ohm load per channel, and of course how i have it wired now; 1400 watts on a 4-8 ohm bridge. since i love how this beast sounds on my woofer i decided to hook it up to some component speakers and it sounds MINT!! but i was thinking of doing this, instead of me buying an entire new amp that is 4 channel for my mids and highs i wanted to use this amp since it can me modded with the flick of a button for high pass on the amp. I personally dont think how this would be bad at all to do because to be honest im not using surround sound in my car or anything like that where i need the rear to act as a surround channel like my home theater system. But heres how i was thinking to setup my amps and speakers: 1 precision power pc2350 2 channel amp wired to 4 ohms per channel (350 watts rms) rear speakers: Kicker KS 6x9"s 3 way speakers (model ks6930, 100 watts rms) Front door speakers: Kicker 5.25" KS component set with crossovers and tweeters (model ks50.2, 65 watts rms) 1 Audioque AQ3300d.1 amp for the woofer 1 12" Kicker SoloX woofer (2500 rms) Since the combined rms of the mids and highs is only 165 watts and the amp can put 350 rms on 4 ohms do you think that this would be feasible? I have heard several people on here saying that by using a big ass amp for small speakers that you can blow them but i can prove them wrong from past experience but i want to see what everyone says about this. (NOTE: i do plan to use this setup for my car and when i get my next vehicle im going to throw even more speakers in and possibly learn how to custom fab door panels and really get up to the 350 watt rms range of my amp) but let me know what you think whether it be good or bad, i want to know!!

dang, my d3100 is crying in my hall just waiting to get installed. lol. if it wasnt for how my trunk was designed ass backwards id throw it in there temporarily and block it down with my heavy tool box but then again i dont want an expensive battery flying loose and with that kind of power to blow up my trunk, lol. but i hope its soon because i want this installed before the snow starts flying in new york state.

my car did the same thing, but my guess is that the car was in a collision before i bought it because the rear driver side has missing parts and is marked with the marker they use to inspect the car after accidents. but my trunk did the same thing, it would get so wet that you could smell mold (luckilly it never reached my box because thats elevated in my trunk) but i found where it was leaking. Some cars in the wheel wheel have an area where the inner part of the well meets the outside. its kinda hard to explain it since i have no clue what they call it. but best part to find it is look in your trunk (peel back all the carpeting on the side of the trunk that is wet) and look for a lip in the metal where the wheel well is. The lip on my driver side was not sealed at all, and the weld was so shitty on it. so i sealed it up quite a bit with some undercoating spray and then some silicone caulk (ghetto but who cares, it worked and nobody sees it) and since then my trunk NEVER gets wet. but another thing you can try is to take a sheet of paper and place it so that it rests on the trunks rubber seal and close the trunk, move the paper around and see if you feel any spots where it seems very loose, those spots are where you should either re-enforce the seal with some window foam or get a new weather strip for the trunk (which a new weather strip costs around $50 sometimes) but i hope this gets you going on it. best of luck.

hey Nate, any updates on the hold down for my d3100? i got the battery but no hold down.

i think this is in the wrong thread but idc. try this... check your connectors within the cigarette lighter. sometimes as the lighter is used a lot the little "springs" inside will wear down and not be so tight against the device you have installed in the lighter. or try some diaelectric grease (VERY VERY LITTLE OF IT THOUGH) and put it on the tip and outer connector of your device you are connecting. Also check for fuses within the plug make sure that the device you are plugging in isnt shorted out or has a blown fuse. my secondary lighter in my car has it where it only works with the ignition turned to on. acc, or any other mode but on will not make the secondary lighter port get power. hope this works

i know this thread is mad old but what would you want for the headunit? i wanted to buy that one at bestbuy awhile back but it was broken since it was used and i fell in love with the interface on it. my h-u i have now unfortunally doesnt have high volt pre-out (2v) or usb (i bought the ip bus to rca connector) but its a decent headunit. Give me a price if you still have it!!!

