kickass audio

I thought about the whole idea of the metal being exposed one next to the other and heres how you can fix that. Either get a pack of ring terminals and slip one of the rubber boots that they come with over the top of the wire and the reducer or get some shrink wrap tubing and put that over both pieces and be done. You can do both if you prefer too. You can also get a distribution block to go from 1/0 to 4ga. Use a distro block for your positive to go from 1/0 to 4ga and then get some 4ga wire to use as your ground and call it a day. 4ga is pretty cheap and Knu has theirs with a great amount of wire strands and a great price too.

I have quit 6 jobs so far and every one i have always said it like "(insert boss' names here) I would like to let you know that I have found a position elsewhere that is closer to the career i am pursuing with my education and personal interests and would like to give you my two weeks notice" Now some bosses like to have a formal letter about this to keep on their file for HR reasons so be prepared with one. Some places can be douchebags and just remove you from the schedule on the spot so be prepared to not come back to work the next day and have some money put aside if you havent already to cover that gap in income. Other than that you should be fine, what are they gonna do to you anyways fire you? bahahaha

That should deff help. Let me know how it goes for you.

How hard is it to pull out the sub and feel the motor? If its fairly easy check it that way and see. It could be like fox_racing4 said and just need to be worn in a bit. I had that with my mids when they were new and they smelled like i was frying them for a month before it broke in and never had the smell again.

8ga is very overkill for that. I would run 10 gauge for it unless you have a lot of 8ga laying around. For your eq, is that sharing the same +12v and ground on your radio? If so just upgrading the wire for both will be more than good enough for you.

That should fix it. Im very confident in it fixing it. the power wires for the dashboard suck and are so thin that they will be super sensitive to excess current being drawn. Those power packs arent that big but for the stock wiring harness they are. Id keep the rest of your headunit on the wiring harness but where the wire comes off of your headunit for the power and grounds id just put them to your battery or something close like a distro block, etc.

The radio has a poor wiring system for the power and ground. I would upgrade the power and ground wires for it, you could use a relay if you wished but thats just stupid. Id just upgrade the power and grounds and connect them to the battery. Even stock radio's ive seen in my truck had the dimming with them when the bass hits. Think of it like this... You have the power pack on your headunit and even with just the mids and highs its a lot more power output than the stock OEM radio will draw and having that go through the OEM 18-20ga wire is not going to work well. Its like an amplifier. If you have an amp connected in the back on a battery there may be some voltage drop at the amp but not in the rest of the system. This is exactly what you are facing. Also ive noticed this with my Envoy, the charging system on the envoy's and trailblazers are weird. What ive noticed whether i have any draws on or not, if i turn the knob for my interior lights and stare at them i can see the lights pulsating with the engine running but when i turn it off it stops. I have no change in voltage when i use my DMM or o-scope so idk whats causing that fast flicker but im not really worried about it. edit: i forgot to mention, my headunit (alpine iva-w205) did the same thing with the backlight for my lcd screen on the headunit and i didnt run a power pack off the radio. I was running the headunit with the stock speakers too and everytime the bass would play the backlight on my lcd would flicker with the beat but as soon as i disconnected the speakers from using the amps outputs and connected the speakers to an actual amplifier i never have had that problem ever again.

you dont have to get an adapter for it. What i did with my dd-1 and cc-1 was clip the negative lead around the outside part of the rca and hold the red probe off the tool to the middle (longer) part of the rca. I played the test tones and figured out the clipping and all that. I also just to make sure it worked the same checked my headunit through the amp just like mentioned in the manual with the same results. Some rca's you can just plug straight into the dd-1 and cc-1 however i found that only RF rca's fit in the opening as most other manufacturers have thick outer terminals that wont allow it to go into the rca connector on the tool itself unless i drill out the case on the dd-1 and cc-1 but im still skeptical about doing that and ruining such a great product.

