Rebel4055

I believe the clipping indicator is on a rail? I believe. So if you voltage drops a little it kicks that light on If I recall. Don't quote me on it though.

How do you know your not clipping? That knob looks like a gain knob.(not sure). Turn that all the way up and then gain the amp.

Don't think that amp comes close to 4000.

How did you gain the amp? What do you mean "open it up"

I emailed them, facebooked them, twice in the beginning of last weekend, I haven't gotten any feedback from them. Look around, you will see a shit ton of posts about how far behind they are. They just got a new guy on to help. Richard has been fighting with his health for awhile. They try the best they can.

Go out out full screen then back in. That is my fix.

That is what I did in the beginning thanks for the comment though.

Zoom in on a song in audacity. Can show you if the bass line is clipping or just a kick.

DAMN LOL! Hell I forgot about this shit. I think I removed them due to copyright issues. Was noobish anyways. Got way better things now.

Going to bump this for drew.

What I meant with the battery cable is the amp is currently wired with it. I was wanting to use the wire in the pictures to do a negative run from the battery to the amp if I had enough. But didn't want to mix those 2 different wires. That strut tower is apart of the frame. Hard to tell in the pictures. It saved me time trying to get a bolt in there.

Thanks for the response Drew. Really appreciated. I fused the alt just for precaution sake. Just a piece of mind thing for me. Now by subframe you mean the body? Also in the first picture it's the front strut tower I used for the frame ground. This is in a 06 dodge dakota truck. I would do a negative run to the amp from the front battery but the wiring is different. The amp wiring is 1/0 battery cable. Instead of thin copper wire it has thick copper wire. I'm afraid of having issues if I did that.

Did the big 3 on my truck. Been reading and seen a video drew made. I would like him to chime in too and who ever has the intelligence to respond. Here is how my setup consists of. Battery to frame ground Alternator casing to battery. Alt positive to battery. Chassis to battery( want to make it shorter)

Open it up and push the tip back out. Very easy.

When you ground the rcas you ground them to the chassis of the headunit.

When you do find a replacement. I would get both left and right. Just because there could be a difference in color.

That's what happens when you get citations on your record lol

You seriously need to learn what your doing. Your going to end up blowing your subs here shortly.

This issue is fixed on this computer now that I see the site has been edited. This issue wasn't present on my main PC though.

Possibly a grounding issue? If there is still static makes me wonder if the amp(s) is picking up something.

Bass boost is good for boosting frequencies that arent loud enough and I know better than to add too much boost. But none of this is relevant to the situation, even with everything maxed and half volume I don't see this amp pushing enough power to fry the coil instantly. I could see it detaching the surround or "spider" or breaking a tinsel lead from over excursion but none of which happened. And I should've reworded my previous post as I didn't know where I needed the boost or notand at what frequency I may have needed it at I'm out of this now.

Quote from C-Fizzy lmao

You thinking you need bass boost tells me right there you haven't been doing this for very long.

I would imagine the sub blew too. He said he checked everything afterwards.