skittlesRgood

did you have to drill out that ring terminal to fit on that stud? i ask because there is always a lip left over that i file back down flat. i could see a bad connection happening if someone didnt knock that down. that side of the fuse block looks really close to that metal thing above it. are you sure it couldnt be bouncing up into it? the fuse block looks to be on sheet metal. is there any chance the bottom of that stud could be reaching the sheet metal? maybe only arcing through the paint under a higher load. just a guess on that one. is there a lock washer on that side of the fuse block? the lock washer keeps the nut on tight. without it, the nut could slowly back out and give you the bad connection. also, try smashing the terminal in the vice before soldering. thats what i do. might help, might not. hope something in there helps.

two 12" xls two 1500s = 150.4 two 3000s = 151.7 until the new formers then it dropped to 150.5 legal

X2, cars dont come with a fused alt to batt either Yea they do? And I solder my connections and the fuse holder is the kind with the bolts you slip the ring terminals over then put a fuse. do you solder with a torch? do you crimp at all first? where on the wire is it melting? you need to answer all the questions, not just one. and again, pics of the fuse holder, terminals, and engine bay where the wire is ran will help a lot in solving this.

it does not get twice as hot but it can get hotter. but that doesnt matter. something has to be wrong to make this wire melt. if aluminum just melted and that was normal, NO ONE would use it. and i have a bunch of CCA in my car powering a 12k. the wire is not the problem. its a connection or its shorting out against something.

use the CA glue for the surround. make your own shims. dont glue the dust cap on before taking the shims out lol.

it only takes once to burn your car down. what type of connections does the fuse holder have? where in the wire is it melting? how do you crimp the terminals? do you use solder? if so, do you use a torch? pics pics pics

DUDE!!!! NNNOOOOOOOOO. dont just turn the gain all the way up. its not a volume knob!! go learn how to set your gains and do it faster than it took you to ground the RCAs. not trying to be a dick but it is VERY important.

no thats not even close to what clipping is. this problem just started one day correct? it was fine then this happened? were you messing with the RCAs before it started? like plugging/unplugging them while the HU was on? ive never had the pioneer pico fuse blow and i've used nothing but pioneers since my second HU. so i dont know what it sounds like when it happens. i was told its a pretty loud hum/alt whine noise. so it sound like what you are describing. even if this isnt the problem, it wont hurt anything. so just go do it and then report back to us.

how many people have to say the same thing??? yes, its most likely the HU. go ground the rcas, GO. now. move it!

you could simply get a lowpass crossover that goes to 4000hz. then use the highpass crossover on the amp set to 80hz. that will give you what you want. the 360.2 has a ton of features. but if you dont know how to EQ it could be a pain in the ass. plus the bluetooth dies on a lot of the units and they have to be sent in for repair. lastly, you said you didnt want to spend much

why do you do this? because of a fuse inside the amp. it'll pop if you short your RCAs or hot swap RCAs. grounding the RCAs to the chassis bypasses that fuse and makes a good ground. how loud is this hum? you said "master and slave" but then said each amp is wired to 1ohm. if you are not strapping the amps then you dont use master and slave. they are both master.

are the little resistors next to the fets burnt or are they still good? pm me about that and i'll make you an offer. i can pay today if we work something out.

the reviews say they are loud. as for security, put them inside the car.

those speaker wires look so tiny after all that 1/0.

when we moved into my house it was brand new. so being on new land the local mice moved in. i hate seeing them in those kill traps so i went and got a little live trap. worked great, caught tons of them. just drove down the road and let them out. between that trap and the cat, they know not to use my house as theirs.

why? cause they didnt tell you it would be a long wait? because of a shortage that had nothing to do with them? would it be nice? sure. but asking for free stuff over something that im sure lost DC a lot of money... come on.

if you think you can fit 4 alts and a supercharger, go for it. stopping belt slip is going to be a challenge though.

Really? Why is that? I'd say should have, especially for inexperienced people. (IE: ANYONE THAT HAS TO ASK ANY QUESTIONS) lol ok, you dont NEED any of them but if your going to do one fuse you need the other or the 1st is useless. if one end of the wire grounds out the front battery shorts. the other end of the fuse grounds and the back bank shorts. Really? Why is that? I'd say should have, especially for inexperienced people. (IE: ANYONE THAT HAS TO ASK ANY QUESTIONS) Because the rear batteries may try to transfer power to the front and they will collide or something like that, I read about it I can't remember exactky what they said but it's good to have two fuse for the protection. lmao its a fuse not a one way valve.

coulnt say a number, but with the alts and all the weight of the system... MPG will suck lol. you just cant worry about that if your doing a system like this.

the alt negative is the same as the engine ground. arent all of these wires 1/0?? i didnt notice but you need two fuses between the front battery and back bank. one close to each end. i completely disagree. remember you need negative runs from alt to battery. i like to use an alt mount as a grounding spot. Why do you disagree? That is more than enough ground. I know that you need the alt to battery grounds but I was just talking about front to back. why does it make any sense to have 4 positive runs and two negative runs? even if you do two more to the frame, why settle for the much more resistive steel to carry current to your batteries/amps? Because negative doesn't carry any current. You are just providing a ground. Why would it matter where it is coming from. its funny how often people argue with me that dont know what they are talking about. 1st off, DC flows from - to +. second, this is called a circuit. current goes through all the wires. do you think it just disappears?? and if you dont believe me you can go get a clamp meter and measure the + and - wires and see the amperage on each is about the same. I'm not trying to argue at all man. Amperage may be the same but there is no voltage so the current is not there. I always believe in having good grounds, and I believe what I suggested would be perfectly fine. what? first it doesnt have current then it doesnt have voltage? just go look it up instead of guessing.

the alt negative is the same as the engine ground. arent all of these wires 1/0?? i didnt notice but you need two fuses between the front battery and back bank. one close to each end. i completely disagree. remember you need negative runs from alt to battery. i like to use an alt mount as a grounding spot. Why do you disagree? That is more than enough ground. I know that you need the alt to battery grounds but I was just talking about front to back. why does it make any sense to have 4 positive runs and two negative runs? even if you do two more to the frame, why settle for the much more resistive steel to carry current to your batteries/amps? Because negative doesn't carry any current. You are just providing a ground. Why would it matter where it is coming from. its funny how often people argue with me that dont know what they are talking about. 1st off, DC flows from - to +. second, this is called a circuit. current goes through all the wires. do you think it just disappears?? and if you dont believe me you can go get a clamp meter and measure the + and - wires and see the amperage on each is about the same.

i completely disagree. remember you need negative runs from alt to battery. i like to use an alt mount as a grounding spot. Why do you disagree? That is more than enough ground. I know that you need the alt to battery grounds but I was just talking about front to back. why does it make any sense to have 4 positive runs and two negative runs? even if you do two more to the frame, why settle for the much more resistive steel to carry current to your batteries/amps?

i completely disagree. remember you need negative runs from alt to battery. i like to use an alt mount as a grounding spot. space out the wires along the bus bar. dont just stack them all into one spot.

are those mismatched subs?

lol its just a joke. austin power's mojo.