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Found 34 results

  1. I need advice, I have a kinetic hc2400 in my trunk that needs to be charged. Not too long ago I moved, ( because of hurricane Harvey) to an new apartment complex and the only apartment they had was on the third floor and there is no balcony so there no way for me to charge it without showing everyone what's in my trunk . is there something i can do or buy to help me with this problem, a while back I unhooked it and took it a local audio shop the guys were cool enough to charge it for me but I cant keep asking them to charge it.
  2. Been lurking for a while and am lost in the equations and charts so figured I would ask the question. First post starts off with a fun question, electrical and how many batteries would you run. First off system/Components purchased so far for daily use and short demos 2x ZV5 15" D2 (thinking can wire to 1ohm per sub) 2x SCV-4000 SAX-200.4 SD-6.5CS components 1x XS Power D3400 Mechman 250A alt Big 3 0ga kit The D3400 I have is for under the hood of an 08 rabbit and planning on running more batteries in the back. Wanting to install all the stuff but the wife is starting to get the Jar out and eyeing its place on the mantel (married guys will understand the reference) because of the money I have spent so far. SWould 2 more XS D3400 batteries be enough or what would you run if looking to stay under a grand to start for more batteries? (Can always add more later)
  3. Any advice/recommendations are appreciated. Planning out a new system build for my 2001 Ford Escape. The new system will include two soundqubed 18's (HDC3s or HDC4s if I can find them for the right price) in a 12 cube ported box. For amps I'm either going to strap two CAB 1600s or just get a taramps 8K. My question is whether one XS Power d3400 will be enough (along with a d1200) or should I go for the d3100. I have a stock alternator (110 amps) without the big 3 upgrade with 0 gauge welding cable from front to back. Current system has a kicker KX 2400.1 (2600 watts rms) with a XS Power d1200.
  4. Im really curious if you guys were going to build a van with a big setup (160+) for demos, to be musical around town etc. The van has to look good and still be very very driveable. What type of van would you use and why? Also would like to know what your favourite vans are that are currently competing or have in the past? Favourite by looks, favourite by their setup, or favourite because a mixture of both. The more pics the merrier.... Thanks for your time
  5. Okay, so I have been doing some research on running a 14v or possibly a 16v system for my sub stage. I have found a lot of useful information, but I still have a few questions. My plan would be to keep my factory alt and 12v battery for the factory electrical components, and then run two 270a alts externally regulated to charge at 14v or 16v (Undecided). I know if I do this I will need a bank of batteries at decided voltage (14v or 16v). The amp I will be running is the Incriminator IA40.1, which can handle up to 19v. I will be running 6 Sound cubed HDS3 12s, which are rated at 1200rms a piece, Roughly 7200rms total. I have found out my 12v and 14v or 16v system can share a common ground with no issue. So I guess my main question is, will running a higher voltage system cause added strain on the amplifier or alternators. I have read that higher voltage systems can be unpredictable, but from what I picked up this was only if you were to try to run a single system with step downs etc. and not have two isolated systems. Basically what I would like to know, is what are the cons of running a 14v or 16v system over a 12v system. This will be my daily.. (kind of, I have a back up truck) but it is not a competition vehicle.
  6. Has anyone used BatteryShark.com before? They seem to be legit and the prices are phenomenal. Naturally, I wanted to see if anyone has dealt with them before I buy. One more question... What is the difference, if any, between the a standard AGM (such as a D3400) and a UPS high-rate discharge battery (NorthStar NSB-12-400)? Would the UPS be viable? Thanks in advance.
  7. I have a 2007 Ford Fusion with a stock alternator, probably stock battery (could be anything between 120-150 amp), and a Crescendo Logic F-31HP AGM Powercell battery in the trunk. The batteries are connected in parallel via 0 gauge wires (one positive and one negative) under the car. I installed the battery about a year ago and have had zero power/electrical problems since. Within the last week my car has been having a hard time starting and in fact the last time I had to have someone jump me. I have a voltmeter up by the driver's seat that is connected to the back crescendo battery and it read 9.5 volts. When the car is running with the radio off, the voltage stays between 3.7 - 4.0 volts. HOWEVER, when I go to the trunk to maunally check the voltage of that crescendo battery, it reads almost 0.3 volts more. So because of the 0.3 volt drop, when I mentioned before that the battery was 9.5, it was actually 9.8, which is still bad. But, the problem is when I then check the battery in front, it reads 0.17 more than the back battery. When I first installed the back battery, the voltages were always within 0.01 volts of each other. Now the voltage drop is concerning me greatly. So my theory is that when the car is off and I don't drive it for a few days the front battery is trying to charge the back battery up to its voltage, which in affect is discharging the front or maybe even both batteries. But, it is just a theory and I really don't know, that is why I am asking you guys what you think is happening and what I should do. PS, I bought the car used like 3 years ago and have never changed the front battery and I am thinking it has never been changed, so it might be at the end of its life cycle PSS, I know that it is bad when you add a 2nd battery and don't uprade the alternator or add one; so that might be a factor as well.
