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Found 31 results

  1. Hey Guys! I am in need of some help inconnection with my battery connection. So at one point it occurred to me, when I played from my batteries only, one is taking more time to recharge than the other. It seemed to me, that the balance between them is equal(I think I was wrong), so I decided to investigate. I know that battery one takes the more "beat" than it should, because it takes 4-6 hours to recharge opposite to battery two which is only taking 1-2 hours, when placed on a charger. I also put on a test tone to see what is up, and started clamping for some amperage measurements. By this I found out battery one is providing 16X MORE amps than battery two. So here is the deal. I do not know what causes this problem, because I have 0 AWG copper wires, and I have 15 inches of wire between batteries counter to 4 feet between the batteries and the amplifier, so I don't think it is the wires. What I could come up with as a solution is to get a dual 1/0 to 1/0 power and ground input for the amplifier for balance purposes. Do you think it will help? Or is it just a waste of money? If you have any solutions/ideas please share it!! Thank you in advance!
  2. Hey guys, New to the forums as a member, but not new as a reader. I have recently purchased a car that I want to "do right" from the start and wanted some input. I have done a lot of searching, but it seems that I could not find a similar situation already posted. 2006 Dodge Magnum SXT (3.5L) Questions 1) The main battery is already in the trunk of the car (next to the spare tire). This already has what seems to be factory 1/0 gauge wiring running to it from the alternator. So my question is. a) Do I stick with this wire or rewire it with aftermarket wire. If I stick with this wire, should I fuse it before the battery (it currently is not fused). 2) I also want to run 2 more batteries. Should I make a separate run from the alternators to these batteries, or simply hook these batteries up to the main battery and run them like that? 3) Will doing the "big 3" mean as much to me, since the initial run to the main battery (and future additional batteries) be so long (at least for the power wire). 4) Depending on if I keep the current main power wire, or run multiple runs, will either of those affect if the 2 additional batteries (which will be the same) are different from the main battery? I am planning on running around 3000-4000 watts RMS total (including mids and highs) for this car. I have already ordered a 320 amp hairpin Singer alternator. Any knowledge is much appreciated. The thing that is throwing me off from reading most posts is the main battery is already in the back.
  3. Has anyone used BatteryShark.com before? They seem to be legit and the prices are phenomenal. Naturally, I wanted to see if anyone has dealt with them before I buy. One more question... What is the difference, if any, between the a standard AGM (such as a D3400) and a UPS high-rate discharge battery (NorthStar NSB-12-400)? Would the UPS be viable? Thanks in advance.
  4. Just getting back into a build again after 20 years out of the big game. I have had everyday stuff 4-10's in a king ranch and 2 15's in an escalade but I just bought a 1995 Chevey SWB truck and I want to built a truck like back in the day. I'm going with 4 T2-D2 12's by rockford and want the best box I can get in the bed of the truck. This is a regular cab truck, want to port through the back wall. Going to run a T-1500dbcp to each sub. Is this too much for these subs or should I go to a different sub combo. I have a budget but still looking for the best I can do. any and all suggestions are wwelcome and I can't wait to buy my stuff next week and get started. I'm building a competition ride, I had an old friend that is still in thegame tell me I did not have it anymore and we have to prove hiim wrong. Here is what I'm thinking of for the system: 4-T1500 dbcp 2-T1000-4 AD 4-T2-D2 12's 2-P3s-8's 2-sets of Focal 6.5 anniversary editons with tweets 1- set of Focal 4" 1-3sixty.3 6-batteries, looking for help here on what kind 1- 270 Amp Altenator. please anyand all help is much apreciated.
  5. hello everyone. I recently had a small short out under my hood. The fuse holder in-between my front and rear batteries came in contact with the battery tray. Shorting out. melted the fuse holder into a ball of goo. luckally it put itself out from all the melting rubber from the 0 gauage cable. Now, all i have done is.. cut off the section of burnt cable and replace the fuse holder. But now i have voltage problems. I used to only drop to 13.1v before the misshap. Now i have drops to 11.1v all the time. sometimes even drop to 10.5v whitch shuts my amp down putting it into protection mode. boo. this is what i have. DC power alt 320amp, 2 kinetik hc800 under hood, 2 kinetik hc2400b in the trunk. rockford fosgate 0 gauge cable(one run front to back + side) grounded to the uni-body. Amp is a MA Audio HK4000D pushing two 15" RE Audio XXX. So, My question is... Is my once burnt cable possibly the problem? Or maybe a cell went bad? or both? How and where can i get these batteries tested? Auto zone test is not accurate.
