canderton01

With your budget, I'd look into getting a single XL 15'' and pairing it with an AQ2200 or a DC 2k for specific prices on DC equipment, PM CJ18 or dwright27

Honestly, the fact that you bought a level 3 off craigslist from some dude who lied and said it was a level 4, and he added his own leads sounds kinda shady to me. If I were you I'd probably sell the level 3 and look into getting a pair of XL 12's or 15's. I think that those would be more in your price range, and many will tell you that the XL's actually sound better than the level 5's on lower power(under 2k rms per sub). Also, it's not going to be that hard to be louder your old kicker comps lol.

If you've got the coin then go with the level 5's. They should be substantially louder than 1 level 3 15. You'll need a stout electrical system though because with that setup you'll want to start pushing some serious power. Also, you considered the XL's?

If in a proper box then yes, 2 15"' BL's would be louder due to more cone area.

"1000 watt" Xplod subs are best matched with "1000 watt" Xplod amps

so your expecting Monster to possibly sponsor you just because you're slapping their logo on your box?

If you've got a radioshack in your area check them out as well. I've got some 16 gauge that I got from there and it's pretty thick for what it is. Dirt cheap too.

1 BTL 15'' in a nice box tuned to like 35Hz on 2kW would slap, you could always go that route...

I would think that a high-end car like an S500 benz would have a pretty beefy stock alt, just do the big 3 with the biggest XS power batt you can fit under the hood and go from there. I think you could do 2 BL 12's on something like an AQ2200 and maybe an extra batt in the trunk. I wouldn't do the BTL's though.

For those talking about the new Supra, supposedly in 2012 Toyota will finally release the FT-86 which is a 2dr RWD coupe that will come with a 6-speed manual transmission and a 4cyl Subaru boxer engine making around 200-250HP. The price is supposed to be between $20-25k. It obviously won't be a supercar like the LFA, but it's going back to Toyota's roots of being an affordable, fun car to drive.

I'm in nashville, I'd be down to meet up sometime over the summer if you wanted to meet like half way or something. gas is so damn expensive..

lol and then in the comments he says "ill eventually upgrade to 2 10 inch and 2 twelve inch kicker comps", oh and apparently the car isn't even his, its his dads, he just decided to hook up that shitty ass system for fun lol

Price range?

haha damn this thread is out of control You guys think your schools are small.. my graduating class was only around 130. At least we were up to date with technology though. All of our computers ran Windows 7. private school ftw

^^ agree, an AQ1200 would be more than adequate for a single HDC to get down. People need to stop having the mentality that you need to have an amp with 2-3x the RMS that your sub is rated. Yes headroom is nice but it's not necessary. To the OP, if you have a decent amount of room in your ride, I'd do 2 SDC 12's.

I hate to thread jack but I figured I ask on here instead of making a new one. Can anyone verify if summitracing.com is a legit place to buy XS batteries? I've seen some on the cheap over there but idk if they're a verified dealer or whatever?

I'll just reiterate what others have said. I'm running my AQ1200 @ 1 ohm on completely stock electrical in my Camry (8O amp alt, small interstate battery) and all I've done is the big 3 and my voltage rarely dips below the low-13's. Even before I did the big 3 I never had a problem. They are extremely efficient amps. As for an audible difference between your Alpine and the AQ, you might hear a slight audible difference but nothing major. ~250 watts isn't a big difference. But the AQ would still be a good investment should you ever upgrade. Then you can wire it to 1 Ohm where it will really shine.

Just go with an Audiopipe 3000 if you're wanting to stay on the cheap. It'll do rated at 2 Ohm and you can find them for under $400 shipped.

You can't get a final load of 2 ohm with a d2 sub. You can only wire to 1 or 4 ohm. You'd need a d1 or d4 sub to wire to 2 ohm.

Here everyone is going to recommend XS power. They are some of the best AGM batteries on the market. Get the biggest you can fit under your hood, do the big 3 upgrade if you haven't already, and you should be good to go. EDIT: Also, the whole AQ vs Alpine argument is pretty stupid here. Both are good brands, and the Alpine amp would be better for the OP since he will have a final impedance of 2 ohm. At the same time, I'd never run an alpine at 1 ohm. AQ's can handle crazy low impedances on stout electrical systems. /rant.

Damn, I didn't even notice the wait time on the Q. Not to start a nuthugger fest, but if I were in your position right now and I didn't want to wait at least a month for a sub, I'd probably go with a DC lvl 4, and this is coming from the owner of a Fi Q15

It's not a BTL or an SMD, but the Q series is notorious for belting out the low lows and being musical, plus it can still get pretty damn loud. In short it is a damn good woofer and yes it does hit lol But if you're saving up for a Q, be sure to get a decent amp to match.

AQ2200

My setup is really similar to what yours could be. I'm running a Q15 on an AQ1200 @ 1 ohm in a 3.8cu ft box tuned to 32hz. The only option I got on mine was the extra spider. And yes the Q will take on every bit of the AQ no problem. The newer Q's are beasts.

I've got audio technix and it's a damn good product. I say go with it now before they raise the prices again (may 15 i believe)