  8. First off, 1996 Honda accord station wagon. 329 amp hairpin alternator. Big 3 is completed with 0 gauge wire from sky high. 3400 XS battery up front. I am keeping the air conditioning. Could possibly consider cutting a hole in the hood to fit a 2nd alternator *in the future* but not now. What i am trying to learn, is how to figure out how many batteries I need to sustain X voltage. I know about amp hours. I know my alternator came with paperwork saying it is rated at 4,890 watts. What I don't know, is how to figure out how many batteries I need once I go above that 4,890 watts. How do I figure out how many batteries I need for 6k watts? 10k? 16k? 20k? I know I could just throw 30 tractor batteries at it, I don't want a hand out. I want to learn the math behind figuring out how many batteries I will need. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  9. I'm trying to understand the concept of batteries and amp hours and how they relate to draw and keeping power to your amp. I'm looking for some sort of ratio, there has to be one, right? You don't have a 3,000w system and need 20 batteries that are 80ah each. I understand the more power you run... the more alts and batteries you'd need to keep your voltage up. I know that the alternators charge your batteries, the more alternators you have, the quicker you charge your batteries because you're pushing more amps to your batteries. Alright... here's my situation; I'm looking to build a new setup in my truck, I'm gonna get (3) 350a Excessive Amperage alts, I already have 300ft of 1/0 Gauge (for several runs to the back), I'm looking to be running about 25,000w-30,000w total. I'm trying to figure out how many 12v batteries to get and how the amp hour plays into it all. Also... I'm really trying to figure out how much more it would cost to run a 16v setup. If it's like $300 more to get more out of my system... why would I pass that up? I'm currently running 5,000w system (3) 1,500w mono amps for my subs and (2) 4-channel amps that are over 400wRMS each. I'm just trying to figure this out because I'd love to go XS Power or NorthStar or Crescendo Logic or Juice Box or any other brand, but if I can get an off brand in bulk from a local battery warehouse, why would I pay more, I'd rather shop by specs rather than by brand. I'm trying to figure out the ratio of RMS Wattage (let's say a baseline of 10,000w) to alternator amperage to number of batteries and/or amp hours. If you have 2 batteries that are 60 amp hours each, it'd be the same as having 1 batteries that's 120 amp hours, right? These are the questions I'm looking to have answered.
  10. All, I currently have 3 Crescendo F31 Batteries. I plan to add 3 more F31s, the ones I currently have are about a year old. Is it ok to add 3 new ones to the mix? what are the cons? I could also separate them since I will also have 2 370XP DC Power alts that I could separate into 2-3 battery banks each powering a BC5500D. But I want to keep them all together if possible. Help is appreciated!
  11. hello everyone. I recently had a small short out under my hood. The fuse holder in-between my front and rear batteries came in contact with the battery tray. Shorting out. melted the fuse holder into a ball of goo. luckally it put itself out from all the melting rubber from the 0 gauage cable. Now, all i have done is.. cut off the section of burnt cable and replace the fuse holder. But now i have voltage problems. I used to only drop to 13.1v before the misshap. Now i have drops to 11.1v all the time. sometimes even drop to 10.5v whitch shuts my amp down putting it into protection mode. boo. this is what i have. DC power alt 320amp, 2 kinetik hc800 under hood, 2 kinetik hc2400b in the trunk. rockford fosgate 0 gauge cable(one run front to back + side) grounded to the uni-body. Amp is a MA Audio HK4000D pushing two 15" RE Audio XXX. So, My question is... Is my once burnt cable possibly the problem? Or maybe a cell went bad? or both? How and where can i get these batteries tested? Auto zone test is not accurate.