  6. I have a stock battery up front in the engine compartment and a CRESCENDO LOGIC F-31HP AGM POWERCELL in the back. I will eventually replace the stock alternator with a high output alternator either mechman or dc power but which ever one would be about 250A max; idling around 180-200A. I was planning on running one run of 1/0 from the battery up front to the battery in the back (+ to + and - to -). But after doing some looking and reading around, I feel like I'm on the edge of the 1/0 amperage capacity. Or am I reading the chart or thinking about this all wrong? The length of the run will be somewhere between 12'-20'. I know, it is a big range, but I'm trying to play it safe by overestimating. QUESTION: Am I safe with the one run of 1/0 or should I have another positive to positive 1/0 wire or also a wire from the back battery negative to the chassis also or one 2/0 wire, or what? I want to hear everyone's thoughts and suggestions! Oh, and what size of fuses (2 of them; one close to each battery, right?) should I get for the positive wire?
  7. Been lurking for a while and am lost in the equations and charts so figured I would ask the question. First post starts off with a fun question, electrical and how many batteries would you run. First off system/Components purchased so far for daily use and short demos 2x ZV5 15" D2 (thinking can wire to 1ohm per sub) 2x SCV-4000 SAX-200.4 SD-6.5CS components 1x XS Power D3400 Mechman 250A alt Big 3 0ga kit The D3400 I have is for under the hood of an 08 rabbit and planning on running more batteries in the back. Wanting to install all the stuff but the wife is starting to get the Jar out and eyeing its place on the mantel (married guys will understand the reference) because of the money I have spent so far. SWould 2 more XS D3400 batteries be enough or what would you run if looking to stay under a grand to start for more batteries? (Can always add more later)
  8. Okay, so I have been doing some research on running a 14v or possibly a 16v system for my sub stage. I have found a lot of useful information, but I still have a few questions. My plan would be to keep my factory alt and 12v battery for the factory electrical components, and then run two 270a alts externally regulated to charge at 14v or 16v (Undecided). I know if I do this I will need a bank of batteries at decided voltage (14v or 16v). The amp I will be running is the Incriminator IA40.1, which can handle up to 19v. I will be running 6 Sound cubed HDS3 12s, which are rated at 1200rms a piece, Roughly 7200rms total. I have found out my 12v and 14v or 16v system can share a common ground with no issue. So I guess my main question is, will running a higher voltage system cause added strain on the amplifier or alternators. I have read that higher voltage systems can be unpredictable, but from what I picked up this was only if you were to try to run a single system with step downs etc. and not have two isolated systems. Basically what I would like to know, is what are the cons of running a 14v or 16v system over a 12v system. This will be my daily.. (kind of, I have a back up truck) but it is not a competition vehicle.
  9. First off, 1996 Honda accord station wagon. 329 amp hairpin alternator. Big 3 is completed with 0 gauge wire from sky high. 3400 XS battery up front. I am keeping the air conditioning. Could possibly consider cutting a hole in the hood to fit a 2nd alternator *in the future* but not now. What i am trying to learn, is how to figure out how many batteries I need to sustain X voltage. I know about amp hours. I know my alternator came with paperwork saying it is rated at 4,890 watts. What I don't know, is how to figure out how many batteries I need once I go above that 4,890 watts. How do I figure out how many batteries I need for 6k watts? 10k? 16k? 20k? I know I could just throw 30 tractor batteries at it, I don't want a hand out. I want to learn the math behind figuring out how many batteries I will need. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  10. I have a dual alt kit for a jeep grand cherokee 4.0l , inbox me for details
  11. I've read through a bunch of related posts, but I can't seem to find a clear-cut answer. What size of fuse do I need at each end of the 1/0 wire connecting the starter battery to my supplemental battery in the trunk (positive to positive)? More details: - Running ~2000W RMS for audio system, but only 1600W is running off of the supplemental battery; the other 400W is running off of the starter. - Stock starter battery; CRESCENDO LOGIC F-31HP AGM POWERCELL; stock alternator (but planing on getting a 270 alternator from DC) - 2007 Ford Fusion - The run (+ to +) is 20ft long (running underneath car [all proper precautions have been taken to protect the wire]) of NVX XW0BL20 (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_46862_NVX-XW0BL20.html) I am guessing I will need a 150A fuse near each battery for the run... but I don't know for sure..... and I want to know for sure. Even if I'd guess correctly I'd be forever paranoid of the day that my fire catches on fire or something horrible.... SO, what size of fuse do I need????
