J00bles

first and fore most, stick with atleast 2 12s. my two level 4 12s are way louder than either of my level 4 15s ever got (the 15s were both 1 sub set-ups) people like the idea of level 3s because they will get pretty loud. in your situation, you'd be running almost twice the rated rms power to the lvl 3s. nobody likes blown subs though, so i would stick with the level 4s just to be safe. to answer the "poll question" i'd go with the 12s. the 15s would have more cone area, but a well built PORTED box (for the 12s) would be louder IMO.

i ran a pair of level 4s on a brutus 2610

pics of cone!?

nice! maybe they'll get the body work perfect since they'll have it for an extra week. cant wait man

they will be expensive, but not 2,000 dollars expensive. lithium batteries charge as fast as regular batteries, but have an extreme heat sensitivity. i would be VERY nervous running one of those in my ride... i've seen too many 11.1v lipo battery packs go up in smoke..

last i heard, it is possible. i read somewhere that they were finishing up the adapters...

ooooh. i like this. can i check 'em out on Wednesday?

Chewie has been correct with his posts thus far. since toyota uses computers for every component of the vehicle, it could be VERY tough to prevent your eminent death. drive by wire is a big crock anyways, who wants a computer to tell the car "how fast" to go? be prepared for this issue to get worse and worse in the next few years. almost every new car out there (company doesnt matter) has begun their switch to the new computer systems you are also correct. toyota is actually the ONLY car company to make all of their US cars.. in the US

Jacob already posted that the sa line should have no issues with this power, but I'd recommend the z.v2 woofer line for this amp

i'd kill for a couple of 40 degree DAYS out here.. looks pretty good thor! i hope we'll see some numbers before SBN

some cars have a "1 time use" headliner, so read up on yours before digging in. every car out there is different when it comes to headliners, so take the advice on "how easy it is to do it" ... take it with a grain of salt..

why does one of them have the spacer ring on top of the surround, while the other sub has it under the surround?

and to think.... i used to trust blue. *sigh*

you can see the flatwire coil through any of the cooling vents on the basket

my opinion wasnt asked for, but it depends on your power more than anything. each have their own "sweet spot"

^^exactly my thinking 911 with a body kit?

you could always go with a small car and a huge wall

chode said it best. 1. upgrade your alternator FIRST 2. do your "big 3" upgrade 3. Replace the underhood battery with an AGM or GEL battery with a high A/H rating on it(cranking and cold cranking mean nothing to us right now) 4. do atleast 1 run of 1/0 from front to rear 5. add atleast 1 more HUGE (100+A/H) battery in the rear for amplifier support. you DID ask a dumb question. you WILL NOT get "clean" power from your stock alt and stock battery when running 2.5k watts. HAHA. do not listen to everybody who says to do it anyways. theres a difference between doing it and doing it right.

both places will have what you need. fiberglass (mat or cloth), resin, catalyst (hardener), paint brushes, disposable containers, body filler (NOT BONDO!!!), sand paper those are the things you'll need off the top of my head.

you could have bought the easy outz at walgreens and saved the trouble lol

this means videos of frank jr getting loud and getting down..?

http://cgi.ebay.com/GOLD-RING-TERMINALS-1-...=item5d25a52f96 http://cgi.ebay.com/GOLD-RING-TERMINALS-1-...=item5d25410981

is that dual (+) hookups on the rear of that alt?

this is a nice looking simple build! good job

if its due to the former being too tall, you have two options to "get rid" of the noise. 1. remove the dust cap and replace them with "taller" dustcaps 2. recone the subs, and make sure the former isnt too tall for you..