  12. I've read through a bunch of related posts, but I can't seem to find a clear-cut answer. What size of fuse do I need at each end of the 1/0 wire connecting the starter battery to my supplemental battery in the trunk (positive to positive)? More details: - Running ~2000W RMS for audio system, but only 1600W is running off of the supplemental battery; the other 400W is running off of the starter. - Stock starter battery; CRESCENDO LOGIC F-31HP AGM POWERCELL; stock alternator (but planing on getting a 270 alternator from DC) - 2007 Ford Fusion - The run (+ to +) is 20ft long (running underneath car [all proper precautions have been taken to protect the wire]) of NVX XW0BL20 (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_46862_NVX-XW0BL20.html) I am guessing I will need a 150A fuse near each battery for the run... but I don't know for sure..... and I want to know for sure. Even if I'd guess correctly I'd be forever paranoid of the day that my fire catches on fire or something horrible.... SO, what size of fuse do I need????
  13. I have a stock battery up front in the engine compartment and a CRESCENDO LOGIC F-31HP AGM POWERCELL in the back. I will eventually replace the stock alternator with a high output alternator either mechman or dc power but which ever one would be about 250A max; idling around 180-200A. I was planning on running one run of 1/0 from the battery up front to the battery in the back (+ to + and - to -). But after doing some looking and reading around, I feel like I'm on the edge of the 1/0 amperage capacity. Or am I reading the chart or thinking about this all wrong? The length of the run will be somewhere between 12'-20'. I know, it is a big range, but I'm trying to play it safe by overestimating. QUESTION: Am I safe with the one run of 1/0 or should I have another positive to positive 1/0 wire or also a wire from the back battery negative to the chassis also or one 2/0 wire, or what? I want to hear everyone's thoughts and suggestions! Oh, and what size of fuses (2 of them; one close to each battery, right?) should I get for the positive wire?
  14. I am going to get a supplemental battery in the trunk and I will connect it to the main starter battery (positive to positive and negative to negative). I have an amp in the back for my subs and an amp (for my speakers) mounted to the passenger side of the center console by the feet. Do I have to run wire back to the supplemental battery from the amp that is in the front of the car, or can I just keep it connected to the starter battery? I don't THINK it would matter since the batteries are connected with each other, but I 'm not sure. If you need details or pictures just look at my garage, it is the 2007 ford fusion.
  15. Have a small amount of cash and need to get my electrical right. Was wondering if I could get some opinions from all you experienced guys out there. I have 2 amps each wired to 1 ohm at 3000rms (6000total). Running a stock alt at 140amps and have 2 flooded marine batteries(120ah) in back and starter battery up front. Obviously I am way underpowering these amps which in turn is causing heat throughout the system and a little coil smell. Question is where do I go from here? I have about $450 to spend currently and didn't know if I should start replacing the flooded batteries with agms, adding agms with the flooded, or getting an affordable alt. I hear so many different things and I could really use your guidance. This is my first post so be easy. We are all on here for the same reason... we love bass!!!
  16. how many batteries do I need? im running a soundstream ta1 3000d at 1 ohm it does 2500w I have a 240 amp alt from mechman. I have a standard battery up front and I would like to keep it because I just bought it, I also have 1/0 ga wire the only electrical my car has is an electric fan and lights tail lights turn signals ect.
  17. Hey guys, New to the forums as a member, but not new as a reader. I have recently purchased a car that I want to "do right" from the start and wanted some input. I have done a lot of searching, but it seems that I could not find a similar situation already posted. 2006 Dodge Magnum SXT (3.5L) Questions 1) The main battery is already in the trunk of the car (next to the spare tire). This already has what seems to be factory 1/0 gauge wiring running to it from the alternator. So my question is. a) Do I stick with this wire or rewire it with aftermarket wire. If I stick with this wire, should I fuse it before the battery (it currently is not fused). 2) I also want to run 2 more batteries. Should I make a separate run from the alternators to these batteries, or simply hook these batteries up to the main battery and run them like that? 3) Will doing the "big 3" mean as much to me, since the initial run to the main battery (and future additional batteries) be so long (at least for the power wire). 4) Depending on if I keep the current main power wire, or run multiple runs, will either of those affect if the 2 additional batteries (which will be the same) are different from the main battery? I am planning on running around 3000-4000 watts RMS total (including mids and highs) for this car. I have already ordered a 320 amp hairpin Singer alternator. Any knowledge is much appreciated. The thing that is throwing me off from reading most posts is the main battery is already in the back.
