moto211
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Everything posted by moto211
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yea , no problem
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looks good..
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Looks good , but the port section in the back , i dont think you need that ...
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home depot or lowes , get a good one you can have them resharpened
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yes ... it matters , there is a bit difference between a 1/4 round over and a 3/4
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I really wanna put this in my signature...a router is one of the most versatile tools in the shop and does a lot more than cutting holes and making rounded edges. A round over bit will make your round edge, they come in different sizes, chose one based on the amount you want rounded. we all start somewhere ...
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im sure there ok, i just had bad luck with mine -
yea , i only do boxes now , i tired of this car audio crap lol its time for me to move on and do something new ...
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yes , get a 3/4 rounder over bit .. i cover all of this in the video...
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maybe you need a louder subs.... j/k
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wait stop... the rounded edges are not with sandpaper.. with a router, you can use sandpaper it will take you weeks and you fingers will bleed... the stuff on the inside is resin , you can find it at home depot , here a video i did , it will help you ...
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those things are crap, i installed one and the first note it broke what a piece of shit...
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thanks . i have been waiting to build this for a few years
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double baffle is where there is 2 pieces of wood stacked on top where the sub goes , its not a must , but it can help ...
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i say ported ... cant go wrong
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i learned this a long time ago, you need to do what YOU like , dont worry about what people say ...
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i may be wrong but i thought he said the sub killed the box ..
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go for it , this is how people capitalize on things , nothing wrong with a young entrepreneur...
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dont forget your bracing , 30htz might be a little to low ,imo.. maybe 33-35 just a thought one more thing , i have always had good luck with the speakers firing up in a tahoe , with the port firing back , just an idea...
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no not really , just figure out what the volume of bracing you use, im thinking for the size of your box it would be around .125-.250 cubic feet tops , so minus that from the vb , it will only change the port length 1/2"-1" or so and 1 htz should not be too big of a deal ... and you bracing should be front to back, side to side , top to bottom , just make sure it does not flex, you can use 2x4's mdf strips , round rods , any thing to brace it
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Who are the sub box designers here?
moto211 replied to crunkjuice1's topic in Subwoofers / Enclosures
pm me i can help you -
bracing , bracing bracing , ohh and more bracing , the flexing of the box is what breaks them , some 45,s and some side to side , should be fine ... something like this
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no kidding lol , thats next well maybe not, if theres a tv in there i wont get anything done!!! lol
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you can use either one , they both work just fine , i like to use staples its a lot faster. Ihave never had a problem with staples coming apart, but i have have a problem with the wood splitting at the edge with screws .. and yes i predrilled , the only thing i would use screwes on is and wood bigger that 1" imo
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i vote for staples, they have never let me down , the glue is the trick , besides screws take wwwaaayyy to long ... as long as you cut everything right and square , there should be no problem ... im pretty much cover all of this in the video...