Soulman07

The conveyor belt takes a toll on batteries for sureee. All shipping companies use them, it happens. Mainly due to improper packaging. Bslap send me two 80lb batteries not to far back and it took me around 15 minutes just to wedge most of the packaging out of them... Shitty situation never the less, was it insured? For the record a mechanic stripped out my hc1800 and I had to modify it for fine thread 14mm bolts with a tap. It didn't cause the battery itself to crack. The terminal does spin a bit though.

I own one old school hard drive I pulled from a windows 95 PC that stayed on 24/7, the drives around 13 years old now. It had around 2.5 years of uptime on it before it was scrapped. An amazing 9gb 4200RPM 2mb cache beast... It's still kicking with no errors or bad sectors. I've also worked in office spaces with non-server based pc's being used as servers with 5+ years worth of uptime and no visible signs of failure. Just depends, I haven't had any problems with drives failing from seagate/hitachi/quantum. WD drives that I have used in the past seem to be prone to failure though, loud wines, and clicking as well. Operating temperature may be something you want to look at as well when your HD's are on. Mine have all run in the 25-30C range (knock on wood) Some drives will run a lot warmer. Heat and proper ventilation has a lot to do with it. If not then it could make it a bit more prone to failure.

mmm No way to test it with a DMM really. If you can find out the part that's damaged you can order a replacement from part-express.com and solder it on there. Could be a cap or a coil... Pretty simple fix really.

True, very true, My Nlite copies of XP fully optimized for gaming (no networking bs and most of sp2 removed) used roughly 65mb at idle on windows XP. Vista uses more memory because it caches a ton of programs that are frequently used to prevent long start up times. Which is why you'll see it using X amount of memory at idle. It's always working in the background from what I've seen. I haven't switched to windows 7 just yet. An as far as vista goes I haven't ran into many problems once UAC and Defender was disabled. Chance are you'll never max out the 3-4GB of memory that comes standard with vista based PC's anyway. So it using a 1/3rd of it at idle really isn't that big of a deal. I can't think of one problem I've had on ultimate.... Except for limited driver support... But that's a sony issue.

I use ID3 Renamer, it's actually a freeware program that gets the job done, 5TB? I'm at a hair over 1.1.... All in mp3 320kb/s quality. The count is welllll into the 100-150k range too.

Didn't stop to think about that... Even though mine is setup the same as of right now, 4 hours of sleep a night ftl

Yeah, what stephen said. I had issues with a toggle switch a few times.... It's not like you have to worry about killing 10 batteries overnight.. lol but it could drain them pretty good with that number of amps

Then he'll probably need it though... Just to stay sane LOL

I doubt you'll ever use more than 3 gigs of the total memory you have even with most of the newer games. That's with all your messengers, music players, a/v software and all of that good stuff open in the background. Adding ram will increase the amount of programs you can have open or running in the background with the amount of it and no noticeable delay or lag. But unless you are running a server or have milllions of startup programs. 8 gigs is still overkill from my experience, even being on vista ultimate myself. Processing power is a bit different and realistically you can max out a quad/8 core system if needed while doing serveral other things at the same time. So I have no arguments there, the differences between the speed of all the memory isn't very noticable unless you are benchmarking. So It won't matter by much. There's no way to monitor the temperatures of the memory but there are stress testing tools that you can use to make sure it's stable during normal operation. Outside of that I don't really think you have much to worry about. At the cost of 100.00 per 8 gigs of DDR2 memory... You aren't losing anything, Compared to the 800 dollars I spent on memory for my 8 core server a few years ago to only have 16gigs of memory.... You can't really lose either way. Memtest is the name of a commonly used program to stress test your ram. If you can make it 8 hours with no errors or windows not BSOD'ing, you'll be fine. If it still concerns you that much. They make coolers to go over the memory banks now. So you can purchase one for it, there's also some water cooled heatsinks for ram too.

LOL, I jump started my neighbors diesel truck the other day... He kept looking at my battery up front and was like... Why don't you get your truck? I'm like nah this'll hack it. He couldn't believe it actually started his F250 Diesel for some reason. Shit was a trip. I didn't tell him about the other G31's in the back though... hehe. On a serious note... I think it'd take around a week and a half of leaving the trucks amps on all night and day to MAYBE drop the voltage on the battery by .5, realisticly... you have to really try and kill the damn batteries in order for them to go dead. I use to have a switch mounted in my car to turn my accessories on. I can't believe how many nights I went to bed with the damn switch on with 4 amps and the h/u on all night with a single hc1800 it was. An still be able to start the car the next morning, It'll never happen with acid batteries.... ever Probably the best investment anyone could make is to buy an AGM/Gel battery

If not I'm sure a few bungee straps would suffice

Yeah, the 530T is pretty sexy, I had a pair in my car as well. Both failed after about a year of normal operation though. I can get them fairly cheap so it wasn't much to replace them. A+ job on the installation though

It's the same on a lot of cars... Not required though, look at the pontiac forums. Search for disable DRL's, There's a relay that controls the circuit and there's also a sensor... I don't know if it's as simple as removing the relay on that car in particular though. You should be able to find some information on how to go about it. If the cars 06 and down, I can pull all of the wiring diagrams needed. Just let me know, on some cadillacs that I've disabled them on it throws a code for the sensor being bad. So there's some wiring modifications that needed to be done. Don't know if your car would be the same.

