fritosaregood

those are when it was in the trunk :-) it peaked out a 154.3 in the trunk, i bet i could get a 55 with a better tuning, but moved on to bigger things

thats why its not absolutely necessary to take them out if you arent sure where they go.

a good rule when you do the big 3 is to leave all existing wires, and just add to it. that way your not messing anything up.

i still consider this a trunk setup..

I wouldnt do it facing forward sealed off. I would do it either subs and port back, or subs forward with the port in the rear of the car facing the drivers side if you plan to compete any, or to the passenger side if you just want to drive it around.

^^^This, minus the Lvl 3s, haha

oh shit.... reminds me of my manufacturing processes and CAM classes, haha

i would just not use the bass knob...

well.. the box is... pretty damn important. on a scale of 1 to 10 is close to 50

[quote name= Gem132' date='21 October 2010 - 11:21 PM' timestamp='1287728473' post='1248802] i currently dont have anything and i have heard 2000 watts on 4 12" type r's do you think i could get a wow that shits too loud reaction maybe even a bail on 3000watts on 2 15's ? what kind of 2000 watts was that? i would say 2 12s or 2 15s on 1500 watts is good for a noob to start with (actually i would say more like 500~800 watts, but you may be past that), its small enough where you dont have to upgrade alot of your electrical, you can get by with just the big 3, throw in and extra batt down the road when you learn more. and a nice alt. and with a small setup you can play around with box designs to see what works best and what doesnt work at all.

noob and 6k setup doesnt mix

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-475

there should be some reasonably priced dayton audio subs on partsexpress

second this right here. i tried, but i had to do cutting and still got better results from 2 12s. my accord liked subs and ports back, and subs forward port to drivers side, just so you know.

No use for that hear, the way ppl meter around here is the kick so when i test, i test in the kick. and ppl on here like dash. No one listens to 70hz farts either, but thats what some ppl play. nothing against you, just my view on other things too. but i do agree and hate when someone post kick numbers, then someone says, you never stick your head in the kick for music. and then say you need to meter on the dash sealed up.

yea i broke the mark in this car and in my buddys truck with 2 12s youll have 3 dual 4 ohms subs. parallel each sub so you have 3 2 ohm subs now, then parallel all of the subs together and you get .66 ohms

well then i would personally just work with the 2 12s. subs up like that with that tiny port wont get too loud. my 12s in a trunk when i had them You might be able to fit 3 12s depending on how wide your trunk is. you could wire it to .66 to the crescendo amp and it would work.

I put 2 sa12s in my friends truck, box is 4 cubes tuned at 37hz. he has a sae1200 he runs on it daily and its never hit mechanical limits(with the subsonic set properly). I have burped his setup on my 2 1500s strapped at 1 ohm and it didnt hit mechanical limits. The only time i got it too was when put a full tilt clipped signal to them from the 1500s. so if you keep your box at the recommended size or lower you should be good.

You know... there is a member build section with all sorts of trunk builds. it would be alot quicker

too busy just starin at them for now, i got no moneys for wood

finding ways to avoid homework, haha

Fuckin show off, haha. i see youre on hear now.

6 12s or 8 10s will have more power handling than 2 18s. and more cone area. a bigger diameter cone has nothing to do with power handling. but with more subs youll have more coils to dissipate heat

He already said ALOT, haha

might try going with 2 smaller subs if you want to put alot of power in your setup, 2 sundown z 12s or 15s would work well. if your stuck on just getting one sub, then you could do a nightshade v2 18, but they wont be back in stock for a bit