Did you set your subsonic on the amp at all? It sounds just like my SMD used to do when i dropped below the port freq too far. It would play and get a smell for a second or two but would be fairly warm to the touch. I set the subsonic filter a half-assed way with a DMM (yes i know thats not accurate but i didnt have the CC-1 like i do now and wanted to get that set as i kept bottoming the sub out and popping the dustcap off) and it never got hot like that again. Also you are not using any bass boost or anything like that correct? Even with the dd-1 being as accurate as it is bass boost is still very bad to have because if you have 3 songs and one of those has that same freq that your bass boost raises at a high level you will be clipping the sub to all hell. Make sure your bass boost is turned completely off, loudness is turned completely off, and your eq is set to flat and if you have a CC-1 set your subsonic filter. I f you dont have a cc-1 the half ass way of setting it (note: this is by absolutely no means accurate but its better than just winging it) play a test tone (you can make these in audacity for free, just google how to do so) of the freq you want to have your subsonic/infrasonic filter set to (typically its 2Hz below your port tuning. so if you have your box tuned to lets say 45Hz, make a test tone at 43Hz). Disconnect the subwoofer from the amp outputs and plug in a DMM. With the subsonic/infrasonic set all the way off or to the left-most position play the 43Hz test tone. Observe the voltage. Now take 3/4 of that voltage and write that voltage down. The voltage you calculated a minute ago will be the voltage you will want to achieve when you turn up your subsonic/infrasonic filter. Now start to turn up the subsonic/infrasonic filter up until you reach that voltage you calculated. Connect the sub and see how it does. Again that method is very inaccurate but its better than just eyeballing it or anything like that. And i would set your gains at a 0db tone to start out with and see if your subs still get hot. If they do you are clipping them somewhere in your system and need to look over all of your settings. If the subs run cool with the gains set to 0db then you will want to adjust the gains with a -5db tone. Little note: When i set my gains with the dd-1 and adjusted the x-over with the cc-1, i played a 0db tone for finding the volume level of my headunit and setting the gain on my 3sixty.2. For the amps i set those with the -5db track. That way i know i have 0 clipping before the amp and any clipping is a result of my amp not anything else (as long as the songs never exceed 0db but thats rarely if ever going to happen)

I dont have a kinetik battery however i do have several xs batteries in my truck and they have always put out a ton of power and never fell below 12.8v even in the coldest weather i had them in (-10 degrees Fahrenheit) it never had any problem cranking my truck and i even went right in to blast my system right after i started the truck up for a minute. It sounds like the battery itself may have just had a defect in it. AGM should never freeze as there is no actual moving liquid like normal wet cell batteries that come with your car when you buy it. XS power actually cut open a XS D3100, kinetik, and an optima battery in a video on youtube and they all will not spill any liquid as they are pretty much like concrete in there for the acid being suspended.

HTC thunderbolt 4g-lte for me. It has android 2.3.4 on it and is fully rooted which means i can get rid of all the bloatware and crap on it as well as FREE WIRELESS TETHER FTMFW!!! I use over 1.5 gigs of data each day im tethered to my phone (typically saturdays and sundays) and i deleted all the crap software that came with the phone. The biggest thing i can say to do with your phone is to get it rooted, download wireless tether for your phone, and i LOVE the app called blackmart It allows you to get paid apps for free on your android powered device. And for the basics as i know probably half of you dont know what rooting really is, its super easy to do if you can follow the directoins lol. But what it does is give you full access to do anything and everything with your phone. You can install a custom bootloader to make backup images, restore your phone, update the rom, etc. Rooting your phone not only makes it even easier to fix if you were to brick your phone but also lets you do whatever you want to on your phone at any time. If its one thing i cannot live without its that wireless tether app that i have. I was heavy on using it with my previous phone Motorola DroidX but that was only a 3g phone, now that my thunderbolt is 4g i cannot get over the speeds of 17 down and 10 up for surfing the web and doing anything with. Its faster than my home internet. lmfao

