skittlesRgood

if one wire shorts out and it runs to a 1200amp fuse, the wire will burn up way before those fuses pop. you wire burns at 350-400amps? so the fuses wont do any good here.

i vote, ditch the bus bar fuse. just run unfused wire between the batteries in the back and dont get them mixed up.

well think about it, if you just put them on the amp they will get a full range. you dont want them trying to play 6,000hz-20,000hz do you? you can get a 3way crossover for less than $150. lanzar makes one that will do what you need. define better. louder? i can tell you it wont be better SQ, better sound stage, or better imaging.

tweeters are small for a reason. if you make them too big they cant react fast enough for the high frequencies they are supposed to play. so bigger is not better here.

i like it but it would be cooler if the DC was just a flat piece, then as the pieces fall away the real DC logo shows up. hey rusty, can i join team DC?

they found the right answer, the ohm load was too low. it was going to be my guess as well.

hmmm, he might be on to something here. maybe the EQ isnt cutting voltage like a volume knob. maybe its cutting frequency. maybe its a cheap EQ and its just doing something funny?

its all up to you and what you want man. you only have a pair of type r's to keep up with so i would say your going way overkill. to me, when i want loud i only care about the subs. when i want loud SQ i turn the subs down to a balanced level. but then again the MECA guys have brainwashed me to think like that now. remember with all these speakers, they all need crossovers. going active would be the easier and probably cheapest way. not to mention it's the best way to go lol. your mids will need to be bandpassed, your midbass will need to be bandpassed as well but that can be done with a lowpass crossover and setting the HPF on the hu, or the amp. then the high pass for tweeters. im curious, how much do you think your idea will cost you? speakers, crossovers, and amps? what kind of stuff are you looking at?

i think it might be the caps blowing...

too many speakers make a confusing sound stage. one good 3way set will do about anything you need.

http://www.woofersetc.com/p6201/CTX65CS--Image-Dynamics-65"-Component-Speaker-System.htm none of the above speakers have the midbass this set does. not for under $200

wow... you are way too excited about that lol

lol well it shouldnt. put that fucker to 80hz. see if that helps

are these speakers in your front doors or in the rear deck?

fritosaregood is the man to talk to about kerfs.

i liked that i got paid to sit in my car and watch movies when that was possible but the jobs at the hospital was just standing at the door all day with nothing to do. cant have any electronics, book, anything. so its boring as all fucking hell. if you get into a parking lot, in your own car. there literally is no easier job lol.

go with dispatch, itll pay much better and security blows. i have done it.

so this is JUST your daily driver and they get A LOT of use so you want to put cheap shit in instead of the good shit?... i dont get it you said you wanted to stay under $300 im pretty sure those mids come in a comp set that is under $300 so its really not any more expensive. nut if you wanted cheap you should have just said so.

if its rattles that are bugging you, and money is tight, just get a roll of foam tape (weather stripping) and put it on the rattling piece. works wonders and it only costs a few bucks.

so you just need mids? you dont have to buy the whole set. these mids kick ass. http://www.woofersetc.com/p7176/CX64-V2--Image-Dynamics-65"-4-ohm-Midbass-Drivers.htm

oh, i didnt mean that would help your problem. its an SQ issue and something that could save your speakers. they are not made to play 60hz at the same power to give you loud mids. it would be easy to bottom them out and/or distort them.

how do you rise lower? thats your answer rite there. 60hz is very low for door speakers, put it up to 80hz. to find the problem you have to kind of do a round robin. switch the hu and see if the problem persists. put the stock speakers back in, see if the problem persists.

i have to unbolt the motor mounts, pull the engine forward, take out the complete windshield wiper system (and its really hard cause all the damn 1/0 wire in the way lol), then lay over the engine and feel around for the bolts. one of which is so close to the firewall that you cant fit a socket wrench onto it. lol so i know what you mean about not wanting to take it off again. but the MLA and VCM are the only ones that i know of. i did see a guy that made his own a while back but he wouldnt say how he did it. maybe there is a diagram somewhere.

depends on the person too. i can breathe just fine in my car but my friends say they have a hard time breathing. i was just in a truck that does something like 155db, made my nostrils flap open and shut lol but i could still breathe fine. to the average person... they probably start to feel it around 148db

so... your new to competing but you want to start your own organization and ask wayne for advice? wayne, who may only see you as future competition... good luck!