skittlesRgood

ya... i cant piece together a set for $100. it would need to be $20 mids, $15 tweeters, and a $30 crossover. i couldn't in my right mind recommend any of the speakers in that price range. closest i could find: mid tweeter another tweeter then get a simple 2way crossover, active. but then this set will need 4 channels. then you run the back speakers off the HU like mentioned above. they wont mater much.

Im looking to spend no more than 100 on each set of speakers, and a few hundred on the amp... im not trying to be a dick here but if you are going for sound quality, as you said, $100 wont get you dick. image dynamics CTX are around $170 and sound great. they are the cheapest set i have personally heard that sound good enough to make me want to buy them. but, ill look around and see what i can piece together

what is your budget? because a "budget" system for you may not be the same for me. give me a max price and ill piece something together for you.

x2. i was going to say "batcaps are bad ass!". but not this. its 1 farad per 1000w if I remember correctly. caps work completely differently than a battery. its not like a cell from a battery.

what model deka's are they? check voltage drop before and after every fuse block and connection. see if you can find the weak point. what size wire and fuse do you have running front to back? are the back batteries grounded to the chassis or at the front battery?

its not a quad. there are just extra terminals for the same connection to make it easier to wire up. instead of trying to fit two 8awg wires into one hole.

get an amp that will do 100w per channel and you should be good for most comp sets. the alpine PDX amps are really nice if you have the money. they do the same power at 2ohm and 4ohm so you can be more flexible with speaker options. plus they sound great.

best?.... *sigh*... yes,the best I have owned I have only been in the hobby about a month , thanks anyways they are better then the pioneers i had ... and wth is so bad about them ... i thought polks where good ... never read a bad reveiw .... and when i got them i didnt know about the cresendos ... so ? lol i never said they were BAD but FAR from best. i would say the same thing about the crescendo's.

best?.... *sigh*...

happy birthday. does she know what number baby she is of the year she was born? just curious because they always show the 1st baby of the new year on the news. not sure if they keep count for the whole day lol.

i think the worst part of audio is the people bashing a company for user errors.

I know they're very different, i'm trying to decide if i want to use this battery to run when the car is off, that is, an isolated battery, or if i might just go ahead and use it for more power. and the autozone battery is the recommended replacement, i will use a Y adapter to attach it to the vent hose along with the stock battery. Do not do this. Get a fully sealed battery so there is no chance of it spilling or leaking. no, it should be fine with that hose. just make sure the extra battery cant fall over. itll be the same thing as you are doing now and that is perfectly safe. obviously an AGM battery will do a lot more good but that vent will work just fine.

haha. your already a year ahead of us? have fun everyone.

is that who your talking about? then im definitely checking the "who gives a shit" box.

bus bars OR an isolator? those are 2 very different things you know. the stock alt will be fine with 2 batteries. i recommend keeping the system down for the last couple min of your drive so the alt has a chance to charge the batts a little before you shut the car off. are you trying to put that autozone battery in the car/trunk? because if its not sealed it'll vent poisonous, corrosive gas into the car.

The only setup that would even last one the Warhorse would be the BTL N2s. An SSD definitely won't handle 4x its power lol. A BL or Q, don't even think about it (unless you REALLY know what you're doing) x2. really only one option... unless you want to wire to 4ohm.

the easiest way i see for you to get bass is to replace the back speakers with 5x7 or 6.5" subs. these are the cheapest i found that go below 50hz. http://www.woofersetc.com/p4848/M6--CDT-Audio-65"-300-Watt-MidBass-SubBass-Drivers.htm

dont get a 4" coil, the added weight often offsets the extra power handling. add the price of the bigger amps and electrical upgrades you will need with the btl compared to the SSD.

you already said that twice... why are you super post dumping? you have a post about every min and over 100 posts today.

that was my first choice but i just tossed my old power supply.

lol i didnt want to admit it but i just put a piece of paper in front of them to cut down on the harshness of the tweeters. lol really pathetic but it worked. well... at least it made them listenable. these speakers are at least 7 years old and cost about $50 so i didnt have high hopes. plus i use them whenever i make a test bench. ive had sub amps hammering on these little guys. i should be happy they work at all lol

honestly, no lol. these old pioneer's sound like shit. but i think i have the stock speakers from my car laying around. they shouldnt sound so harsh.

now that i think about it... ive got a couple 10"s sitting around too. i think I'll fix another amp i have laying around and get those under my bed

today i was bored and decided to put together a "system" for my room. just grabbed an old 2x50w amp, speakers, battery and a charger. all i had just collecting dust. hooked up an RCA to 3.5mm jack to hook up to my computer... its working just fine lol. a hell of a lot louder then my laptop's speaker. I think I'm going to make a couple boxes for these this weekend. the office is closed for the holidays... I'm bored lol

ill get on if 3 others want to do zombies