i apologize it has taken me this long to get to this topic. It seems my email update function for when ppl post after me was turned off. Anyways.... I noticed that my 3sixty.2 was off a lot (iirc like 20Hz for the high end of my tweeters and 5Hz for my mids). I had it setup so that the tweeters were on highpass at 1.5kHz and the mids were on bandpass from 65Hz through 1.5kHz. I set everything back up with my DD-1 first and my headunit was originally set at a volume of 28 but it found distortion on 27 so i set that there and then i set my 3sixty.2's outputs up and then my amps. Heres how i set my equipment and i know this is not correct before steve, tony or juan chime in but i also verified it the correct way (negative alligator clip of the dd-1/cc-1 to the ground of the battery and red/positive probe off the dd-1/cc-1 to the positive of the rca and speaker outputs). I did however follow the manual precisely as it was directed for setting up my amps as they have a high voltage output unlike my rca outputs. When i setup my headunit with the dd-1: 1.) Made sure my headunit was on defeat (its a feature for most alpine units which disables the fader, eq, and crossover settings, basically it sets everything to flat and just passes the signal off to the amps or in my case my 3sixty.2) 2.) I played the 1.0kHz and 40Hz test tones at a -5db attenuation on my headunit and made note of the volume levels in which it showed distortion for all the outputs. (you dont really have to do this but i did it to be 100% sure im not clipping or getting any distortion on ANY output of my headunit) 3.) When i connected my DD-1 to the headunits rca outputs i first had it hooked up so that the alligator clip of the dd-1 was clipped around the outside ring of the rca (right near where you grab them to install them) and the red/positive test lead of the dd-1 was on the middle probe of the rca. I did this for every single rca output on my headunit and made note of where the volume would show distortion. What i happened to notice is that my headunit would clip at 29 out of 35 with a 40Hz tone playing but it would clip with the volume at 28 out of 35 for a 1kHz tone playing. I decided to set everything up with my headunit set to a volume of 27 as i know the radio wont clip at all. notes: for setting up some headunits such as mine you need to have the subwoofer up to 15 out of 15 to achieve the true 4v rms voltage and have no distortion or clipping so you may need to do this too depending on your headunit. Also note do NOT turn up any of your bass, mid or treble settings and keep loudness turned off and make sure the balance and fade is set to 0. You will keep your headunit like this throughout the entire process of tuning and setting your gains. when i setup my 3sixty.2 with the dd-1: 1.) I first already had my 3sixty.2 setup to auto-eq and flatten out my eq curve for me. If you didnt do this do it now, it takes like 5-10 minutes for it to do this. Just go to file>new install>oem source and follow the steps listed on the screen. 2.) Disconnect the rca outputs from the 3sixty.2 and connect the dd-1 up so that the alligator clip goes on the outer most connection for the rca outputs and that the red/positive probe of the dd-1 goes into the inside of the rca jack. 3.) Make sure your speaker outputs have no crossover settings turned on while you do this setup. For the subwoofer you cannot turn off the lowpass so i set it up to 80Hz and didnt worry about running a 1kHz tone on the subwoofer output. 4.) I kept my headunit at volume 27 and played a 40Hz tone at -5db and a 1kHz tone at -5db for each output. I noticed that the clip light on the 3sixty.2 would flicker but my dd-1 didnt have the distortion light lit up so if this happens to you dont worry its fine. when i setup my amps with the dd-1 (please note, i do not currently have my SMD or dc 5.0k installed so i only setup my 175.4 but its the same thing for any amp really): 1.) Make sure your 3sixty.2 is still set to fullpass and that your subwoofer lowpass is up as high as it can go and that your amps are set to fullpass, if fullpass cannot be achieved set the infrasonic/subsonic/high pass filter to the lowest setting and the lowpass filter to the highest setting. 2.) Connect the black alligator clip of the dd-1 to your battery's negative/ground connection and then connect the red/positive probe of your dd-1 to the left channel positive of one output. (please make note, in the manual some amps including my 175.4 will have it so that you cannot just put the positive probe of the dd-1 to all the positive speaker outputs, i had to connect my dd-1 so that it was the left positive and right negative per channel. Just connect the positive probe to the positive output channel first and if you do not see any reading on your dd-1 then connect it to the negative of the speakers output.) 3.) I turned the gain up until the distortion light came on for my left channel positive and then i connected the probe to the right channel negative output and made sure it wasnt clipping there at all. (please note, i found that my 175.4 would go into protect even with me pausing the test tones while i was setting the gains when i swapped the probe around on the amps outputs so if you happen to notice that your not getting any signal on the dd-1 look at the protect light, if its illuminated just power off the system and back on and it should return to normal.) Now the fun part, setting your 3sixty.2 and amps with the cc-1. Setup your 3sixty.2 with the cc-1: 1.) Disconnect the rca outputs off the 3sixty.2 and connect the black alligator clip around the outermost ring of the rca and insert the red lead into the rca output. 2.) Make a decision on what you want to set your crossovers to for your entire system, if you are not sure refer to the included manual as a reference point. You will want to make note of what track and tones you set each output at as you will be playing these tones again when you setup your amps crossover too. 3.) Once you decide what you want to set the crossover to play that track of the crossover frequency you want to set at on your headunit at the highest volume before clipping. 4.) You can adjust the crossover slope at your discretion between 12 and 24db, i normally recommend 24 for tweeters and 12 for mids and subs but i am running my mids and highs both at 24db and i love how they sound now, its so much punchier. DO THIS BEFORE YOU PROCEED TO SETTING YOUR CROSSOVER FREQ AS IT WILL THROW IT OFF GREATLY IF YOU DO THIS AFTER SETTING THE X-OVER SETTINGS!! 5.) For each output (left and right unless you have the 3sixty.2 setup to share the crossover settings for both sides) you will turn the crossover up or down as indicated by the led's on your cc-1. (now originally i was using a 60Hz highpass for my mids but the cc-1 didnt have a 60Hz track so i set it to 63 instead, not a big difference though, i dont think its bad) Setup your amps with the cc-1: 1.) Connect the rca outputs of the 3sixty.2 to the amps and disconnect the speaker outputs of your amps. Keep the 3sixty.2's crossover settings to the designated settings you made in the previous setup. 2.) Connect the black alligator clip of the dd-1 to your battery's negative/ground connection and then connect the red/positive probe of your cc-1 to the left channel positive of one output. (please make note, in the manual some amps including my 175.4 will have it so that you cannot just put the positive probe of the dd-1 to all the positive speaker outputs, i had to connect my cc-1 so that it was the left positive and right negative per channel. Just connect the positive probe to the positive output channel first and if you do not see any reading on your cc-1 then connect it to the negative of the speakers output.) 3.) Now you need to decide whether you are going to use lowpass, highpass, bandpass, or subsonic on your amps. Once you make that decision you will set the switch on the amp accordingly and make sure that for lowpass the knob is turned to the right mode position and for your highpass/subsonic set it at the left most position. 4.) Play the test tones you used while setting the crossover on your 3sixty.2 (now please note you may already be calibrated but keep doing this anyway) 5.) If you are setting the lowpass on your amp and it is already calibrated turn up the lowpass until you notice that the arrow pointing downward on the cc-1 is lighting up, when this happens turn the lowpass down a bit until it is back to being calibrated. If you are setting the highpass/subsonic of your amplifier start turning it down until the up arrow illuminates on your cc-1, when this occurs turn the knob down a bit to get it calibrated. Thats what i did for my entire system step by step and it sounds amazing and is so much clearer and louder. edit: For anyone thinking that just setting the 3sixty.2 will be good dont think like this at all. First of all i had my infrasonic filter screw up a few times on my SMD and cause it to unload out of nowhere for a couple seconds and then it turned back on. I set the amps as a backup so if the filters on my 3sixty decide to take a shit on me again out of nowhere it wont kill my speakers also it wont hurt to have them both on and running together so why the hell not.