yes they can be. wiring speakers is like this... wire in series, double the impedance. wire in parallel, half the impedance. so in your case, if you wire in parallel (coil 1 + to coil 2+ as well as the coil 1/2 negs) you will get .5 ohms. but if you wire in series (coil 1- and coil 2 + connected together and then use coil 1+ as the positive lead and then coil 2 - as your negative lead to go to your amp then you will get a 2 ohm load. but you also have to figure in impedance rise with your sub and box. so dont think that your sitting resistance will be what the amp sees when the sub is in motion.

first off... Nice sub in your pic Chris. Im using the same thing (well was in my car about 3 months ago) now im using the elevation audio sqx in my room, its a rock solid sub espically for me feeding that little thing 1400 watts rms daily!! haha. Second... go for an audioque or something different. audiopipes are good from what ive heard but to be honest all the pros and installers i talk to say that since they are out of business that your best bet would buy from a brand where if u fry the amp you can get it repaired cheaper than be out all that money to get another amp. im going to be getting an audioque aq3500d.1 amp for my kicker solox (probably going to put another solox in my trunk next year) but every guy i talk to about it says its a solid as hell amp. Id either go with a sundown or audioque amp.

when i get pics from Nate i will do that for you. But right now i dont have any idea what it looks like. I just trust that its nothing thats going to look like crap because their other hold-downs look really good and xs power batts are awesome. i own one and it kicks so much power to my amp that i could run 3 cars off it.

just for people who may read this and wonder. I did get a hold of nate and order my stuff. He has been one hell of a guy to go to for help. Sometimes it takes awhile to get a hold of him but he is a busy man. And plus i work in a call center daily and i know how hard it is to call back the ppl i say i will callback when you have a ton of calls pouring in on you. Anyway, cant wait to get the d3100 and the hold down for it.

ok, so how do you wire a tach wire? i have no clue how to do that. ill admit it, im a noob at remote start/security systems but the guys we bought the remote start from screwed up both the vehicles we had them install. if you guide me through it i can do it i can do it.

alright, so since you helped me with that stupidly easy question maybe you can help address these... 1.) How do you get into the programmer feature so that i can decrease the amount of time the engine cranks to do a remote start? Right now the engine will crank for about 2.5 to 3 seconds before it either turns the engine over, or if the engine is extremely cold (about 20 degrees Fahrenheit) it will not succeed and will retry the engine starting sequence. Since the engine is usually warm (around 40 to 90 degrees) it starts in like 1.5 to at the most 2 seconds. since it goes this fast and the remote start doesnt catch up on it i wanted to stop the starter grinding that occurs. 2.) When i shut off the car and get out of it and lock up the doors the interior lights stay on for a good 2 minutes. how can i decrease the time or make it so that when i hit the lock button that the interior lights turn off? Again, i looked at the installer menus and im confused as hell at how to program this unit. any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!!!

wow, that worked. thanks so much!!!!! i read the stupid manual and it said 5 seconds.

Ok, so my dad has a compustar rf-1wg2-am remote starter in his 1997 chevy tahoe. personally i hate the remote starter on his tahoe as well as another compustar remote starter on my moms car which i hate since they cannot be programmed like my omega remote start/alarm can be. but thats besides the point. im having a ton of problems with my dads remote start in particular. he has the horn output wired up and it does NOT silence at all. i tried to hold the lock and unlock buttons for 5 seconds like the manual says and it will flash the lights and when you unlock, lock, or pop the hatch with the remote the damn horn goes off. ive tried to do this 3 times and nothing makes a difference no matter how long i wait. is there anything you can direct me toward in possibly finding the lead that the horn is tapped into to shut the horn off? my dad hates the horn feature and since he locks/unlocks the truck a ton and he did that so much that he burned out the stock horn on his tahoe and has an aftermarket horn that has a fucked up note and it sounds like a toyota. lmao. But any help with this would be greatly appreciated. i cant figure it out and thats pathetic. lol.

this is the difference... i asked nate the same thing and he informed me this... "The s series batteries have a reinforced steel casing whereas the d series just has the plastic casing." So the s series has a little more integrity than a d series. I own an s3400 batt under my hood now and i just ordered my d3100 from nate today. xs power batts are awesome and i believe they are under-rated. I had my s3400 tested when it was new and it tested at 1060 crank amps. I just had that same battery tested about 2 weeks ago and it tested at 1200 crank amps!! Im using that battery to power a 1400 watt rms amp at 4 ohms and it will let me crank the power without the engine on for about 1 hour before i have to turn the engine on to charge it back up. xs power is one hell of a battery to use. Hope this helps clarify the difference for you!

