skittlesRgood

ditch the sony HU. those mids will have no midbass. the tweeters will probably sound harsh. try to get a 1" tweeter. i dont personally like metal domes but thats up to you.

Yea they just dont sound that great... they lack low end reponse My headunit distorts at like 41 out of 62??? WHY and is amplifier power alot better than headunit power? hmmm... 15w hu power or 50-200w amp power... lower frequencies require a little more power but it could just be your coaxials dont play very low. got this in the doors http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17789_Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-P1S652.html whenever you see a small tweeter like that one you can probably assume it will be harsh/bright. you can run active but only a HPF or subsonic filter will do any good and your amp will already have that ability. remember and active crossover is any filter set before amplification. so the HU, processor, and amp can be an active crossover. passive is after amplification. just deadening the doors isnt what really helps midbass, its sealing the big holes in the inner skin. but if the speaker isnt getting enough power to really produce the misbass then doing anything to the doors wont suddenly make the speaker play those frequencies. a decoupler is used to eliminate the back wave so it doesnt just head straight back to the speaker. the frequencies that will benefit from this depends on how much space there is between the speaker and the outer door skin. the back wave can boost some frequencies, cancel others, and cause distortion in others. although the distortion is fairly hard to hear and people not into sq generally wont hear it, notice it, or know what it is to identify it. but closed cell foam works for doing this. i used closed cell weather stripping and attached it with some good spray adhesive.

Yea they just dont sound that great... they lack low end reponse My headunit distorts at like 41 out of 62??? WHY and is amplifier power alot better than headunit power? hmmm... 15w hu power or 50-200w amp power... lower frequencies require a little more power but it could just be your coaxials dont play very low.

i dont see any point in going active with coaxials. it sounds like the thing you need is an EQ, but crossover or EQ, you will need to be running an amp.

im going to disagree with skippy. that amp has some great crossovers and it will be able to do your filtering. channel 3/4 has a bandpass option where you set the subsonic and lowpass filter. and channel 1/2's HPF goes all the way up to 4500hz. you wont be winning any SQ comps but it will work just fine as a crossover. as for time alignment... ya that will need a processor and that will cost a good amount plus they are much more complicated to tune. but you will have more crossover options, time alignment, and an EQ. back speakers, put in some decent coaxials if you really want some noise back there. just use it as some rear fill, they dont need to be on very loud at all. and at the low volume they should sound decent.

how else do you do it? take the sub apart and wire inside the sub? it doesnt matter if you do it AT the sub or not. the wires go to the same place. OP, it doesnt matter how its supposed to be wired, we all make mistakes. just double check that everything is wired correctly.

thanks DICK didnt know it was as simple as the area of a sqare i wasnt sure if it was just the opening or the entire port im new to boxes other than simple ass slot port and using the shitty RE box calc trying to do it right lol you're asking a "dumbass" question thats honestly, embarrassingly easy. the others pointed out that its dumb but didnt answer. i actually answered your question but IM the dick? lol ok buddy. welcome to the internet, learn to take a little flack.

someone that actually took my advice! its amazing!

umm... math... height x width... didnt take geometry in school? cant type "how to find the area of a square" into google?

im getting the readings from the amp and the remote and no i dont get the voltage drop at the amp when the amp is unhooked when the amp is off i get a perfect 14v amp AND remote, ok that doesnt answer the question. i need to know if the voltage being measured is basically the battery voltage or the remote voltage.

a simple google search reveled jvc's website where they have the remote you listed. your HU is not in its list of compatible units. i would imagine more searching of that type on your own could find the correct remote. or perhaps a call or email to JVC.

where are you measuring voltage? amp + and - or are you measuring the remote voltage? does voltage still drop randomly with the amp unhooked?

thats good but what about how they are wired inside the box?

something is probably wired wrong.

but... you told me it would make me louder Uh, liquid cooled coils? The DC Level 10 has them. I guess you guys are just noooooobs. no, thats the level 8. the level 10 has a halon system

but... you told me it would make me louder

i think mine only came with one... maybe you could put the two on top to lock each other in place. but think about it, why put something in between the two? the best connection would be the fuse and terminal touching each other. anything in between would just lower the surface area of the connection.

lucky. im paying 3.85-3.93 for the cheap stuff.

bingo. put them against each other. thats the only thing that sticks out as wrong so it must be it.

depending on the foam, it can be conductive. is the fuse and ring terminal against each other or is there something like a washer in between?

is the goop touching the terminal on the underside? maybe its slightly conductive?

very good pay for your age. congrats.

you dont have to use accelerator. letting the glue dry naturally always seemed to me to make a better bond. not that that matters, ive never seen glue hit with accelerator fail on a subwoofer. use the ca glue or rubber glue on the surround. it really wont matter. ive used both. ca is more common.

damn, then every amp ive ever used must have a shitty connection. think about it.