  18. Just got all my equipment and now its time to get batteries, I want to usethe XS batteries but have a little bit of a budget issue. Stinger batteries fit the budget but I like the XS stuff. If I have 4 RF T-1500 BDCP's and 2 RF T-1000-4AD's How many of what type of XS Batteries would I use. One more question, is there Wire any good? Thanks for the help everyone
  19. Just getting back into a build again after 20 years out of the big game. I have had everyday stuff 4-10's in a king ranch and 2 15's in an escalade but I just bought a 1995 Chevey SWB truck and I want to built a truck like back in the day. I'm going with 4 T2-D2 12's by rockford and want the best box I can get in the bed of the truck. This is a regular cab truck, want to port through the back wall. Going to run a T-1500dbcp to each sub. Is this too much for these subs or should I go to a different sub combo. I have a budget but still looking for the best I can do. any and all suggestions are wwelcome and I can't wait to buy my stuff next week and get started. I'm building a competition ride, I had an old friend that is still in thegame tell me I did not have it anymore and we have to prove hiim wrong. Here is what I'm thinking of for the system: 4-T1500 dbcp 2-T1000-4 AD 4-T2-D2 12's 2-P3s-8's 2-sets of Focal 6.5 anniversary editons with tweets 1- set of Focal 4" 1-3sixty.3 6-batteries, looking for help here on what kind 1- 270 Amp Altenator. please anyand all help is much apreciated.
  20. Here in Australia we have a company called Fullriver and I've narrowed down two different models. Which one appears to be the most suited to use in a Car Audio application? These are called DC-120B's: http://www.fullriver.com/products/admin/upfile/DC120-12B.pdf These are called HC100's: http://www.fullriver.com/products/admin/upfile/HC100.pdf We can get XS Power here in Australia but they are fairly expensive, but if they are considerably better I could consider spending the extra money.
  21. I found a guy on youtube who replaced his car batteries with a series of six (2.5V) 2600 farad super capacitors. Thats a total of 15,600 farads and the ability to charge up to 15 volts. You guys thinking what I'm thinking?
  22. Sold the car, so I stripped it out. No Trades. Here it is right before I took it all out. Had to try the gopro3 Prices are shipped 4 Skar ZVX D1 15s about a month old and played on a Skar 4500 at 2 ohm (so maybe 2500 RMS to all 4) $350 shipped EACH (will be shipped in original boxes) Specs: http://skaraudio.com/subwoofers/zvx-series/zvx-15 Skar 4500.1 (been repaired by amp medics and works great. Used it for about two weeks on the 4 15s) $650 shipped Specs: SOLD http://skaraudio.com/amplifiers/sk-series/sk-4500 ToolMaker distro $200 shipped for both power and ground. These are brand new. Got them three days ago in the mail. Power has 4 1/0 in and 4 1/0 out and 2 8 gauge out. Ground has 8 1/0 and 2 8 gauge. Relay setup I bought from a member here. $30 shipped SOLD If you are local (DC, Maryland area) and interested in batteries, I have four of these: $50 each I also have another Skar 4500 that is brand new and was delivered Monday (Skar's latest shipment that arrived recently), but won't get pics of it until Wednesday evening. $800 shipped. SOLD here is a vid of the new 4500. Had to unbox it. I'll get pics when I get back home, once again lol. No trades and prices are pretty firm. You want more pics, let me know. The batts are local only. I may have more stuff up later...wiring, etc. EDIT: Sub price change.
  23. so I bought 2 hc2400s a lil bit ago and at rest when I got them one was just over 11 and the other was like 10.6 and I have a yellow top under hood. question is im only running a mtx 1501d at 2 ohms, round 1k watts and im getting voltage drop down to 12s always and its not maintaining well, I just put in a 145amp alternator and that didn't help. driving around voltage doesn't get to 14v and at idle its 13.5 without having system turned up. my amp ive had more than 4 years and has fried a few times and has been sent back and rebuilt and I just don't feel like its up to its potential anymore and just sucking juice, was thinking of getting a saz1200 or 1500 but not if its gonna drop just like what I have going right now. oh and when I was running at 4 ohms it was still doing the same shit. im pushing 2 Fi 18 btln2. ive seen on here plenty of guys running 2500-3500watts with stock alt and one extra battery at 1ohm daily and doing just fine, so why with mine of 2 hc2400s and optima and a 145amp alt at 1k watts am I having a problem?
  24. I'm getting a Crescendo BC5500 and are upgrading my electrical. Here in in Australia WE DO NOT HAVE XS POWER BATTERIES. Thought I'd make that clear I always mention it but people always suggest XS Power to me but we don't have them. My best choices are either these: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290764589407?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1982wt_1163 or Optima Batteries which we do have and which I'm currently using.
  25. I have a dual alt kit for a jeep grand cherokee 4.0l , inbox me for details