  12. I have a 2007 Ford Fusion with a stock alternator, probably stock battery (could be anything between 120-150 amp), and a Crescendo Logic F-31HP AGM Powercell battery in the trunk. The batteries are connected in parallel via 0 gauge wires (one positive and one negative) under the car. I installed the battery about a year ago and have had zero power/electrical problems since. Within the last week my car has been having a hard time starting and in fact the last time I had to have someone jump me. I have a voltmeter up by the driver's seat that is connected to the back crescendo battery and it read 9.5 volts. When the car is running with the radio off, the voltage stays between 3.7 - 4.0 volts. HOWEVER, when I go to the trunk to maunally check the voltage of that crescendo battery, it reads almost 0.3 volts more. So because of the 0.3 volt drop, when I mentioned before that the battery was 9.5, it was actually 9.8, which is still bad. But, the problem is when I then check the battery in front, it reads 0.17 more than the back battery. When I first installed the back battery, the voltages were always within 0.01 volts of each other. Now the voltage drop is concerning me greatly. So my theory is that when the car is off and I don't drive it for a few days the front battery is trying to charge the back battery up to its voltage, which in affect is discharging the front or maybe even both batteries. But, it is just a theory and I really don't know, that is why I am asking you guys what you think is happening and what I should do. PS, I bought the car used like 3 years ago and have never changed the front battery and I am thinking it has never been changed, so it might be at the end of its life cycle PSS, I know that it is bad when you add a 2nd battery and don't uprade the alternator or add one; so that might be a factor as well.
  13. I'm trying to understand the concept of batteries and amp hours and how they relate to draw and keeping power to your amp. I'm looking for some sort of ratio, there has to be one, right? You don't have a 3,000w system and need 20 batteries that are 80ah each. I understand the more power you run... the more alts and batteries you'd need to keep your voltage up. I know that the alternators charge your batteries, the more alternators you have, the quicker you charge your batteries because you're pushing more amps to your batteries. Alright... here's my situation; I'm looking to build a new setup in my truck, I'm gonna get (3) 350a Excessive Amperage alts, I already have 300ft of 1/0 Gauge (for several runs to the back), I'm looking to be running about 25,000w-30,000w total. I'm trying to figure out how many 12v batteries to get and how the amp hour plays into it all. Also... I'm really trying to figure out how much more it would cost to run a 16v setup. If it's like $300 more to get more out of my system... why would I pass that up? I'm currently running 5,000w system (3) 1,500w mono amps for my subs and (2) 4-channel amps that are over 400wRMS each. I'm just trying to figure this out because I'd love to go XS Power or NorthStar or Crescendo Logic or Juice Box or any other brand, but if I can get an off brand in bulk from a local battery warehouse, why would I pay more, I'd rather shop by specs rather than by brand. I'm trying to figure out the ratio of RMS Wattage (let's say a baseline of 10,000w) to alternator amperage to number of batteries and/or amp hours. If you have 2 batteries that are 60 amp hours each, it'd be the same as having 1 batteries that's 120 amp hours, right? These are the questions I'm looking to have answered.
