skittlesRgood

a transient doesnt require tons of excursion... its mostly about cone control. in fact i would imagine a metal cone to do well with transients. but look, we get it. you broke some metal cones and now you dont like them. but that is your opinion. it doesnt make it fact. you cant knock all subs that use the same material. thats like me saying copper coils are garbage because i fried some.

i like to let the suspension loosen up before going full power but you dont NEED to do it.

like i said, it all depends on the type of sound you like. metal cones are more accurate but that usually means they are more harsh as well. if you are actually an SQ person then you will have the means to EQ and take that harshness down to eliminate ear fatigue. but some people like the bright sound. they are not meant to be beaten all to hell like an SPL woofer. so if you do that, its your fault you folded the cone, not the speaker's. its just the nature of metal, it doesnt flex so much until it becomes a bend and it doesnt go back to its original shape. the paper actually flexes more, but it wont bend and it does go back to its original shape. its not an engineering thing, thats just how those two materials react.

x2. and it doesnt even have to be that fancy. i just found a 1/4" piece of wood in the scrap pile that was about as wide as the router base and long enough for my circle. measure from the bit and make a little hole to put a nail through. simple.

interesting read. obviously there is a lot of untapped potential in the world. just waiting for some one to be able to understand these things.

this is a neat new tool but its has NOT made the oscope obsolete by any means. i did an experiment a little while back you can try. tune your mids with a 1000hz tone until its just under clipping. now, at the same volume, play a 100-200hz tone. try it and see if you dont get clipping. i had a video of this but for some reason it got corrupted on photobucket but i could make one again. now if this thing had 40hz, 100hz, 500hz, and 5000hz. then it would replace my need for an oscope. and that would be nice, because my scope is large and needs to be plugged in. maybe the next version can have those? If you have your bass, treb, eqs, ect turned to zero like the instructions for the DD-1 indicate, then you don't need to test all of these frequencies. We did 40Hz and 1kHz so that we could do full range amplifier and subwoofer only amplifiers. in my test it was all flat. used a tone generator. i mentioned those frequencies so you can tune a 4way system. just my suggestion for what would make me interested in the product. i understand i am an odd market though and it may not be beneficial to appeal to that. maybe theres something i dont understand with what i did. thats always possible. i can make that video again and show it to you and you can tell me if i understand it correctly or not. i would just PM it to you. if you dont mind I see what you are saying, but just like Steve said; turn your crossovers off, set gain, put crossovers back. Crossovers don't add gain (unless someone really f'd up lol). i understand that for the higher frequencies but i would still like to show you what im talking about with the lower frequencies. maybe next time im at ray's shop he will let me test it on a dd1 and see if what i saw on the scope applies to the dd1. it would be interesting. hell, im going to be headed through sac on the 27th. i'd even be willing to drop by steve's and test it real quick but im sure he will be working at the time i would be driving through. that is if the GF doesnt mind sitting around while we play with electronics lol.

again, european prices are way different. that sub sells here for 500-600 and thats after its been shipped from overseas. but have you heard this sub before? have you used one?

this is a neat new tool but its has NOT made the oscope obsolete by any means. i did an experiment a little while back you can try. tune your mids with a 1000hz tone until its just under clipping. now, at the same volume, play a 100-200hz tone. try it and see if you dont get clipping. i had a video of this but for some reason it got corrupted on photobucket but i could make one again. now if this thing had 40hz, 100hz, 500hz, and 5000hz. then it would replace my need for an oscope. and that would be nice, because my scope is large and needs to be plugged in. maybe the next version can have those? If you have your bass, treb, eqs, ect turned to zero like the instructions for the DD-1 indicate, then you don't need to test all of these frequencies. We did 40Hz and 1kHz so that we could do full range amplifier and subwoofer only amplifiers. in my test it was all flat. used a tone generator. i mentioned those frequencies so you can tune a 4way system. just my suggestion for what would make me interested in the product. i understand i am an odd market though and it may not be beneficial to appeal to that. maybe theres something i dont understand with what i did. thats always possible. i can make that video again and show it to you and you can tell me if i understand it correctly or not. i would just PM it to you. if you dont mind

ya... i think most of these guys dont know how the kinetiks work. that they have a 12v and 16v terminal. he was talking about charging them off the 12v terminal. kinetik says you can not charge with the 12v side, you can only take out from it. but like i said, a team mate charged off the 12v and used it like a 12v and it worked. but it was only for one show because he was desperate. changed it rite after the show. but it drove 4 hours and competed fine. so it does work but i wouldnt be surprised if it killed the batteries over time.

this is a neat new tool but its has NOT made the oscope obsolete by any means. i did an experiment a little while back you can try. tune your mids with a 1000hz tone until its just under clipping. now, at the same volume, play a 100-200hz tone. try it and see if you dont get clipping. i had a video of this but for some reason it got corrupted on photobucket but i could make one again. now if this thing had 40hz, 100hz, 500hz, and 5000hz. then it would replace my need for an oscope. and that would be nice, because my scope is large and needs to be plugged in. maybe the next version can have those?

and since when does abusing the piss out of a sub have anything to do with SQ?

ive seen it done. it can work. but it wasnt a daily thing. they just did it for one show.

that depends on if its a gain knob or a bass boost. if its gain, yes, its limited my the amp. boost, im not 100% sure but i believe it bypasses the bass boost on the amp.

he's asking something much more basic than this.

Hmmm...where to start. "well you know how you set the wattage from your amp" What do you mean by the above statement? Maybe it will be easier to tell us what type of equipment you have and what you are accomplish. Sorry i mean the gain, when you set it to 500w. Then turn the head unit up to lets say 40/50, as you gradually turn up your head unit the bass on the sub goes up as well. So that means more wattage is being pushed to it. When you set the gain on the amp, is that the SET limit for the sub, no matter how high you set your volume on the headunit, that at all times the amp won't let more than 500w go to the sub? Im not trying to accomplish anything with what i have now, other than to learn this, so in the future i know more, and don't blow anything hehe. turning the volume down means less power goes to the sub.

correct. now if you turn it past 35 (in this example) you will get more power. HOWEVER, you will also get clipping if you have tuned the amp for 500w from a 500w amp. so you get more power but it'll be a square wave. the speaker moves less and builds up a lot more heat.

do you know what your talking about? DLS = high end sq worth the money Aluminum cone, SQ? Unfortunately most aluminum cones are not engineered well enough to be used for SQ, let alone for over $1000. The rest of the parts there total maybe $250. european prices are WAY different than here. aluminum cones sure as hell can be used for SQ. it all depends on the type of sound you want. how is a paper cone any more "engineered" than a metal one?

no, come on now. you were trying to take advantage of some one in need. he said he was desperate so you throw out a huge lowball hoping he had no other choice but to take it. i dont know whats going on with this thread but what you did has nothing to do with him or his personality. you were being the ass hole in that situation.

click the manual above where it says that. come on its not hard. just do a little looking.

will you pick an amp based off its "max" rating too?

lol click on the manual link on the left. tells you what boxes to put them in.

go to kinetik's website where they have a program for that or go to xspower where each battery says how much power its good for. couldnt be easier. just look.

you wont gain spl

when i was just learning i did a search "best and worst car audio brands" and got this. it should help you avoid getting pure shit. http://slumz.boxden.com/f22/worst-best-car-audio-brands-419293/