SQMonte

np Meade, thanks for hooking me up. Its nice not having to guess where your xover/gain/ssf are set anymore.

All these years I've had no other way to set my xover and infrasonic filters than by ear, until today. I bought one the first week it was released and just used it today for the first time. I went ahead and set everything by ear to get used to how everything sounded when I first installed my current setup but used the DD-1 and CC-1 today to dial it in perfectly. As usual it was pretty easy to do....huge difference in output with everything set right. When I set my gain I used a dmm and set it lower than it should have been since I didnt have the electrical to back it up, but now that I have all 0ga., Singer h/o alt and secondary battery in the trunk it was time to let the beast out of my sub amp. Good thing I have 2 selectable sub profiles in my deck cause once my volume goes up past 5 in sub 2 the bass drowns out the mids/highs pretty badly, but in sub 1 its the perfect blend. And I have no need to turn my sub level up at all, it stays on 0/15. Now its time to see what this 3512 can do!

+1 for Singer I've had mine in for a few weeks now and love it. Mike's customer service is second to none, his alts have a lifetime warranty and his turnaround time is what he tells you it is! I had a minor speedbump with the alt I got from him....my car used two different alts during manufacturing, I had the Bosch style instead of the Delco style. When I spoke to Mike on the phone about getting an alt from him he didn't make any mention of the two different styles (and I didn't know about it at the time) so when I got my alt I noticed a few differences. Delco style - power lug on back face, connector vertical Bosch style - connector on back face, power lug vertical Not only that but a longer bolt is needed for the Delco style. So I contacted Mike to make sure I was good to go to use this style alt and he got back to me a short time later, after doing some research. He assured me I would be fine to use this style alt but didn't pressure me to use it, he even went so far as offering a full refund, including return shipping, if I was not comfortable in any way using it. He also offered to rebuild my burnt out factory alt for the cost of parts. And did I mention his alts are more affordable than the others mentioned above?

Sick setup so far Meade, box is coming along nicely. Cant wait to see what custom sickness Mechman comes up with for your alt.

Perfect! Thanks

Just wondering if anybody knows the dimensions of these? I just need the height and width. Thanks

It's a gain knob. Huge difference.....gain knob is just lets you remotely adjust the gain UP TO THE POINT THE GAIN IS SET ON THE AMP. So if your gain is set to halfway, your knob will only be functional to that point, beyond that point it won't do anything. I can't imagine your gain needing to be set that high, unless you're running a stock deck or something....I'd try to meet up with someone who has a DD-1 and have them set your gain right, you can turn your gain knob up as high as you want, won't make a difference if your gain is set right.

That white outline....is that all the material you're gonna hack off?

The instructions don't specify where the sub level should be set on the head unit. So what I did is set mine to 10/15, knowing I'd never take it up past 5/15. Not sure if thats the best way to do it though so im hoping for some clarification.

Either way you go, start out with a polish first rather than a compound. It's always easier to take more material off than it is to put it back on.

Wait, so you polish, wax, wax again, wash then clay? Say it aint so

I like how you completely ignored the "speed" part of my comment, LoL. I've been detailing for about 2 decades, many products claimed they could but none have been able to deliver on the promise of significant paint correction by hand. And the one's that did give some type of correction had their "correction" washed away after a few washes since they contained fillers which do more hiding the swirls than correcting them. If someone didn't have any experience, i'm thinking a product that chemically burns the clear coat isn't the best choice for him/her, but that's just me. You're right, a cleaner wax will make your paint shine.....Why is that? Because the "cleaner" part of it is a polish Most hand applied polishes/compounds use fillers simply because correction can only be achieved with the speed and heat generated by machines, random orbital and rotary. But if you don't believe me, next time you're doing up a car do a quick wipe down in an area you just "corrected" via compound or polish by hand using a 50/50 mix of isopropyl alcohol and water and then shine a bright halogen light on the area and see how much "correction" all that work actually got you

What I don't understand is how any supposed "detailer" (professional or hobbyist) could make a recommendation on what product is needed to get the results wanted WITHOUT KNOWING OR SEEING THE CONDITION OF THE PAINT. Not only that, but not all paint/clear coat is created equal...some clear coats are harder than others and require more aggressive product and possibly a machine as well. If her car has swirls as bad as you're saying, the best you could possibly do by hand is fill them in for a little while. Removing them requires removing some of the clear coat itself, essentially sanding it away so the scratch (aka swirl marks) in it disappears. You simply can't generate the kind of speed and heat needed to break down the abrasives found in corrective products like compounds/polish/cleaner waxes that will allow them to not only remove the material needed to get rid of the existing swirl marks, but to also prevent formation of new one's due to not being able to break them down. I'm not saying you can't make your/her car look good by hand, but trust me when I tell you that you aren't removing any heavy swirls by hand. And whatever you do, don't use products intended for use with a machine (Machine Glaze) by hand. So, can't really tell you what you should use but I can answer your initial questions as to the difference between the things listed in the thread title Waxing - Waxing is the act of applying a wax aka LSP (Last step product) to your vehicle. The job of a wax is to protect the paint from UV rays and lock in the shine. Wax should NOT give your paint it's shine, if that's what you're using it for or expecting it to do then you aren't doing it right. Polishing - The act of applying a polish to your vehicle. This should be done before your apply the wax. Polishing, depending on how abrasive it is, corrects imperfections in your paint like swirl marks, water spots, etc. Polishing levels out the surface of your paint/clear coat, which enhances it's depth and shine and gives an optimum surface for the wax to bond to. Buffing - Pretty much the same thing as polishing but more a description of the physical act rather than the type of product being used.

Good job on those doors!

+1 for Singer Alt

I've had them on my car for almost 2 years now -first thing in the morning, they're squeaky...they have to warm up a bit before quieting down, like a stop or two. -even after warming they seem a bit noisy to me, I can hear a whirring kind of sound which gets amplified when i'm driving next to a curb or between buildings, next to a wall Aside from these minor annoyances i'm happy with the purchase....and for the price, can't be beat!

I use PowerAmp Pro, it's been my favorite so far. But damn, that n7 player is looking pretty nice.

I run a custom rom on my Atrix 2 that has excellent memory management

You said you can't edit the tags of the mp3's from Datpiff, I just posted a screenshot showing you that they can, as indicated by the highlighted line I had edited.

In that screenshot I only edited the tags for the first song....I don't know what tag editor you use but MP3Tag is the shit!

I download from Datpiff all the time and never have an issue editing the tags or playing them on my iPod.

Def not the second one since it's for a single sub