  14. I am going to get a supplemental battery in the trunk and I will connect it to the main starter battery (positive to positive and negative to negative). I have an amp in the back for my subs and an amp (for my speakers) mounted to the passenger side of the center console by the feet. Do I have to run wire back to the supplemental battery from the amp that is in the front of the car, or can I just keep it connected to the starter battery? I don't THINK it would matter since the batteries are connected with each other, but I 'm not sure. If you need details or pictures just look at my garage, it is the 2007 ford fusion.
  15. Hi i\m matt and im new here, i was curious if i could get away with deep cycle batteries with my system. I just purchased 2 ssa icon 18s. i have a 16cuft box for them and 4 8 inch ports. i will be running them with a colosssus 3200. currently i have all stock electrical. i have to do some kind of upgrade. i have enough 0 gauge to do the big three, and 2 runs of power from the front to back. but as of right now i do not have the money for and alternator, or xs batteries. so that is not an option. i have 3 huge duralast deep cell batteries that were purchased in july for my boat and they havent gotten much use, i was curious to see anyones opinions on how these would work out and if i should hook all of them up or what . i also have a duralast battery under my hood. my system is daily. i couldnt find another forum on here related to this. i just need some answeres i wanna bump just like everyone else does.
  16. how many batteries do I need? im running a soundstream ta1 3000d at 1 ohm it does 2500w I have a 240 amp alt from mechman. I have a standard battery up front and I would like to keep it because I just bought it, I also have 1/0 ga wire the only electrical my car has is an electric fan and lights tail lights turn signals ect.
  17. Hi, I was wondering if I need to upgrade my alternator or if I should upgrade anything at all. I have a 98 Chrysler Concorde with a stock 130 amp alt. I just purchased a T1500-1BDCP and am planning on running it at 4 ohms for now (1100 watts), but will want to switch it to 1 ohm later on. At 4 ohms, it will draw about 1276 watts or 88.6 amps (86.2% efficiency). But at 1 ohm, it will draw about 2857 watts or about it's fuse rating, 200 amps. I have Kicker 0 AWG for power wire but everything else is stock. Also a Rockford 1 farad cap I got along with the Kicker wiring. My question is, would running 200 amps on a 130 amp alt be bad? I listen to my music loud consistently. Thanks for any input, all help is appreciated!
  18. Im really curious if you guys were going to build a van with a big setup (160+) for demos, to be musical around town etc. The van has to look good and still be very very driveable. What type of van would you use and why? Also would like to know what your favourite vans are that are currently competing or have in the past? Favourite by looks, favourite by their setup, or favourite because a mixture of both. The more pics the merrier.... Thanks for your time
  19. So for a long while now I have been tossing around a set up of 2 12's running on 5k. I came across a little something that I can't tell which direction to go in. The DC 3.5k is 700somen, and I am going to make a guess that the 5k is in the 1000 range. That being said, Would it be cheaper to do the 3.5k on a 18v charging system, than buying the 5k on a 14v charging system. I have the possibility of running two alts, and have been throwing that around A LOT lately. I want to try and get another stock honda alt, and get them both rewound for a higher amperage. I was thinking if I could do that, have one alt charging at 18v on at minimum 2 D1600/XP1000 and if I can fit it 3. The other alt would be charging 14v on a D975 up front running the mids/highs and the car. I am going to guess that the alt running the 18v might not run to well and a H.O. will be needed, so that's another reason I can't figure out which way to go. No matter the application of a single alt @ 14v charging, or two alts, one at 18v and another at 14v charging. Both will require a H.O. Alt. That just leaves me to see if the gap between the price of the 3.5k and the 5k allow me to get an External Regulator for the H.O. to run at 18v and a stock rewind for higher amperage. The batteries will be bought from Sonic Electronix, and there is not that serious of a difference in price between a single D3100/XP300, and 2 D1600/XP1000's. Much help will be appreciated if anyone has some good advice, I also love the idea of running two alts and one at 18v, makes it more of a challenge to the project.