Sounds like your alternator may have failed on you actually. Have it tested

Yeah, some amplifiers start acting up at higher voltages. Your car is fine with 16 volts. Most modern cars can handle quite a bit more. Mine throws codes at around 16.5. I'm more concerned about your batteries though. I'd look into replacing the voltage regulator since the alternator may still be charging fine. In the mean time you can go to autozone and have them do a test on it for you, just to make sure it's doing rated amperage and such before doing anything. Either way it's not super costly and the voltage regulator is most likely is the culprit, I'd post up something in mechman or dc's section to confirm before throwing money into a puddle though. They are the true guru's.

I wouldn't drive it if that is the case man, you are literally smoking your batteries if you do that for long periods of time. Some battery chargers that trickle will dip up to 15.9-16.2 on there for 3 hours on acid batteries from my exp. For car audio batteries, or any style of AGM batteries in general... 15.3 is pushing it. I'd get it checked out. See if the vreg is adjustable. if not check for shorted wires on the harness going to the alternator. If not.... You can but replacement voltage regulators for around 10-15 bucks depending on your model. springhillautoelectric should have it in stock for you.

Yeah, try ear wax removal. Mine build up occasionally as well. I hear 100% nothing until I use murine and a pump to shoot pressured water in my ear and get the build up out. Then it's like everything back to normal for around 4-5 months and it happens again. It's cheap and you can get it at walmart walgreens or cvs. It's worth a shot, 6 dollars compared to 1400 isn't much.

Bump, still available @ 200.00 Shipped within the con united states

kind of late notice, have fun though!!! Take pics

bump

bump

As the title says 6 channel amp for sale locally and will ship if necessary, Fresh from JL, I mounted it and used it for around 2.5 weeks. It has a few blemishes from being mounted in between rubber stoppers, but mechanically she's 10/10 9/10 cosmetically. She puts out 200rms at 4 ohms bridged per two channel and around 75 rms x6 at 4ohms and 110rms x6 at 2 ohms @ 14.4. I had it running at 15.3 and this little monster put out some power... Not stable below 4 ohms bridged though. She's DEFINATELY got some power... Made my stock alternator I had previously dim at idle just from it alone. I'll do 200.00 picked up locally from 77015, or 200.00 + actual shipping for online sale. Paypal is the only route I'm willing to take with the sale if sold on forums... Cash for local sales. You can choose your carrier you prefer out of UPS/USPS. I can't warranty it anywhere beyond it working when you receive the item, It comes with a 2 year JL warranty + all accessories and original box. FULL SPECIFICATIONS # 6-channel car amplifier # at 14.4 volts: * 75 watts RMS x 6 at 4 ohms (110 watts RMS x 6 at 2 ohms) * 200 watts RMS x 3 bridged at 4 ohms (150 watts RMS x 3 at 8 ohms) # at 12.5 volts: * 55 watts RMS x 6 at 4 ohms (75 watts RMS x 6 at 2 ohms) * 150 watts RMS x 3 bridged at 4 ohms (110 watts RMS x 3 at 8 ohms) # differential-balanced inputs # Advanced Rollback Protection System # frequency response: 10 to 25,000 Hz # variable high- and low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 12 dB/octave) # switchable bass boost (0, 6 dB at 48 Hz) on channels 5 and 6 only # optional wired remote control converts switchable bass boost to fully variable (0-12 dB) # Absolute Symmetry™ Class-AB amplifier design # MOSFET power and output stages # preamp-level inputs # speaker-level input with optional converter # preamp outputs # 4-gauge power and ground leads and a 60-amp fuse recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier # no onboard fuses — when installing multiple amps in a system, an additional 60-amp in-line fuse between the distribution block and the amplifier is recommended # 9-1/4"W x 2-1/2"H x 18-1/16"D # warranty: 2 years # Want more peace of mind? Thank you for looking.

Oh god, makes me miss the pantera era even more

Check and see if it's the amp staying powered on when you turn the ignition switch off. Check the plugs on the back of the alternator and check for contact with the battery post on the alternator as well. Most likely it's the remote wire on the kicker amp.

# Super Sport AT 4-Channel Class A/B Car Amplifier # RMS Power Rating: * 4 ohms: 150 watts x 4 chan. * 2 ohms: 300 watts x 4 chan. * Bridged, 4 ohms: 600 watts x 2 chan. # Max power output: 1200 watts # Twin coil MOSFET auto step power supply # Bass Remote Details (example 1: Wired remote bass level control included. example 2: Remote bass level input (remote level control sold separately) # LED power and protect indicators # Bass Boost/EQ (0-12 dB bass boost at 45 Hz) # 2/1 channel operation # Speaker-level inputs with signal sensing for automatic turn-on # Preamp RCA outputs # Pro-Fi MOSFET outputs # 4-Way System Protection circuitry (DC, thermal, overload, and speaker short protection) # Soft start turn-on # Heavy duty aluminum alloy heatsink for extreme heat dissipation # Silver-plated RCA level inputs # Silver-plated screw terminals # Variable high-pass filter (60-1,200 Hz, 12 dB/octave) # Variable low-pass filter (30-250 Hz, 24 dB/octave) # Damping Factor: >200 # Frequency response: 30-1200 Hz # Dimensions: 10-1/4"L x 9-7/8"W x 2-1/16"H # 4-gauge power and ground wiring is required for installation. Contact us for information regarding a discount on select amplifier kits when purchased together with this amplifier. # (AT-1200) Specs I was able to pull... I don't think it does rated power output though. With two 4 ohm speakers on each channel it says it's 300 watts a channel at 2 ohm which would be toooooooooooooooooooonns of power IF it does rated output. If your speakers are 8 ohm speakers two to each channel would =4 ohms like stated above. 4 ohm at two per channel would mean 2ohms... Match it up with manufactures spec on your speakers and see what works best for you