lanman31337

No, the alternator does. The frame is just a conductor for a ground. Same with the body. You need your best connections at the two things that supply your vehicle engergy, your alternator and your battery. Battery is attached to the motor, and where does everything go to? The battery.

So your frame is going to start and run your car?

Battery without a doubt. If you ground it to the frame, where does it still need to go? The battery. Remove the battery, and the frame is useless.

It will work, but like Nate said, baby jesus is going to cry.

I'm an Omega installer, hence the second link

http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=...tingid=46212010 May i suggest something else for a remote start Nate? http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=...tingid=44920042

http://cgi.ebay.com/AUDIOPIPE-3000W-AMP-1-...id=p3286.c0.m14 That's who Newls1 and myself got them from. Mine will be in Monday.

I just picked up two of them, total was like 612 shipped.

Tell him the AP30001D. It'll do 3000@ 2 ohm. If his goal is the 4 15's, and will be a 2 ohm final load, go that route. It's around 300 bucks.

What's your buddy's budget?

It doesn't do rated. It does about 2/3's rated, around 2300 watts on a good day.

I think he might. You can find the 1500's for around 144ish shipped per.

Mine are going somewhere in the trunk of my Sunfire, should have pics when the little guys come in.

You going to flip the amps around to show the sexiness of the guts?

I might do a plexi cover and some fans on them. It all depends on where I'm going to place them. How bad was the wiring? Bad solder joints internally?

First off, thank you to those who have been posting about the audiopipe amps. I bought two of them from the same seller he'd been mentioning, and did some cash back. 612 shipped, plus 47 dollars cash back. Can't wait to get the AP30001Ds hooked up! Now I gotta change me sig.

Look at the regulator and tell me what letters are on the 244. You could probably do a .250 female spade connector on them if it's what I think it is.

I'm going to question some things. First, 1000 watts is 1000 watts is 1000 watts. Now 4 15s is going to have slightly more cone area, and cone area usually adds to SPL, but your first statement is false. Type of box, tuning, type of sub, variable factors might come in to play, but a box for 2 18s and a box for 4 15s, both tuned at the same should be slightly louder on the 15s. Second one I can go with. Third one I have to question as well. First you say the 4 15s have a huge amount of bass, but then this statement you say 2 18s are louder. Again, technically the 15s should be louder because of cone area.

Can you see the hard drives in BIOS? It's usually f1, f2, or delete to get into bios. Any splash screens, any error messages?

Thoughts and prayers to your little boy. One good thing about kids is their willpower and ability to fight off sicknesses.

I've found with larger gauge wire that my tank that I use for doing soldering for plumbing works well. I also use MAP gas, which makes things much quicker. It's a hotter burning gas.

There was a guy on the ROE forum that had some Kinetics just about explode and melt. He was running higher voltages to them (15 volts I want to say)

Don't run them at higher charging voltage for long periods of time. They'll sizzle and hiss at ya!

You're not really hurting them, just not conditioning them the best they can. Shumacher makes a fairly inexpensive charger that you can select wet acid, agm, or sla on it.

You have mail.