  20. Hey guys! So I've been busy shopping some batteries and cables for my setup, so when the car is not running I'd be still capable of powering my setup fine. I bought some KnuKonceptz OFC 1/0 gauge wire, and ended up with two AGM batteries that I purchased used, but still in fine condition. (one 95 AH , and one 105AH) In order to get the max out of them I strapped the two together in hopes to get the sweet 200AH I was looking for based on this online calculator: https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/calculator-sizing-a-battery-to-a-load.html When I set everything up, and tuned the amp, there came the big moment, to clamp test everything. I was suprised, but I only got around 800 RMS, on test tone. As far as amps go I got myself a Hifonics Brutus BRX 2016.1D, and a pair of Rockford Fosgate P3 D4 subs. The reason why I wrote down everything this meticulously, is because I wold like to know what could went wrong with my little test. According to my calculations I shold easily get 1000 RMS, with this particular choice of equipment. The batteries are capable of producing this kind of power, the wiring is overkill for 1k I think, the amp is rated at 2kw and even if half is true it is still 1kw, the subs are CEA-2031 rated and knowing Fosgate they are up to the task, I got the 200A fuse as recomended by the manual of the sub, so I don't know what could cause this power drop. What do you guys think can be the cause of the problem? Any thoughts wold be useful! ??
  21. Have a small amount of cash and need to get my electrical right. Was wondering if I could get some opinions from all you experienced guys out there. I have 2 amps each wired to 1 ohm at 3000rms (6000total). Running a stock alt at 140amps and have 2 flooded marine batteries(120ah) in back and starter battery up front. Obviously I am way underpowering these amps which in turn is causing heat throughout the system and a little coil smell. Question is where do I go from here? I have about $450 to spend currently and didn't know if I should start replacing the flooded batteries with agms, adding agms with the flooded, or getting an affordable alt. I hear so many different things and I could really use your guidance. This is my first post so be easy. We are all on here for the same reason... we love bass!!!
  22. so I bought 2 hc2400s a lil bit ago and at rest when I got them one was just over 11 and the other was like 10.6 and I have a yellow top under hood. question is im only running a mtx 1501d at 2 ohms, round 1k watts and im getting voltage drop down to 12s always and its not maintaining well, I just put in a 145amp alternator and that didn't help. driving around voltage doesn't get to 14v and at idle its 13.5 without having system turned up. my amp ive had more than 4 years and has fried a few times and has been sent back and rebuilt and I just don't feel like its up to its potential anymore and just sucking juice, was thinking of getting a saz1200 or 1500 but not if its gonna drop just like what I have going right now. oh and when I was running at 4 ohms it was still doing the same shit. im pushing 2 Fi 18 btln2. ive seen on here plenty of guys running 2500-3500watts with stock alt and one extra battery at 1ohm daily and doing just fine, so why with mine of 2 hc2400s and optima and a 145amp alt at 1k watts am I having a problem?
  23. I found a guy on youtube who replaced his car batteries with a series of six (2.5V) 2600 farad super capacitors. Thats a total of 15,600 farads and the ability to charge up to 15 volts. You guys thinking what I'm thinking?
  24. Hey yall, So I've got a 270 amp DC Power alternator, Toyota true 2 battery, big three 0 gauge, and i'm currently running a kicker zx2500.1, an alpine pdx 400.1 off of that. I might be adding a Rockford Fosgate prime 1000.1d at some point in the future. *My question is how many batteries and what type of batteries should i be running in my car based on the power of my alternator and my power needs for my amps? --What battery should I use under my hood? Do I need to replace the stock True 2? --What batteries should I put in the trunk? My car is a 1998 4Runner 3.4L V6 5VZ-FE *Oh and I'm not trying to win any competitions, this is just my daily driver so I'm trying to keep the cost of batteries below $500 or so
  25. Any advice/recommendations are appreciated. Planning out a new system build for my 2001 Ford Escape. The new system will include two soundqubed 18's (HDC3s or HDC4s if I can find them for the right price) in a 12 cube ported box. For amps I'm either going to strap two CAB 1600s or just get a taramps 8K. My question is whether one XS Power d3400 will be enough (along with a d1200) or should I go for the d3100. I have a stock alternator (110 amps) without the big 3 upgrade with 0 gauge welding cable from front to back. Current system has a kicker KX 2400.1 (2600 watts rms) with a XS Power d1200.
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