cc_audio

I would definately go to your schools financial aid office and talk to them. If you can't get the job done, they will. I dunno how they do it. I was denied by US bank for a student loan, talked to fin aid, and they called me back that day saying I should get subsidized loan confirmation from US bank. Low and behold I now have money for school. Also, they found me an additional 6 grand in scholarships that I didn't even know about. That was for year 1. This next year I'm getting another 4grand already in scholarships for being on the deans list, and I'm not even smart. Financial Aid FTMFW!

I know fusion has a couple monster amps. I think footlongsam has two of their 4000Ds. Why don't you buy them and let us know?

The RE XXX and the DD are great for daily ground pounding and you can put crazy amounts of (clean) power to them without failing. The LVL 5 is SPL orientated but I'm sure the LVL 5 is just as reliable for daily use. I still would go with the LVL 5. Ask about their new coils, too.

They are crazy subs. But you could do much better for that price.

Well, then tell him to Fuck Off!. A fully loaded BTL runs cheaper than that and will still put it to shame. Get the LVL 5, Rusty makes some amazing subs and it would be much easier to get another in the future. DD is incredible too.

Eh.. I wouldn't call it a GOOD deal but reasonable. All three subs are very comparable in performance. Can you talk him down any? I'm thinking between $375-425 for one in new condition.

Perv! Haha. Your ava fits you! Nice. Not sure where it is though. Never looked for porn on SMD before.

That would be one intense game of beer pong. I'd try that on my roof but my sunroof leaks when I bass it too hard. That means no bass when it rains either. Lame.

Not a really bad problem, just really bad installers. Do you guys have any idea what you are doing?!? Remote wire to the amp should be connected to the remote wire on your head unit OR ignition wire for you car. That way the amp shuts off when your stereo and/or car is off. Running a power wire off the alternator is BAD and will not solve clipping, kick the idiot who said that in the nuts for trying to break your stuff. Run the power wire off the battery to the amp. The power wire is the amps constant power, not the remote. A battery is needed between an amp and the alt. The amp will suck all the alt can give and then go to the battery by taking least resistant path. That can cause your alt to overheat, can create belt slippage, MASSIVE voltage drops and I'm sure there are some more factors that could fuck your alt over. Battery is a cushion, use it like everyone else does! Use google, find an amp wiring diagram and use it. Crutchfield used to have a good how-to video for nubes that I used to have a link for. Its been awhile check there. Start from scratch, cause you guys are the problem. Good luck! Hope you didn't fuck something up.

Does it have a FI dustcap or a XXX dustcap?

Rust free swiss cheese. Haha. Its easy to find where to start patchwork. I see the majority is surface rust. Not that bad really. Find yourself a doner S-10 or 1500 to steal and fab parts from. Make her a daily driver that you can take to shows.

Tell him $1300 and then sell the engines, bringing it down to a grand. Those trucks are getting harder to find. Especially here in the midwest. They usually look rougher than they are. Most of that metal is fairly easy to repair after a good media blast. Believe me. No where near as hard as fixing a rusty quarter on a 92 celica. Japanease metal = gay.

Great buyer. Was really easy to work with and true to his word. Great communication throughout. All around great guy. Will definately do business w/ again. Thanks. -Cody

Here's a simple solution. Buy another dual 1 ohm BTL! Problem solved! Final load=1ohm 2 subs=more bass more bass=happiness No need to thank me.

More lotion. Maybe some power breathing. But seriously, who runs sealed anymore. Port that bitch!!!

Whoa

When something like this happens, its good to freak out at first. Get her worked up and it'll never happen again. BUT, but after a few hours you need to laugh it off because it really wasn't a big deal. No sense keeping her worked up for no real reason. Atleast now you'll have something to hold above her head. The old "do you remember that time you..." moment. Embarasing moments like these are great to look back on and laugh about. You guys are lucky.

Saved! I hope its right! Thanks. -Cody

Thank you sir! Saved to contacts. Do they have an Email address, might help alot for sending him desired specs.

Whats the number?

Rusty, your inbox is full!!

Has to be A!!! I have really bad allergies and cleanexs are way more expensive the TP, so its nice to run to the bathroom with a runny nose and slap the roll to unroll and then slap it again to stop. Perfect length every time, in half a millisecond. If you slap it hard and fast enough it'll shoot straight out away from the wall for an easy grab and perfect rip. The other way sucks cause I gotta reach down to pull it. Who thinks of posting this shit!!!

Bump!!! Don't make me start PMing everyone who can build subs. Someone respond who can help. Please....

Just picked up my new toy today. It's an 18" sub with custom softparts and Ground Zero Plutonium 15" motor with I believe a 4" coil. I think the motor is TC based but not sure. It has some tears and a slight rattle so I want a recone. Please direct me to someone who I can discuss in depth with about what I want to do. I would like to try DC but they don't build subs with 4" coils. Rusty if you can recone it let me know, and that goes for anyone else who can help me. Here's the pics.

Well it would have to be a clipped signal. I swear its impossible to bottom those bitches out. They just keep moving and moving. But hey, I think its like $80-90 for a recone direct from Orion. Thats better than kicker.