brake cleaner, brake fluid, and power steering fluid will eat your paint right off. Id see if you can try to heat it up and scrape it off carefully. Sometimes the glue OEM places use will come off easier with heat applied to them.

dude just drop it. Its fine for where it is set now. My truck loves to be in the 14.9's to 15.4 when its cold but it goes to 14.45-14.66v once its warm. Its normal for alts to do this. There is no alternator on the market that does not change its voltage output with the temperature of the alternator.

The vents for xs batteries are just underneath the label on the top of the battery. If they are venting they will start to push upwards and you will see a crack in the label on the battery. I highly doubt you have had this happen. Ive had my xs batts at over 15.4 when it was colder than 30 degrees outside. It stayed in that voltage for about 45 minutes of my drive and then went to 14.4 where it needed to be. Ive seen several people run at 15v flat with a 12v battery without any problems but it can shorten the life of your battery by doing so. I was thinking of getting an adjustable voltage module from mechman but as my truck never charges less than 14.45v i am just going to leave it as is.

I too can vouch for the CC-1 being such a great tool to have. I received mine today and right when i got home from class today i went to my truck and setup my entire system again. I started with my DD-1 and noticed i was clipping a bit but not hard, just a slight tweak fixed it. I then went to my CC-1 and even using a RF 3sixty.2 the crossover points were still off by a ton. After i set it up with the CC-1 i played my music and i cannot believe how something simple and easy to use like the DD-1 and CC-1 can make your system really sound great. I am really impressed in the quality of the tool as well as the accuracy in it. My system just improved 10 fold for me.

