Superjay

dude, really, where are you? if you're close to me PLEASE let me look at it. If you're not PLEASE let me send you somewhere to have it checked...PLEASE!!! I hate hearing about this kind of thing...your next thread will most likely be "so my car burned to the ground today..."

unless you're playing sine waves the sub won't see that much power except in transients. from a 10kW amp, playing music, evven bass heavy music, you may average 2500watts

at 13 volts it will do a steady 3500 watts. it will be stable under 0.4-ohm under 12 volts the amp will get very hot and inefficient.

retail on that amp was $1995. You should be able to find it for about a grand right now. PB still has them in stock. with 18v at 1-ohm it will produce about 5800 watts 15v at 1-ohm it will produce about5100 watts 15v at 0.7-ohm it will produce about 5300 watts 14.4v it is stable to 0.41-ohm daily

I used to be the Technical Director at PB...what do you need to know?

I think you need better batteries. Also, since you don't have your batteries isolated they should all be the same brand and size. Look at XS from Powermaster. your stocker alt is 112amp. Upgrading MAY help, but most likely your stocker is going to produce more amps at idle than an aftermarket. this will affect vehicle performance. Look at specs at different RPM to be sure the aftermarket model will produce enough current below 1000rpm.

put the tools down and step away from the vehicle...

think of it like this...in series you add voltage...in parallel you add amperage.

call me. I'd like to set something up. I have a new NorCal rep I'm signing on, and I'd like to talk to you about a few things

Bill, you going to make it this year?

generically saying "a pair of 18's needs this much space" is kind of ignorant. It depends on WHAT 18's...what are the specs on THAT sub? I've seen (and designed) subs for many different applications. example: how many here have seen a 12 that only needs a cube? how about a 12 that needs 8 cubes? probably both. I think his space limitations are going to dictate exactly which subs he can use, depending on how many he wants, and what he wants to do with them. Look at the port length on Andrew McCain's van...4 18's and the port is only 6 inches long. granted, it's also 18"x49" in area, blanket statements, like are being made, too easily confuse kids who are new to the game.

for a wall like you're talking you're going to spend a few hundred dollars on birch alone. don't do this half-assed. save up, do it ONCE and do it RIGHT...if you put something in "for now" you're only throwing money away. If you don't have any self control (or find a smolin' deal) buy the system a few pieces at a time. Store the pieces away in a closet. don't buy your wood until you're ready to build (it WILL warp sitting in your garage). start with sound damping, install this first...all of it. next run wires...all of them next build stuff next make cover panels install the system the only thing that can possibly be changed in this order is the wiring and building may be swapped...everything else needs to be done in order or you'll just end up spending extra money.

a thousand times...THIS

blondie has nice tits...with my wife in her 30's I have learned to really appreciate when younger enthusiasts are kind enough to share their girlfriends' funbags with the rest of us.. Is Rusty making a DC Dustcap bikini anytime soon?

you won't notice it anyway. Since impedance rises pretty sharply at resonance (both port resonance and sub resonance) but SPL also increases at both resonant frequencies it should not matter at all to you.

it's yours, man...sig it

they work best in a large enclosure...like a dumpster

older 3 series...you can fit 15's in there. you can also find them in good condition for under $5k.

It would be really nice if, just for once, somebody used the proper term... IMPEDANCE!!!