Ok, so ive tried to email you a few times and havent received any reply back. I just wanted to know how the billet hold down you were talking about will secure my d3100 in my trunk. pics would be awesome or a general drawing/sketch for me. I will call you tomorrow to buy the battery but just wanted to see how i will secure this battery in my trunk using the hold down module you said can be made for this battery. Thanks in advance and im still happy to own the s3400 i got from you back in april this year.

to be honest with you. all the ones ive looked at from him are 399. and the beauty is that i bought an alt for my 98 oldsmobile 88 and he said i can send the alt back to him for $20 and he will recase it to fit my 1997 tahoe i plan to get in the near future. thats one hell of a deal.

he is definitally the cheapest and by far the fastest at responding to any questions whether they be dumb or very detailed questions. I cant wait until i get the alt i just bought from him today.

dude seriously im pretty new in the car audio field (been doing it for 4 years now) and i know to always wire in parallel (for batts) amps at the most can to up to 16 or 18 volts for amps that have fairly unregulated psu's on them. my amp im using now however is tightly regulated and no matter the voltage it puts out nearly the same rms power but will draw more current to keep the voltage the same and to keep the rms power the same level. the only and i repeat ONLY thing you can wire in series is your speakers NEVER EVER the batteries. your car will instantly explode if not melt from hooking it to 24 volts.

great to hear that you are doing ok Steve!!!! Still wishing u and your family the best out of it all. If you want to get rid of the infection fast just sit in your hoe or chickens ride and crank the bass. you will kill everything in your body and maybe even pop out an eye hahaha. anyways wishing for a speedy recovery!!

awesome. where did you get the dual bracket from? did dominick build it for you?

nice, what type did you get? did yours come with the adjustable voltage output on the alts?

wow this is awesome to hear. i have heard numerous times on the forums about how awesome he is just thought id see what everybody else thinks of his products. i really like that im saving $300 from it having the voltage control built into the alt, thats really nice to have and for the price you are right, it cant be beat. the lowest price next to mechman was $480 and that was from excessive amperage for a 300 amp alt, and $499 from xs power for a 250 amp alt. (not that i dont like xs power, i love the s3400 battery i own now and will be buying a d3100 battery from them after my alternator purchase) but the prices are killers. but its really great to hear that you like your products from him.

Ok, so heres what i was priced on. I was quoted $399 for an 250 max amps alternator that will do about 150 amps at idle. First, is this a good price? it is a hybrid alt from what i was told and will have an adjustable voltage screw where i can mess with the voltage output of the alt. Second: Will this be alright to work temporarily (at most 1 month) with one xs power s3400 battery powering a 1400 watts rms @ 8 ohms bridge for a load without frying the alt? Third: Anybody have anything good or bad to say about mechman?

yea, thats what i was thinking as well. Right now i only have my 200 amp fuse that is 3 feet from my batt to the fuse holder. then the 1/0 keeps going straight back to my cap (which i know is shit but it worked like a charm for my old school 500 watt amp) and from the cap right to the amp. so the fuse in my engine is all i have. the only thing i was thinking to do is that my amp is old and doesnt put out enough power i can feed my woofer so i was going to get an audioque 3500d.1 amp which takes 2 inputs of 0 gauge. i was thinking to keep the 250 amp fuse in my engine as well as having a xs power d3100 in my trunk (to replace the cap) and from the d3100, ill use a short run of 1/0 to the amp and have each positive have a 200 amp fuse. do you think that its too much power loss from using 3 fuses? i really dont need a car fire since i almost lost my car from it (stupid 4 gauge wire came loose on a "0/4 gauge compatible" anl fuse holder and caused it to get loose, melt the wire, and burn up without blowing the fuse at all. but let me know what you all think of what i plan to do when im upgrading the amp to the aq 3500d.1