My tinsel leads did the same on my SMD. The sub never got hot and only bottomed out 2 times throughout the entire time i used it which was because the damn remote knob on my 3sixty.2 has problems where the volume will out of nowhere go full tilt and back to where i set the knob so im going to remove the knob when i reinstall the system in 2 years. It too burnt 2 leads (1 per coil) and was on its way to burning a 3rd lead but the sub quit out before it got too far into that. I know it was clipping a few times with how the bass would fluctuate with that bass knob so i admit it was user error with that god damn bass knob. Id recone it like im doing to my SMD and set your gains to a -5db or if you want the best a 0db tone and set the freq on the amp correctly. I am still learning other things that may have caused my leads to burn and break like they did but im sure clipping and those few times it bottomed out didnt help any.

Its the presale price and I believe something like 12-17 bucks off extra. Just add the cost of the dd-1 and cc-1 and then subtract that value from the cost of the combo. The combo is cheaper than getting the two independently

Steve can you also possibly get Tony and Juan to sign the dd-1 and cc-1 too? It would be awesome to have the three of you sign it. Again order 100001292. Thanks again bro.

order 100001292, Ordered the dd-1 and cc-1. can you please sign both of them for me Steve? Thanks in advance!!

Yes the song at 2:05 is E40 - My Shit Bang. i will guarantee it to you because i have all of e40's albums and i play that song a ton. lol.

It will support it but keep a close eye on your voltage. I ran a 1400w rms amp that sucked well over 90 amps of power on its own. My voltage would go as low as 13.2 at full tilt so it wasnt too bad but its still not getting charged fully. If anything i usually recommend getting a new alternator first. Its the strongest but most expensive part of your electrical system. Without a good alt you can end up having a boat load of batteries to help with the poor charging system you may have and still get voltage drop. Not very efficient or effective to have 10 deep cycle batteries when you could just jump right to the alt and even keep the stock battery for a bit until you can afford a nice agm battery and run the system without major issues. Just dont be stupid and run the system with the car off without a good battery or two. I used a s3400 (same thing as the d3400 but with a heavier outside case made to hold up to the temperature under your hood from the engine) and i could hammer on that for hours before the voltage got to 12.3v and i turned the car back on for 5 mins to charge it back up to 13.2v and it was fine. I recommend the same thing to anyone else who needs electrical system upgrades and i tell them to do it like this. 1.) Perform the big-3 upgrade (1/0 from alt+ to battery +, 1/0 from a solid bolt on the engine (preferably the case of the alternator if you can get to it) to the - on your battery, 1/0 from the strut tower/frame of your vehicle to the - on your battery 2.) Upgrade the alternator and continue to utilize the wire you ran for the big-3 3.) If voltage is still an issue consider replacing the stock battery with something like the xs power s3400 or d3400 and if still needed another deep cycle agm battery. Typically for most systems including yours just doing step 1 and 2 will be way more than enough power to run the hell out of your system as long as your engine is on. Dont think about doing just step 1 and 2 but slamming on the radio with the car off.

it isnt hard to do at all just like previously mentioned get all the tools you need for it and have knives on standby when the one you use gets dull. I did my enclosure differently though. Instead of felt carpet i used indoor/outdoor carpet (i just liked the look of it haha) and used indoor/outdoor glue that came in a 3 gallon container. I then put it on just like you would for linoleum flooring (my dad used to install carpets and flooring so he has all the tools) and put the glue on with a grooved spreader. Then i let it get somewhat tacky by letting it sit for about a minute. Lined up the carpet and pretty much rolled the box onto it. Then i used a carpet stretcher and roller to stretch the carpet nice and tightly around the box. Then used the roller to work in the glue into the fibers of the carpet. After it was nice and flat i took my pneumatic (electric works just as well too) and nailed the edges and made an x-pattern on each side to help hold the edge of the carpet together when i get to the next side and continue to stretch it out. The hardest part is really when you get to the seams and sides. I didnt watch the video but the easiest way around that is to take two pieces of the carpet and fold it one over the other very tightly. Then once its tight just take a new knife blade and cut through both pieces of the carpet. This will make a perfectly symmetric seam. Once its done slap some glue on there (or spray it on) and put the carpet down. It sounds like a lot but believe me once you do it its super easy. The biggest pain in the ass for me was getting the carpet to roll down inside my port. I couldnt figure it out so i just took some scrap pieces of carpet i had and glued them on in the corners of the port

Just like Matt said. You have to set the gain on the amp so that its not clipping with the amp set to fullpass then you can adjust the x-over settings on the amp and any other devices after you know its not clipping.

I want that cc-1 not even just for myself but plenty of other people who have no clue how to set the x-over settings on their products. Money is in hand please let us know when you are taking pre-orders. I would even send the money right now