skittlesRgood

i would also like to add that the car changes tuning quite a bit some times. i thought i was tuned to 42hz (by any calculator it is) but its closer to 35hz once in the car

you'd loose that foot if it wasnt bolted on... oh shit!

ive got the worlds smallest harp playing you a tune. hope someone gets that.

dont worry about "unloading" you cant load against a port wall if its a round port anyways. its just someone over thinking something that isnt very important in your setup. huh... i didnt see anyone laugh at you when you were worried about your alt doing something perfectly normal. how about showing the same respect?

dont use that phone cord knob. get the RCA one. darvex.com sells one.

check it at the amp. if you dont get 12v then check it at the hu. if you do get 12v at the hu then you have a brake in the line somewhere. if not, time for a new deck.

psp-inc.com says your right.

you think so? i thinks its fucking bad ass to get a pair of 12"s louder than a pair of 15"s or 18"s. when someone hears your system and they say "damn what you got back there" and you say 18"s, well that makes sense. if you say "just a pair of 12"s" that will get you the wow factor lol. holy shit, i just realized im the ricer of car audio. everyone else is getting 18"s (v8) and im tuning up 12"s (4 cylinder) FML

i wasnt talking about resting voltage. if you beat on the system for a couple min then its draining your batteries. turn the system off and it still needs to charge. so the batteries are creating a load on the alt, bringing down its voltage while it tries to charge the batteries. its one possibility for the 13.5v reading.

mechman will sell you an alt and XS batteries.

x2, in case you needed more confirmation.

wrong, they are both needed. an alt doesnt react nearly as fast as a battery. but the answer is, a battery does help with headlights dimming but it does more than that. your making sure your electrical system can function with the added current draw.

yep, still fairly normal. could be a cheap regulator or maybe its at 13.5v because the batteries are drained.

i agree

no? ok here, get these http://www.woofersetc.com/p3569/Graphic-Pro-TT1--Brax-65"-HighEnd-MidBass.htm its not the brand its the model. i had morel tempo6's and the midbass sucked. but then they have higher end stuff that rocks. so how much you want to spend is very important.

image dynamics has great midbass in even the cheapest comp set. i havnt heard better in the price range but you didnt say how much you want to spend.

fuck that, if you can afford it go with Brax. (had to 1up you )

sigh... you cant say one of those is "the best". some of those have good low priced speakers and some have worse low price speakers. some have crazy good/expensive and others dont. then there is the personal preference factor. maybe you like titanium tweeters and i cant stand them. i can tell you i like image dynamics the most of those sets. rainbow makes great sounding speakers as well.

that doesnt look like a trunk car

you will have to find a way to get 15"s and seal off the trunk. cant let any of that air escape a flapping trunk lid. but i dont believe you could ever fit a pair of 15"s and a port on the face of a box in the trunk. maybe subs forward sealed off with a big ass port through the rear deck. i think that would be your best chance. look at any car doing stupid crazy hairtricks. they arnt daily drivers with back seats. they have been made into bass machines. very loud is very possible in the trunk but the kind of hairtrick you want... i think itll take more than you want to do to that car.

i dont believe hes asking about 2 different amps. hes asking how he should run his amp. i say it depends on the ohm loads and what the amp can handle.

i agree. youll probably drop to 13v. perfectly acceptable.

what ohm load? is this the only battery or do you have one under the hood as well? if its a second battery, at 1ohm, you should be ok. .5ohm and you may want another battery.

x2 Matt is great. DC was better but absolutely nothing bad about mechman.

wouldnt the car seat be pretty easy to take out? at least easier than a sub box? ive never had to do that lol. i have seen a SQ car with a 15" sub under the spare tire. not sure what he did for an enclosure. it wasnt meant to get loud at all though. if you wanted to do something like that you would need to cut the floor and make a fiberglass box under the car. a hell of a lot of work for bass. the bright side being it would look completely stock unless you look under the car. the next easiest solution i can think of would be to make a false floor that the box will attach to/be a part of. on the back, next to the seats, you have a big hinge. now you can lift the box up far enough to get to the spare tire. you could even make it all downfire with openings of grill cloth in the false floor to let the sound back up. this way you dont need a removable top and no one can see what you have. and to hold the box up you could go simple with some wood stands or you could do shocks and not have to lift all that weight. OR, duct tape the spare tire under the car, on the roof, on the hood, wherever you think looks best